Düsseldorf Fashion Days: New beginnings, established practices and the question of courage

Over the weekend, Düsseldorf was once again dominated by fashion. Summer temperatures provided a fitting backdrop for the collections of the upcoming spring/summer 2026 season at Düsseldorf Fashion Days. However, alongside light silhouettes and cheerful colours, one theme particularly characterised the event: "Courage as a Must-Have".

At the start of the trade fair, organisers at Supreme Women & Men shared this sentiment in an interview with FashionUnited, as an attitude that should carry the trade through challenging times. In a market that has barely recovered from the after-effects of the coronavirus pandemic and continues to struggle with consumer reticence, uncertainty, and structural change, courage is needed more than ever.

But how great is the willingness to make courageous decisions when the trade has been operating in a state of emergency for years? And how is this reflected in the spring/summer 2026 season?

Positive trade fair atmosphere despite difficult figures

An impression of this can be gained not only on the exhibition floors, but also on the journey between the venues. In one of the shuttle buses taking visitors from the Supreme location on Kaiserswerther Straße through the city, a guest dryly remarked that the atmosphere was noticeably better than the business figures of many retailers would have suggested beforehand. This is not a matter of course, especially in the traditionally rather reserved German market.

In fact, Supreme Düsseldorf is proving to be one of the few remaining fixed points for exchange between industry and trade this season. The trade fair no longer functions solely as a pure order platform, but increasingly as a meeting place for dialogue, orientation, and new impulses. Numerous exhibitors reported solid visitor frequency on the first two days. Around 3,000 guests were counted from Friday to Sunday. It was not just about ordering, but also about intensive probing, personal networking, and professional exchange. The need for direct encounters remains high, even if here and there the desire is voiced to rely more on spontaneous walk-in customers instead of strictly appointment-based conversations. Nevertheless, the will to connect is palpable, as is the willingness to invest more heavily in personal relationships and continuous dialogue.

One example of this willingness is the presence of the Dutch brand Fabienne Chapot, whose sales team used Supreme as a platform to specifically make new contacts and deepen existing relationships. "We deliberately opted for a double presence, with a compact stand at the trade fair as an emotional anchor point and a nearby showroom for the complete collection and the concrete orders," explained Fabienne Chapot representative Tina Kopp. The response was positive, even if the trade fair as a whole was quieter than expected.

"For us, the effort was worth it, especially because new customers found their way to us." The hand-painted prints and the loving details of the collection were particularly appreciated. Aspects that, according to Kopp, could be conveyed convincingly, especially in personal conversations. The price-performance ratio also met with little resistance. "The mood at the trade fair was surprisingly positive overall," she summarised.

Supreme positions itself as a gateway to trade

"Determination is required. From the trade, from the brands, but also from us as organisers," said Supreme CEO Aline Müller-Schade in an interview with FashionUnited. This determination is also evident on the exhibition floor. The collections for spring/summer 2026 appear fresher and younger, even if brand building remains a long-term task. It takes three to four seasons for a label to be seriously perceived, she explained. This is why Supreme is focusing on continuity in the exhibitor structure and sees itself not only as a place for short-term orders, but also as a partner for strategic brand development. "We see ourselves as a gateway to the industry - and the gate is wide open."

Schwester, the newly launched, higher-priced womenswear line of the fashion brand Blutsgeschwister, also wants to use this gateway. Marion Meyer-Arendt, chief retail officer of Blutsgeschwister, and Sarah Voß, who is responsible for sales in East Germany, presented Schwister for the first time at the trade fair. After a trade fair break, the team deliberately returned with this new line to acquire new customers and gather feedback directly on the exhibition floor, in addition to appointments in their own showrooms.

However, the start at the trade fair proved challenging. The first few days were rather quiet, with predominantly press visits. Potential customers tended to concentrate on brands they already knew and firmly booked appointments. It was not until Sunday, the last day of the trade fair, that there was a lively interest, also from potential new customers. Against this background, Meyer-Arendt again emphasised that determination is required, especially in the current market phase - both from buyers, who should give new brands a chance, and from the trade, which must be prepared to invest in innovation.

