Kristopher Fraser

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Thursday, 19 October 2017

After a successful launch this summer, Privé Revaux is releasing its second collection of handcrafted eyewear, along with a new campaign starring brand partners Jamie Foxx, Hailee Steinfeld, Jeremy Piven and Ashley Benson styled by creative directors Mariel Haenn and Rob Zangardi. In addition to their new collection, Privé Revaux will also debut prescription glasses and new retail partners.

Privé's new Icon Collection is a proud nod to past and current fashion icons including Albert Einstein, Alexander McQueen, Jackie Kennedy and Karl Lagerfeld.

In addition to new styles, Privé Revaux is launching their new prescription sunglasses and optical frames program called Privélege. The new program is a subscription service that grants members exclusive access to money saving benefits for 29 dollars and 95 cents per year. Members can add prescription lenses to their Privé Revaux frames at wholesale cost. Frames with prescription lenses will begin at 59 dollars and 95 cents, a fraction of the price of typical prescription glasses. In addition, members will be privileged with early access to limited-edition frames and exclusive discounts.

"Since inception, Privé Revaux designs have been consistently selling out, so we wanted to offer our customers new and fresh styles to love," said David Schottenstein, Privé Revaux's founder. "We've upgraded everything from high-end materials to affordable prescription lenses, as well as a better user experience with a digital try-on tool, local kiosks and brick-and-mortar retail expansion so buyers can easily find the perfect fit—all at the same amazing price."

Since June, Privé Revaux has rapidly expanded its retail footprint. The Icon Collection will not only be available online at PriveRevaux.com and retail giant Amazon.com, but also at major department stores, Privé Revaux-branded kiosks and brick-and-mortar shops this November. Privé Revaux will also be launching in Australia and New Zealand in partnership with Catch Group, selling through the retailer's various sales channels including Catch.com.au. Additionally, the brand will be available internationally in Canada, Colombia, Mexico, Japan, China, Singapore, Malaysia, Taiwan, Indonesia, South Africa, Norway, UK, Italy, the Philippines and the Middle East.

photo: via PR Newswire

FashionUnited

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Thursday, 19 October 2017

One year ago, Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens made his comeback with his eponymous label. After the brand was off the radar for fifteen years, the designer brought it back to life and all eyes were fixed on him. Twelve months after his label’s revival. FashionMuseum Antwerp presented an overview of Theyskens work in the exhibition ‘Olivier Theyskens - She Walks in Beauty’. FashionUnited took a moment to speak to the Belgian designer and learn more about the past year, the exhibition and his view on design and the future. “It has been an excellent year,” says the designer.

“I have been wanting to do this project for such a long time,” explains Theyskens in regard to his label's revival.“I was always delaying it because I was involved in other projects and thought: I will do it later.” Theyskens previously served as creative director at fashion houses Rochas and Nina Ricci and at the contemporary label Theory. “After a while, I realized that I should see this as a priority, otherwise I was never going to do it.” Three years ago Theyskens put his own label on the top of the priority list and worked in secret for two years on the collection. Meanwhile, Theyskens already presented his third collection since his return. “I have the opportunity to have second look at what I am doing, whom I am working with and how I work at a totally new scale.”

Olivier Theyskens: “I want to be able to transform and grow”

At the time of his first collection launch, last year September, the designer pointed out he did not want to get ‘too big too fast’. The question arises whether someone with his name and his experience is able to do so. Theyskens, however, is convinced this is possible: “It is a smart strategy for me. I want to be able to transform and grow, step by step. We are still in the early stage and these collections are fundamental for the brand.”

After working for several other fashion houses, Theyskens thinks working for his own brand is not a big change. “It is very similar to what I used to do at the other fashion houses. I still present collections, I draw, I am involved in the design process.” He did learn a lot at Rochas, Nina Ricci, and Theory; knowledge that he still applies to his own label today. He learned how important teamwork is, but also how to work efficiently when deadlines are approaching. “Moreover, it is important that everybody feels inspired and enthusiastic to accompany you in this journey.”

It is clear a lot has changed for Theyskens in the previous years. Not only did he work at different places, his own designs have also evolved. “It is not comparable,” says the designer about his work. “All my experiences have impacted my designs. I have learned things, started to appreciate different values and things I like when it comes to design.” During his time at Rochas and Nina Ricci, he used different historical references in his collections. Whatever has changed in his preferences and inspiration, Theyskens is certain he always continues to do the best he can.

Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens: “I work from a form of beauty”

In the new exhibition ‘Olivier Theyskens - She Walks in Beauty’, his creative evolution is clearly visible. The designer is happy to see all his collections together and is enthusiastic that others get the chance to see a new side of his work. However, picking a favorite creation is difficult for Theyskens. “They are like my babies! All these collections are made in another stage of my life. I am attached to all of them.” After a moment of reflection, he eventually mentions his first collection has to be his favorite. “This collection was the start for me, it made everything possible. This collection helped me to get to where I am now.”

