Crowds, newcomers and transformations: This was the AW25 trade fair season in Europe

In recent weeks, the fashion industry has had the opportunity to learn about new trends and get a sneak peek of AW25 collections at European trade shows. Amid the ever-changing world of fashion, trade shows are also adapting, making for an interesting ordering season.

Are you curious about how the European AW25 trade show season went? FashionUnited summarises the insights from the visited trade shows in chronological order, and dives into the show statistics for you.

Pitti Uomo, Italy

For its 107th edition, Pitti Uomo transformed into a showcase. Brands with a solid financial foundation, in particular, took advantage of the opportunity to secure mega booths. The booths of Brunello Cucinelli and Stefano Ricci, for example, attracted a lot of attention within the Fortezza da Basso in Florence. In addition to brands trying to steal the spotlight with large booths, the denim offering at the show was significantly expanded, and more sneaker brands appeared on the exhibition grounds.

"As I walked through the halls and aisles, I noticed that the exhibitors were very satisfied," shared Agostino Poletto, general director of Pitti Immagine, after the end of the fair. "This is not only due to the quantity and quality of the buyers, but also to the identity of the show as a global platform for exchange and as an irreplaceable communication channel, especially in this critical moment of the sales season. I also appreciate that many exhibitors spoke in terms of the broader system, rather than just focusing on individual companies. There is a sense of solidarity that I have rarely felt so strongly."

Read FashionUnited’s Pitti Uomo fair report here.

Who’s Next, France

At the Parisian trade show Who’s Next, increased collaboration between young brands and established players in the French fashion industry stood out. This is also one of the reasons for an expansion of the show's offerings. Organiser WSN Développement expanded the offerings to include sourcing and design. Thanks to this, the show in January featured 1,150 brands, according to subsequently released figures. At Who’s Next, FashionUnited heard that the diverse offerings fostered contact and led to more conversations between players of different generations. The organiser also looked back on an edition full of cohesion, solidarity, and resilience.

"As we walked through the aisles, it was clear that creativity is our strongest asset," said WSN. "All exhibitors are driven by common challenges: to sustain their businesses and give confidence to their markets. The fashion industry is changing rapidly, and we are proud to be able to bring all the factors together at such an international and essential physical event. Buyers come here not only to be inspired, but above all to place orders and shape the future of their businesses."

Read FashionUnited’s Who’s Next fair report here.

Modefabriek, the Netherlands

This season, Modefabriek chose a completely new approach. The Dutch trade show moved to a new location – the Expo Greater Amsterdam in Vijfhuizen – and opted for a new concept with a "department store" layout. The new concept also included previous elements, such as the trend forum, Spotlight, and The Fashion Gallery.

From the moment Modefabriek announced its renewal plans, there was a spark of curiosity. On the trade show weekend of January 26 and 27, the conclusion was quickly drawn that the new location and concept were a success: Retailers were enthusiastic about the accessibility of the location and the concept. Exhibitors also praised the January edition for the fresh restart, while some had concerns about the "confusing" layout.

Read FashionUnited’s Modefabriek fair report here.

Shift, the Netherlands

The Dutch trade show landscape also welcomed a newcomer this year: Shift. The menswear trade show was founded by the co-founders of Modefabriek and Denim Days, Lucel van den Hoeven and Rick van Rijthoven, and is based at the "Taets Art and Event Park" venue in Zaandam. The organisers stated, upon announcing the event, that they would host a "raw, pure" trade show with a focus on closing deals.

On the trade show weekend, coinciding with Modefabriek, it quickly became apparent that there was a cozy atmosphere. The robust industrial hall was reminiscent of the Øksnehallen in Copenhagen, where the CPH and Revolver trade shows used to take place, and the booth layout was reminiscent of the Preview trade shows – all exhibitors were equipped with identical metal shelves, on which the brand name was displayed on a red sign. The first Shift edition was quiet, but ensured quality over quantity.

CIFF, Denmark

While the booths at Modefabriek and Shift were being dismantled, CIFF opened its doors at the Bella Center in Copenhagen. For its 64th edition, the Danish fashion trade show, which serves as a cornerstone of the Northern European fashion industry, shifted its dates for the first time to January 28 to 30, making Tuesday the official opening day and Friday no longer part of the programme. This was intended to strengthen collaboration with Copenhagen Fashion Week.

CIFF hosted nearly 1,200 brands, with the third iteration of a collaboration with Neudeutsch (which hosted 40 German labels) playing a major role. The Neudeutsch platform served as a haven of peace on the exhibition grounds, reminiscent of a mix of department store, concept store, and community space.

Read FashionUnited’s CIFF fair report here.

Mandatory CPH, Denmark

The Danish fashion industry has also hosted a new fashion trade show since June 2024: Mandatory CPH. The event aims to provide an answer to the changing needs of the industry and presents itself as a more intimate, cost-efficient, and time-saving alternative to large trade shows. Mandatory focuses on quality over quantity – both in terms of exhibitors and visitors, as FashionUnited observed at the show grounds in January.

The young trade show presented 200 brands and focused on the atmosphere of a concept store instead of a conventional trade show format. The 5,000-square-metre area was structured by brand islands, creating an open and relaxed ambiance. Business was brisk on the exhibition grounds early in the morning.

Read FashionUnited’s CIFF fair report here.

IFCO, Turkey

Turkey is a serious competitor for major garment industry producers like Bangladesh and China. The textile country focuses on quality and has been able to defend its position for years, but also struggles with challenges such as high inflation and the aftermath of the 2023 earthquakes. The Istanbul Fashion Connection (IFCO) trade show, whose seventh edition took place in February, aims to promote the worldwide export of quality clothing.

The trade show celebrated its third anniversary this year and focused on internationalisation, paid special attention to young design talents, and expanded the children's fashion offerings on the exhibition grounds. The Expo Center in Istanbul transformed into a fashion epicenter with 513 exhibitors and 35,000 square metres spread across eight halls.

Read FashionUnited’s IFCO fair report here.

Disclaimer: Each fashion trade show calculates its visitor numbers differently. The statistics can only be compared to a limited extent.