With clear price structures and fashionable, independent designs, Schwister specifically targets a customer group that values special patterns, high-quality materials, and evening wear. Voß particularly emphasised Blutsgeschwister's many years of experience and production quality, which offer a vote of confidence. At the same time, she stressed that the brand is deliberately breaking new ground in order to develop further and position itself more fashionably.

The decision comes at a time when the desire for clearer differentiation is growing, and for good reason. Those who rely exclusively on the tried and tested risk losing their profile in the long term. However, the Düsseldorf Fashion Days - and examples like Schwister - show that while there is interest in new things, the actual courage to implement them and the corresponding budget are still lacking in many places.

Despite these challenges, Supreme remains firmly committed to its clear positioning in the premium and luxury segment and to Düsseldorf as a location. With a long-term lease until at least 2030, the trade fair is clearly committed to the location. Despite the ongoing discussions about the future of stationary trade and the role of digital order formats, one thing is clear for Müller-Schade: "We need places like this where the industry comes together. Because this is where the decisions are made that will make the difference tomorrow." She speaks from the heart of many exhibitors, because even if visitor numbers are perhaps no longer comparable to the once usual crowds of buyers - also because buying teams, like budgets, are getting smaller and smaller - one would not want to miss a place like Supreme in Düsseldorf.

Twodays launches in two locations

However, Igedo has shown particular courage this season. The organiser, which recently held the Fashn Rooms and Neonyt trade fairs in Düsseldorf, ventured into a new trade fair chapter. Last season, Fashn Rooms already focused on a more compact area and moved from the Areal Böhler to the neighbouring 'Kaltstahlhalle'. Now, a further move to the historic Rheinterrasse has followed. The listed building with its high ceilings, large windows, and Rhine view was once part of the GeSoLei exhibition of 1926 and formerly served as a concert and dance hall. Now it served as one of the two locations for TwoDays and the associated showroom concept.

As the name suggests, the new trade fair concept officially relies on a duration of only two days. However, it started with a 'soft launch' at the Rheinterrassen on Saturday. The parallel integrated showroom concept, located at Kap.One on Kaiserswerther Straße, even began on Friday. The sustainable trade fair concept Neonyt is still integrated into the Rheinterrasse. However, not with its own area, but through a discreet marking of sustainable 'Neonyt' brands. According to the exhibitor list, these were eight out of a total of around 170 labels.

Gola presented itself directly at the entrance to the trade fair in the Rheinterrasse, which was designed as a circular tour. The label, which describes itself as the oldest sneaker brand in the world with over 120 years of history, focuses on presence, even if the trade fair appearance is more like a targeted test run. "This is an experiment. We want to see if we can reach new customers from the fashion house or boutique sector with our presence," explained representative Detlef Zimmermann. The brand is currently mainly anchored in classic shoe and specialist retailers. This made it all the more sensible to participate in the rethought platform of the organiser Igedo, which combines fashion, accessories, and shoes, as a litmus test.

Despite a clearly defined goal, Zimmermann was not surprised or worried by the still very restrained visitor frequency on Saturday morning. As a company, one has a certain obligation to be present, also to support locations like this. While other formats such as the ANWR association trade fair in Mainhausen or the Unitex Fashion Festival in Ulm are currently much more effective, they have consciously decided to fly the flag in Düsseldorf.

For Gola, however, the focus is less on the order business than on personal contact: "The conversations, not the orders. I want exchange, not just orders. We write those elsewhere." This is crucial for many retailers, especially in the current market situation. Investments are being made more cautiously, and product ranges are being consolidated more strongly. "Many retailers are uncertain, shy away from risks, and are afraid of investments," he described the mood in the market. In addition, retailers want stability, reliability, and profile above all - on both sides. Especially in a fluctuating market environment, it is important that brands show a clear stance. "If you go everywhere where there's light, you shouldn't be surprised if no one knows what the brand stands for anymore," he said, referring to overly broad sales strategies in the market. In such phases, however, trusting, uncomplicated cooperation is even more important. This is precisely where Gola wants to start: "With us, there are no minimum quantities or budget limits. It just has to make sense."

