What can we expect from Hedi Slimane and Céline’s new menswear?

News broke over the weekend that Hedi Slimane, former creative director at Saint Laurent Paris, would be joining LVMH-owned fashion house Céline, where the designer would be introducing a menswear line, as well as couture and fragrance.

Starting February 1, Slimane will take over from Phoebe Philo, who announced she would be leaving the French brand after its autumn/winter 2018 collection in March, and as artistic, creative and image director of Céline, Slimane will have complete control of the brand's creative and images as well oversee all new brand launches and design all the new stores.

LVMH chairman, Bernard Arnault said: “I am particularly happy that Hedi is back within the LVMH Group and taking the reins of our Céline Maison. He is one of the most talented designers of our time. I have been a great admirer of his work since we collaborated on Dior Homme, which he launched to global critical acclaim in the 2000s.

“His arrival at Céline reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this Maison. Hedi will oversee and develop all creativity for both women’s and men’s fashion, but also for leather goods, accessories and fragrances. He will leverage his global vision and unique aesthetic virtuosity in further building an iconic French Maison.”

Céline names Hedi Slimane as artistic, creative and image director

The move will see Slimane returning to the LVMH family, from 2000-2007 he was the luxury group’s designer for Dior Homme, where he pioneered the super skinny, all-black look across menswear. He will also be reunited with Sidney Toledano, who led Dior through its global expansion and is now overseeing the LVMH Fashion Group’s brand portfolio.

Toledano added: “Hedi Slimane is an exceptional designer, complete artist and passionate about his work. I am certain that he will bring his renowned creative energy and discipline to lead Céline to ever greater success.”

There has been much speculation as to where Slimane would land following his departure from Saint Laurent Paris suddenly in April 2016, following reports of a disagreement with François Henri Pinault, chairman of Kering, which owns Yves Saint Laurent.

Apparently it has taken LVMH nearly two years to sign Slimane, and it may possibly have been the challenge of expanding Céline beyond womenswear that attracted him to the role. Slimane is known for his transformation abilities, he turned around sales at Saint Laurent during his three-year tenure, and it is hoped that he can boost the French label in the wake of Philo’s departure, after the British designer was such an influential force in turning the label into a fashion must-have over the past decade.

Philo and her minimalistic, androgynous clothes have made Céline the go-to label for fashion editors and customers searching for menswear-inspired staples, and understated bags like the successful Trapeze bag. It’s the label’s reputation for its grown-up fashion for intellectual women that may be the most interesting development, and seeing how its core customers react to Slimane and his rock ‘n’ roll, grungy vibe, as seen at Saint Laurent Paris.

When it comes to menswear, Slimane does have one advantage, Philo’s collections had already spurred interest across the menswear community with her designs being so popular that men were often seen buying her voluminous shirts. It will be interesting to see if the brand continues its low-key androgyny across the menswear offering, it seems slightly wrong to think that a Céline menswear collection wouldn’t have wide-leg trousers, wearable basics, immaculately tailored, slouchy suits, and statement leather accessories.

Céline to expand into menswear, couture and fragrances

The expansion of the brand away from womenswear into menswear, couture and fragrances is a major turning point for the French fashion house, one which will see it competing with iconic brands such as Chanel and Dior, and LVMH states that Slimane is the right person to make the transition.

“His remarkable ability to anticipate and express in a unique way the evolutions and desires of his age, will ensure a further era of exceptional growth and development for this famous Maison,” said LVMH in a press statement.

Commenting on the challenge, Slimane added: “I am delighted to join Bernard Arnault in this all-embracing and fascinating mission for Céline. I greatly look forward to returning to the exciting world of fashion and the dynamism of the ateliers."

We have to wait until September to see what Slimane’s vision is for Céline, where he will show the first men’s collection as part of a combined men’s and women’s show. Slimane will also continue to be based in Los Angeles and will work with the house’s London-based studio and Paris atelier.

Images: Dior image credit: Pierre Verdy / AFP; Saint Laurent: Hendrik Ballhausen / DPA / AFP; Portrait credit: LVMH website, © Y.R.