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Gucci paves the way for renewed interest in ​Milan Fashion Week ​

By Vivian Hendriksz

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Fashion

London - Following London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week takes on the baton for the global fashion showcase, running from September 21 to 26. However this edition of Milan Fashion Week signals a changing tide as Gucci paves the way for renewed interest and attention not only to MFW, but for Italian fashion as well.

This season of fashion week sees a number of new designers, as well as returning and celebrated designers taking to the catwalks to showcase their Spring/Summer 2017 collections. One of the most anticipated shows of the week was that from luxury fashion house Gucci, who staged their SS 17 show Wednesday afternoon at Via Valtellina, the former train depot once more.

Creative director Alessandro Michele unveiled perhaps his most eclectic collection to date during a pink-sequinned show, which featured Michele trademark 'granny-chic' aesthetic, wild animal motifs and courtesan boudoir and 70s references throughout. Since his appointment at Gucci early last year, Michele has been credited with reviving the brand's fortunes and transforming the lagging fashion house vision into one which buyers, press, and customers around the world continue to praise each season.

Milan Fashion Week and Italian fashion continue to thrive under renewed focus

Peaked interest in Gucci has also lead the way for other upcoming designers to gain their spot in the spotlight. "The energy is changing and the press are in Milan," said Marco de Vincenzo, founder of his eponymous label in an interview with BoF. "They are waiting for something new, even during our fashion week. Because for a long time nobody was interested in Milan, except to watch the shows of Prada, Gucci and Fendi."

For example, Wunderkind, the diffusion line from German designer Wolfgang Joop, held its Milan Fashion Week debut early Wednesday as one of the three MFW debutants. Other newcomers to the official show schedule include Chinese label Ricostru, the latest designer brand to receive support from veteran Italian designer Giorgio Armani. Founded by Cico Manchit Au, the designer is set to present his SS17 collection during a fashion show at the Armani/Teatro on Monday, the last day of MFW.

Another change to Milan Fashion Week sees the last day reserved for shows from up and coming designers, as Armani, who previously presented his main collection on the last day of MFW is set to host his show on Friday. While some worry that most buyers and press will leave the city a day early, following Dolce & Gabbana's show Sunday afternoon, to head to Paris for the start of its fashion week, industry insiders are not concerned.

"I have a very high regard for young designers and I think it is right that we have a day just for them," said Carlo Capasa, the head of Italy's Chamber of Fashion, to reporters during a press conference on Wednesday said AFP. 71 shows are officially listed on MFW schedule, in addition to several off calendar shows, such as D&G's show on Sunday as well as 90 presentations. Although this is slightly less than the number of events which took place last season, Italy Chamber of Fashion is hosting a number of initiatives across the city as well , such a store opening and exhibitions.

The presence of Italian Prime Minister Matteo Renzi at the opening of Milan Fashion Week also affirmed the country's and the chamber's renewed focus on its fashion industry. During a lunch held on Wednesday, Renzi told attendees that the government was going to start working on promoting and investing in its fashion market and industries. "We will do a lot, and we will do it together, but what I ask you is to give us a hand to allow our country to discover a 'Made in Italy' that is at least as fascinating as that of your productions.," said the Prime Minister.

"The 'Made in Italy' we need is the 'Made in Italy' made up of values, culture, ideals, passion … those that underlie the artisans who make your extraordinary works...but also those that are at the basis of our feeling a united people. For this reason I say that the government is ready to do a lot for fashion and for your industry, but I ask you to give us a hand, all together, to make Italy – in Europe, among the G7 and in the world go back to being what it should be ."

Photos: Gucci SS17

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