At the same time, however, the company makes clear specifications when selecting its sales partners: "We have consciously separated ourselves from platforms like Amazon, Zalando, or About You. That has done the brand extremely well," he emphasised. Instead, Gola relies on stationary trade, its own web shop with deliberately higher prices, and a targeted location strategy: "We don't take on new customers if the location isn't right. Not even when big names come knocking."

8Beaufort also selects its retailers selectively. The sneaker brand, which sources its materials from recycled sailcloth and produces in Hamburg and Portugal, has been focusing on targeted sales for years. The Hanseatic company focuses in particular on partners in coastal regions such as Brittany, the Netherlands, Denmark, or Northern Germany, who reflect the ethos of the brand.

Nevertheless, the sneaker brand found its way to Düsseldorf, albeit as a former part of the sustainable trade fair Neonyt, which is now integrated into TwoDays. However, Managing Director Sabine Moormann is quite critical of the fact that Neonyt is no longer perceptible as an independent stage, but has been integrated into a broader format - even though she grundsätzlich welcomes the attempt to bring sustainability more into the centre of the industry. She fears that Neonyt's profile could be diluted in the new structure. "I would have liked the theme to remain visible and not get lost in the rest of the hall." Conversations were held on a completely different level at the original trade fair format, because there it was not just about calculations, but about attitude.

Nevertheless, the company wanted to give the new constellation a fair chance. "Just criticising doesn't help. You have to try out formats before you judge them." However, visitor frequency remained manageable on the first day of the trade fair, which started with a soft launch on Saturday. "Many people didn't have the Saturday date on their radar," said Moormann on Sunday morning. "I myself only realised two days beforehand that I had to arrive on Saturday." The trade fair title TwoDays had caused more confusion than orientation and left most people under the misapprehension that the trade fair would take place on Sunday and Monday.

The brand will also be represented at Who's Next in Paris in September, which, like Igedo, holds a licence for Neonyt. Nevertheless, the managing director seems to be doubting the usefulness of a trade fair appearance for her brand. One reason for this is that new customers are not currently the focus of the brand, which recently opened its second own store in the Überseequartier in Hamburg.

"For us as a brand with strong direct sales and a clear selection of retailers, a regional trade fair appearance like this is not always the best platform," is the current situation. The company's own showroom in Hamburg also serves as a possible alternative to the classic order round at the trade fair for the brand, which completely dispenses with agency sales.

The young start-up Azur L'Amour, on the other hand, specifically sought its way to the trade fair for the first time. The Hamburg-based label has not yet been on the market for a year, but already sees itself as a premium brand with attitude. "We stand for high quality and strong statements. Our logo is a kissing mouth, which stands for sensuality, but also for speaking out, for clear messages," explained co-founder Niels Stehn. For example, the founders wore a hoodie with the provocative inscription 'Stop making stupid people famous' to the US election to contribute to the discussion.

With a mix of its own web shop and owner-managed boutiques, Azur L'Amour has so far deliberately positioned itself away from large platforms or classic sales agencies. Accordingly, the appearance at TwoDays was important for the young company: "We simply wanted to get feedback, see how the collection is received, whether boutiques show interest, perhaps request lookbooks," said Stehn.

However, the first day of the trade fair was also characterised by restraint here, and the positioning in the first exhibition hall, where shoes and fashion meet, initially caused some confusion. As a premium fashion brand, they would like to see clearer curation and better classification in the overall picture. Nevertheless, they emphasised the positive aspects of visiting the trade fair, as the exchange that took place was great, and the trade fair as a centrally located meeting place for the German market would certainly make sense. "Düsseldorf is actually great if you want to reach small boutiques all over Germany." Nevertheless, the label is already thinking about other options such as Copenhagen or Paris.

