At Scoop, Printemps buyers talk balancing creativity and commercialty in fashion retail

Within Scoop’s new Fireside Chat programme, buyers shared insights into the inner workings of their evolving roles among leading fashion retailers. The schedule was a newly introduced feature for the trade show’s February 2026, intended to expand the event beyond simply serving as a buying platform to encourage reflection and meaningful industry connection.

On the programme was a discussion with Printemps buyers Kimberly Hugonnet and Mathilde Vanini who, alongside explaining the importance of controlling newness, underlined the necessity of balancing creativity and commerciality.

Tackling a wide-spanning consumer base

Hugonnet, who has previously worked in the buying department of US chain Macy’s, oversees Printemps’ pop-up experiences, both in its flagships and beyond. She also holds responsibility for the retailer’s multibrand space in its flagship store, which largely encapsulates the ‘Quiet Luxury’ trend. Vanini similarly wears a few hats, overseeing a number of different corners in the store, as well as a space called The Market that targets younger consumers.

Their differing responsibilities are reflected on the shop floor, where each category and area demand a varying approach. Vanini’s client is much younger than Hugonnet’s, so though the duo occasionally find areas where their responsibilities may overlap, allowing them to make appointments with brands together or share in consumer insights, this isn’t always the case.

Challenges also come in developing collections for a consumer demographic that is almost evenly split between domestic and international shoppers, meaning a brand’s performance may fluctuate depending on whether there is an influx of tourists to the city during a particular season. What is important is that they as buyers find the integral balance between creativity and commerciality.

“It has to be a mix, you need strong commercial foundations, but you also need instinct and special pieces,” Hugonnet said. “If you buy too commercially, you’ll find the same product everywhere. The key is understanding who your client is and creating value through uniqueness, quality and longevity.”

Controlling newness and addressing cautious consumers

Another key factor is controlling newness in collections. In Printemps’ multibranded spaces, Hugonnet ensures around 30 percent fresh stock each season, while more broadly, in generic spaces, it sits at around 40 percent. Such a setup ensures closer proximity and flexibility to trends and emerging brands, while also retaining consistency for the customer.

This reliability flows into the trends Hugonnet and Vanini highlighted for the coming autumn/winter season, defined by a continuation of chocolate brown, the minimalist aesthetic, and wide-legged pant silhouettes. Elsewhere, the duo point at a rising prominence of faux fur, which is being introduced through vests and jackets, and slim leg or oversized pants, each of which are slowly gaining popularity.

In terms of designers, Hugonnet said she was eyeing Spanish designers that have been emerging recently with a “unique sense of creativity and styling”. She specifically named Paloma Wool, which encapsulates this exciting area of design for her. Vanini, meanwhile, highlighted Scandinavian or Northern European brands that are performing well on social media and have an ideal quality-price ratio. “This is important to us because our customers have the means, but they’re being a bit cautious about how they spend today,” Vanini noted.