Diversifying buyers, shifting priorities: Source Fashion scales up to meet evolving sourcing demands

“We’re still in toddler territory,” Source Fashion director, Suzanne Ellingham, jokingly said when asked about the event’s milestones. Now in its third year, the trade fair is moving into the bigger venue of The Grand Hall in Olympia London. The move reflects the 30 percent year-on-year growth experienced since its inception in 2023. Despite this, Ellingham retains the view that the fair’s expansion has been organic and intentionally slower than what it could have been.

“The goal was never to come onto the scene in year one as big as the likes of Magic,” Ellingham told FashionUnited. “What we set out to achieve was creating a platform for responsible sourcing. There is a lot of talk about how consumers spend their money, but how often do we hold retailers and wholesalers who order large quantities to the same standard? What we wanted to do was create a platform whereby there was no reason for any retailer or buyer to not buy from a fundamentally good factory.”

To ensure this, Source has, from the outset, vetted all of its exhibiting manufacturers to confirm they adhere to labour and quality standards, thus placing the “right pillars of growth”. Ellingham acknowledges, however, that in the evolving landscape of responsible manufacturing, with new certifications and regulations always emerging, this is an ongoing journey for many. Other challenges Source addresses extend into the changing demands of buyers, meaning the fair is in a constant state of transformation.

New app and emphasis on certifications aim to boost collaboration

For its sixth edition, taking place July 8 to 10, Source is welcoming 250 ‘makers’ and manufacturers from over 22 key sourcing regions. In contrast to its sister fair Pure London, which has now been absorbed by Autumn and Spring Fair, Source is only getting bigger – a possible reflection of a need for manufacturing-focused events. The shift to a larger venue was deemed “symbolic” by Ellingham, who said visitors will be able to feel the growth of the fair.

Such expansion has required adaptation on the organisational part. This season, certifications will be visibly displayed at the booths, to inform passersby of the manufacturer’s achievements. An app has also been introduced, allowing audiences to connect and browse exhibitors. It underlines the importance of collaboration for Ellingham, who said that while Source had previously lacked tools to connect exhibitors and visitors, growth admittedly relies on such a feat. “As we move into year three, it feels like the right time to invest in the kind of platform that enables those connections,” she noted.

Much of this also comes down to educating manufacturers and partners in order to uphold the event’s standards. In this regard, the “reality is twofold”, Ellingham said. “Firstly, we want to have a show floor full of good manufacturers. Secondly, at a fundamentally high level, [a manufacturer’s] aim is to boost their exports. What we’re doing is giving them a blueprint for their factories to be seen as credible. We can tell them: ‘If you want to do business with, for example, John Lewis, these are the minimum standards to get your foot in the door. They need to go through a vetting process, and if they don’t have some of the desired qualities, the order goes up in smoke. For us, this is where we shifted from being a show that is setting these requirements to being a platform of advice on how to do business faster.”

This has allowed Source to establish trust and strong relations with both factories and international government or export agencies, which have typically remained in place as partners since year one and continue to work towards given minimum standards. “The reason we’ve grown is because all of our exhibitors have been able to work with our visitor base”, who notably inform Source of the certifications and standards they are seeking in potential partners.

Slow growth in representation of UK manufacturers, despite demand

One of the biggest challenges faced by Source Fashion is balancing out the countries it represents. While China, India and Sri Lanka are among the regions well platformed, the event has put the work in to grow its exhibitor base from Africa, parts of Europe, South America and the UK. This comes with the intention of catering to a growing demand from visitors wanting to work with new regions, as more begin moving some of their product volume production away from China or India.

Challenges particularly occur in finding more manufacturers from Europe and the UK, where, unlike in Asia, government-funded export programmes for manufacturers are less prominent. Many other regions have export agencies to support local businesses, however, this is lacking in the UK, so growth has been slower for this region at Source. Despite this, British visitors say they are actively seeking local or European manufacturers, according to surveys carried out by the fair, and with nearshoring steadily rising as a trend, demand only looks to be going upwards.

Change also needs to be present on the side of retailers and businesses, however, many of whom are not yet equipped to source closer to home, a process that is more costly. “In a world where volume drives buying and quantity means better discounts, it comes down to how they are building the business internally to allow that drop in margin to source closer to home,” Ellingham noted. “Retailers and brands that want to nearshore are now looking at how that will impact their buying strategy, and what they can do in terms of volume or short runs. A large part of what we’re doing at the moment is about helping those buyers understand the rationale for why nearshoring should be part of their strategy.”

This ability to maintain a relationship fuelled by education and partnership with visitors is part of why Source has been able to maintain sustainable growth. Each season, the list of attendees has continued to expand, this edition selling out in its entirety, and is now made up of both major UK fashion retailers and brands, as well as more local boutiques. While these leading fashion players make up a large proportion of guests, Source has seen a shift in types of attendees, with non-fashion buyers increasingly taking advantage of the event.

Non-fashion buyers slowly outnumber fashion-focused attendees

In the realm of sports, the fair has welcomed everything from Premier League football clubs to pickle ball teams, each looking to buy a substantial amount of uniforms, and therefore representing lucrative business opportunities. “What we’ve seen is the diversification of it,” Ellingham said. “A lot more non-fashion buyers likely come to the show now than actual fashion brands. When we see the different profiles, I’m always curious as to why they register. I often find that it is a club with four teams that need around 500 to 600 hundred uniform pieces each year. They’re not interested in the retail price, they just want a fair price. It’s an easy repeat order, and I think that’s where we’ve really won. It’s not just about the big retailers, it’s the evolving nature of who else needs to buy products.”

These returning buyers, which also includes hotels, private schools and other establishments, run alongside a growing number of emerging designers and startups that are now considered regulars. Such groups benefit from Source’s often extensive agenda of talks, presentations, debates and shows, which this year focus on the lack of viable change in the attempt to establish a more sustainable and responsible sourcing market.

Ellingham notes that in the present day, businesses are faced with a challenging market, following significant impact from the past five years – from Covid to Brexit to tariffs. And so, Source’s various panel talks and discussions will discuss just that, questioning why no significant movement is happening and what this could mean for the near future. “Businesses are asking how they can justify long-term transformation when they don’t know if they will still be around in three months time,” Ellingham stated. “When you look at it through a very human lens, it becomes a question of building an entire agenda around talking about volatility and managing risk.”

With the show set to open its doors, Ellingham is looking ahead to the new edition with a positive lens, however. In a statement, she commented: “Source Fashion has always been about more than sourcing, it’s about helping businesses make better decisions in a fast-changing world. As we prepare to open the doors to Olympia’s Grand Hall, the momentum behind the show reflects a real shift in priorities across the industry. Buyers aren’t just looking for a new piece or range, they’re looking for trusted partners, smarter strategies, and more responsible ways to grow. This edition brings together audited manufacturers from around the world, a bold content programme, and a community committed to progress. Whether you're tackling new challenges or exploring fresh opportunities, Source Fashion is the place to find the people and ideas that can help move your business forward.”