Showroom concept at Kap.One stands out

While the quiet start on Sunday morning in particular caused mixed feelings at the Rheinterrasse, the exhibitors at the more centrally located Kap.One were particularly impressed by the location of the new concept. For Desigual, the change of location to Kaiserswerther Straße is a clear improvement, as Tanja Wiesent, area manager for Central, Northern, and Eastern Europe, emphasised: "You can do everything in one go - Supreme, Kaiserswerther Showrooms, and then here to the trade fair." The clientele was also more international and spontaneous than expected. Despite initial healthy scepticism, they experienced a successful start with new contacts from countries such as the UK and Finland.

Hinterhofagentur also rated the new location positively. The central location and the more relaxed procedure without the constraint of purely appointment-based arrangements were particularly appreciated: "Customers also just drop in here to have a look - that's positive, of course," said manager Dominik Meuer. However, the frequency on site is perceived but not overestimated - "better three good customers than ten who just pass through," said an agency representative. The walk-in customers are of high quality, but overall the trade fair business is far from previous visitor numbers.

Both interviewees painted a realistic picture of the current situation in the trade. Wiesent described the industry as cautious, but slightly optimistic again: "People are becoming a little more courageous. But spontaneous purchases are still missing." Margin pressure, tight budgets, and a focus on established brands make it difficult to include new labels: "In the end, it fails because of the space," Wiesent continued. Meuer also described the industry as consolidation-oriented, with little room for experimentation: "Many only want to see and buy what they already had."

Brand integration and modernisation in Düsseldorf

It is a picture that is not only evident at Twodays, but regularly at the Düsseldorf Fashion Days. Change, as necessary as it is, still scares many retailers at the moment.

With the complete integration of Casual Identity (CI) under the Comma brand umbrella, the S.Oliver Group has therefore taken a courageous and at the same time consistent step: away from parallel lines, towards a consolidated brand world. The decision is a clear response to changed consumer behaviour, declining order numbers in classic specialist retailers, and part of a long-term strategy, as Mouna Straub, Division Head Comma & Comma CI, emphasised.

"We said: We'd rather bundle the strengths of both lines into one brand - and invest in the future," explained the product manager. This also means deliberately foregoing short-term sales in order to be able to grow in the long term with a strong, consistent brand. The step was not without risk, because the new orientation met with a mixed response, especially in the trade. "Of course, there were voices that said: You were there for precisely this niche that you are now dissolving," she reported. But Comma countered this. It is not about replacement, but about modernisation. The target group remains 35-plus, the brand identity is preserved - only in a more contemporary form.

The response at the Düsseldorf Fashion Days was also predominantly positive. "The customers came in and said: 'It looks different - but good different'," was the interim conclusion. Nevertheless, a certain restraint remains noticeable. Pre-order volumes are declining - a consequence of the general market situation, but also an expression of growing caution on the part of retailers.

"We deliver monthly and analyse precisely: 'What really sells when?'" The company relies on data-based product development. Because there is a growing gap between classic pre-order thinking and real sales data. Comma also sees this discrepancy as an educational mandate towards the trade. However, not all partners are prepared to go down this road immediately. While some welcome the new brand strategy, others remain hesitant. Especially in traditional houses, the elimination of the previous niche positioning is viewed critically: "I placed you there - I want you to continue to serve that," is the message from purchasing. For Comma, however, it is clear that this model is not sustainable.

"We are taking our partners with us in the transition," was the clear message. Now, however, it is a matter of delivering performance in the trade and gradually taking partners along. "In three years, the trade will have to have followed suit, otherwise it won't work."

Newcomers and 'old hands' in Hall 29

In Hall 29 of the Düsseldorf Fashion Days, it becomes clear not only at Comma, but also at other brands based here, that the market is on the move, but not everyone is moving at the same pace. While established brands are sharpening their strategies, new labels are presenting fresh impulses.

