Techtextil and Techprocess 2026: Navigating innovation and the pressure to implement
The two trade fairs, Techtextil and Texprocess, demonstrated the significant innovative potential within the textile industry in Frankfurt am Main last week. Around 1,700 exhibitors from over 100 countries presented new solutions for performance textiles and their processing. At the same time, many discussions highlighted a clear point: while there are many good ideas, the main challenge lies in implementing them on an industrial scale.
More than 36,000 visitors from 112 countries used the trade fairs to learn about current developments and discuss the state of the industry. Topics included the noticeable pressures from geopolitical uncertainties, disrupted supply chains, high energy and raw material prices, and increasing regulatory requirements. “Volatile market developments are permanently changing business models,” says Detlef Braun, managing director of Messe Frankfurt. “Connectivity, flexibility and speed are key success factors in this environment. Techtextil and Texprocess bring together the relevant players to translate ideas into applications more quickly.”
Recycling innovations and reduced dependence on fossil fuels
While sustainability was clearly at the centre of many innovations at the last event two years ago, this year showed that it continues to be a major focus for the industry, albeit less prominently and not as the sole driver.
One example is the 'Nature Performance' theme, which showcased natural and bio-based alternatives to traditional chemical fibres at the trade fair. The focus was on materials that combine sustainability with high performance while also reducing CO₂ emissions and being recyclable. For instance, sewing thread specialist Amann presented the first sewing thread made from cellulose without a polyester core, and Oceansafe introduced a high-performance polymer based on bio-based and recycled raw materials that can be scaled for industrial use.
The US fibre and technology provider The Lycra Company is also increasingly focusing on bio-based fibre content while simultaneously working on recycling solutions. “It was once thought that Lycra fabrics could not be recycled, but that is not true. It is a matter of technology,” says Arnaud Ruffin, vice president of brands and retail business at The Lycra Company. Today, it is possible to separate blended fibres containing Lycra back into their constituent parts, such as polyamide and Lycra. To further develop these technologies, a collaboration was launched in December between RadiciGroup, through its research division Radici InNova, lingerie manufacturer Triumph and The Lycra Company. The aim is to recycle production waste and test the processes under real-world conditions. In parallel, work is already underway on solutions for recycling post-consumer waste, according to Ruffin.
Finishes are also moving towards bio-based raw materials, as seen with the German textile chemistry specialist Rudolf. The company has developed a bio-based finish with thermoregulating properties that prevents heat build-up. Water-repellent finishes free of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) also remain a key topic for the industry. Just this January, Greenpeace in Austria tested jackets from C&A, finding positive results for various 'forever chemicals' and publicising the exceeding of limit values. Alexander Hanel from Rudolf says that significantly more testing is now being conducted. However, the problem with PFAS in particular is that these substances are now detectable everywhere due to cross-contamination. “It has become difficult not to find them,” says Hanel. A general ban on PFAS in the apparel industry has been under discussion for several years. Extensive restrictions are already in place in France, Denmark, Norway and some US states. Rudolf has been offering PFAS-free finishes since 2004.
Sustainability remains – but under new conditions
While sustainability remains a key focus, there has been a noticeable shift in perspective. Just a few years ago, the European Green Deal primarily aimed to make the textile industry more sustainable and climate-friendly. This vision persists, but it is increasingly complemented by a second central question: How can the ecological transformation be reconciled with industrial competitiveness in Europe? Against the backdrop of global crises, disrupted supply chains and growing geopolitical tensions, the political focus in Brussels has significantly broadened, explains Dirk Vantyghem from the European apparel and textile confederation Euratex. The Green Deal has now evolved into a 'Clean Industrial Deal', where competitiveness, security of supply and strategic autonomy are taking centre stage.
“The last few years have overwhelmed many companies,” says Vantyghem. “There were too many new rules, especially for small and medium-sized enterprises. The pace is now set to slow down.” The high EU standards and compliance requirements will remain. However, in the future, they will be more consistently enforced for companies selling in Europe, not just for those producing here. This brings large international fast fashion providers, in particular, more sharply into the focus of regulation.
Simultaneously, the EU is planning tighter and more centralised control through a common customs authority to improve the enforcement of rules. Public procurement will also be used more extensively to strengthen European companies and promote investment in domestic industry. In addition, the EU is increasingly focusing on new international partnerships to reduce existing dependencies on countries like China or the US.
Automation and AI: Big promises, difficult reality
For years, automation and the advancement of production have played a central role in the textile industry, and this became particularly tangible at the trade fair. For example, sewing machine manufacturers like Dürkopp Adler showcased their latest automated sewing machines. Meanwhile, machine builders presented concepts for the fully automated production of simple items, such as lanyards or similar standard products. An artificial intelligence (AI) driven fabric inspection system from the Laboratory for Artificial Intelligence in Design in Hong Kong also detects defects on textile surfaces more reliably and faster than the human eye.
AI, robotics and sensor technology are generally considered key drivers of the next stage of production, even if implementation is still lacking. “Robots can already understand textiles, but the industry cannot yet,” said Massoud Sattari Torki from the ITA Group. He was referring less to the individual steps that robots can perform and more to the digitalisation and automation of entire processes. Textiles are highly variable, which is why traditional automation reaches its limits. Therefore, closed-loop control systems are required, in which sensors and movement interact closely. At the same time, fragmented data, a lack of integration and high costs are slowing down scalability. “Too many solutions get stuck at the pilot stage,” said Torki, calling for more real-world implementations. The goal is not to replace workers but to supplement them, partly due to the growing shortage of skilled labour.
Product development can also be digitalised and made more efficient with the help of 3D simulation and artificial intelligence. “AI is the most important topic of the trade fair,” finds Hans-Peter Hiemer from 3D software specialist Assyst. “In Europe, companies are just beginning to engage with AI. Asia is two years ahead of us in this regard.” Assyst has therefore started training an AI in the language of fashion. This is intended not only to solve communication problems. An AI that understands fashion terminology can analyse collections faster, structure trends or generate design ideas without everything having to be translated into technical parameters. This accelerates processes such as prototyping and variant development.
Further innovations in robotics and automation include robotic systems that can grip and stack fabric layers either by using an airflow or by targeted freezing. The airflow solution from Robotextile is already in use at C&A and Vaude, says co-managing director Michael Müller. “Falling robot prices, labour shortages and nearshoring are driving automation forward,” he is convinced.
Military as a growth market: Demand for protection and origin increases
A clear trend at Techtextil and Texprocess was the growing importance of the military and security segment for the textile industry. The fact that investment in this area is currently increasing was noticeable at many stands. At the same time, the boundaries between classic workwear, outdoor and military applications are becoming increasingly blurred.
“Workwear and, increasingly, the military sector are gaining significant traction,” says Michael Pümpel from the Austrian fabric producer Getzner Textil, which develops materials for ballistic vests and infrared camouflage, among other things. The production location is also gaining importance: “The armed forces naturally prioritise the security aspect first, but it is becoming increasingly important where the products are manufactured and whether the supply chains are trustworthy.” Many clients are increasingly avoiding procurement in China and are specifically looking for European suppliers.
This is also evident among suppliers: even the button manufacturer Prym now specifically targets the military as a customer group and presented itself at the trade fair with a military look.
Against this backdrop, 'Made in EU' takes on a new dimension. While the term long stood primarily for sustainability, aspects such as security, reliability and strategic independence are now increasingly coming to the forefront. The demand for regional production structures is growing accordingly, and the EU regulatory framework now aims to respond quickly to this.
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