One example of this fresh impetus is the Guido Maria Kretschmer brand. "We have just started, completed the first season in March, and are now structurally well positioned," reported Rebecca Drießen, Senior Key Account & Sales Manager. The brand was spun off from its former parent company About You, with P&C Düsseldorf as a strong first retail partner.

The current entry into Hall 29 was strategically chosen: "Many customers asked where we could be found. We wanted to be present and close to the action." The mix of brand awareness, attractive pricing, and an emotionally accessible collection was well received. Dresses for special occasions and the range in larger sizes were particularly in demand, which, according to Drießen, "were ordered directly, even though it was not originally planned as a trade fair focus."

Digel is also represented in Hall 29 and presents itself as one of the suppliers that the trade relies on in uncertain times. Gerrit Schulz, Sales Director Wholesale, described the current situation with realistic clarity: "We are not talking about double-digit plus figures here, but we are at a stable level and can compare ourselves with the order volume of the pre-coronavirus period."

The first orders for the coming season are currently already around 30 percent higher than in the same period last year. A signal that is positive, but also due to the changed market dynamics. "Many retailers are concentrating more on their regular suppliers again. We are benefiting from this," said Schulz.

With a strong never-out-of-stock (NOS) range, over 140 modular systems, and new fashion impulses, such as oversize styles, jersey jackets, or hybrid solutions, Digel manages the balancing act between commercial modernity and functioning floor performance. Schulz emphasised: "Customers today not only want products, but also security. The willingness to accept higher price ranges is there - if the quality, fit, and availability are right." Digel is particularly successful in the occasionwear sector: Weddings, school celebrations, and business events continue to generate demand and enable sales where classic menswear has recently been under pressure.

Nevertheless, the trade's reluctance remains a noticeable issue at Digel. The discussions are currently less about prices and more about range streamlining, margins, and logistics. "How can we achieve more rotation with fewer options?" is one of the most frequently asked questions, according to Schulz.

The fact that many of these questions are also present at other brands is exemplified by the presence of the R.Brand Group. The mood is grundsätzlich positive, said Marco Vocke, Head of Sales National for Pierre Cardin & Atelier, but the challenges of recent seasons continue to weigh on both industry and trade. At Pierre Cardin, the focus is also on margin pressure, pre-order risks, declining footfall - but also on solutions.

"The increased costs run 1:1 against the company margin if the gross margin does not change," said Vocke. To counteract this, the sales concept has been revised, the margin for the trade significantly improved, and at the same time the NOS offer strategically expanded. Especially for AirTouch, Lightweight, or Denim - areas in which Pierre Cardin is perceived as strong - the label, which belongs to the R.Brand Group, focuses on replenishment instead of over-delivery.

The clear collection architecture is also exciting. Around 30 to 35 percent NOS-capable items, 30 percent trend products with a fashionable appeal, ten percent as a fashionable spearhead. "This division creates a balance between fashion, courage, and security - and also helps the trade to plan more specifically."

Another component is the Atelier line, introduced since autumn/winter 2025, which was launched at the request of the trade and specifically expands the range upwards - both in terms of price and materiality. Real goatskin or cashmere are intended to help increase the average purchase value. The response to the collection has been positive, even if this is not yet directly measurable in order figures.

"Everyone who leaves here says: I have to rethink Pierre Cardin." The brand, which has focused strongly on trousers for decades, now wants to position itself more broadly. Nevertheless, the reality here too is that new approaches sometimes encounter structural hurdles. "Many buyers don't know where to put us if we suddenly do more than trousers."

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

FashionUnited uses AI language tools to speed up translating (news) articles and proofread the translations to improve the end result. This saves our human journalists time they can spend doing research and writing original articles. Articles translated with the help of AI are checked and edited by a human desk editor prior to going online. If you have questions or comments about this process email us at info@fashionunited.com