Theyskens is known for his romantic, gothic-looking designs. Characteristics for his collections are bustiers, neat pants, exposed hook and eye closures and swallowtail dresses. The Belgian himself cannot label his style but does know clearly why he designs. “I work from a form of beauty. Nothing is more beautiful and pure than a woman who looks good. Besides this a collection should be relevant: logical and beautiful.” Therefore it is not a surprise the exhibition at the FashionMuseum of Antwerp is called ‘She Walks in Beauty”.

Yet, Theyskens was surprised the museum wanted to dedicate an exhibition just to him. “At first I thought they wanted me to curate another overview exhibition. It took a view months for me to realize this was about me,” says Theyskens, who is known to be modest. Together with his own team and a team from the MoMu he worked on the exhibition. “It can be scary to focus on my own career, but MoMu wanted to show a designer with a rich history who was now making the next step. There is no better motivation than this.”

Olivier Theyskens: “I keep focussing on how I want to present women”

Theyskens looks at the future with an open mind: “I know from experience that you never know what is going to happen. Things can change quickly.” That is why the Belgian designer thinks it is very important to live in the here and now. “I like to set goals and to hold on to these ideas, but it is also important to stay flexible,” according to Theyskens. “I keep designing and focussing on how I want to present women. Presenting a beautiful and relevant woman, there is nothing better than that.”

This article is published before, at FashionUnited.nl and FashionUnited.be, written by our editor from The Netherlands. Translation and adjustments by Blanca Heise.

Vivian Hendriksz

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Thursday, 19 October 2017

OPINIONLondon - The fashion industry problem with waste caught the public’s attention this week, as leading fashion companies H&M and Bestseller were accused of incinerating tonnes of unwanted, yet usable clothing. While H&M denies these claims, stating they only destroy clothing which fails to fulfil their strict safety regulations, and Bestseller counters that it only incinerates items that are damaged, the idea that high street fashion brands incinerate potentially valuable resources shines a light on one of the main problems currently residing in the industry.

The global fashion industry produces approximately 100 billion garments per year, feeding consumers insatiable appetite for new clothes. But as clothing consumption rates increase, as does the end result - textile, leather and apparel waste. The fashion industry is said to produce 92 million tons of solid waste each year, according to data from Greenpeace, but most never think to ask what are brands and retailers doing with this waste? High street retailers such as H&M and Bestseller, the parent company behind Jack & Jones, Vero Moda and Vila, use a number of marketing tactics to encourage consumers to recycle their unwanted clothing in an effort to become more sustainable. However, at the same time, they are incinerating and shredding unwanted, damaged or potentially harmful clothing behind closed doors according to new media reports, sending out a very mixed message.

“We are just looking at the tip of the iceberg when it comes to waste”

Unfortunately, when it comes to disposing of unwanted, unsafe or excess garments, aka waste, incineration is a common industry practice. “We are just looking at the tip of the iceberg when it comes to waste,” says Orsola de Castro, Founder and Creative Director of Fashion Revolution to FashionUnited over the phone. “Waste is the next big issue that fashion industry must overcome. It really is shocking how much factories and brands waste.” Also known as the Queen of Upcycling, de Castro is no stranger to the fashion industry and the challenges it faces when it comes to waste. She has spent the past 20 years of her career trying to navigate the industry problems with waste as a designer, consultant and creative director.

“The issues of incineration when it comes to fashion waste is nothing new. It is something that brands and factories alike have been doing for years,” she points out. “Behind the scenes, factories are quite open about it, brands are open about it, but on the consumer side, there is zero transparency concerning how, when, where and what they are incinerating. Consumers are just unaware that this is something that has been going on for a long time.” Dr Christina Dean, founder and CEO of Hong Kong-based NGO Redress, author and co-founder of luxury upcycle label BYT, has also witnessed first hand the industry's problems managing waste. Having spent the majority of her career fighting against waste in the fashion industry, she strongly agrees with de Castro. “Really the report is not a shock,” she says to FashionUnited. “It is yesterday's news as it happening everywhere in the industry, across the entire board. The only difference is that H&M and Bestseller got caught. I know many companies are doing it.”

“[Operation X report] is yesterday's news, it’s happening everywhere in the industry”

This lack of transparency concerning waste disposal explains why consumers around the globe were shocked when Danish TV show 'Operation X' from TV2 aired its expose on H&M and Bestseller incinerating what they deemed to be usable clothing. Since the show aired, H&M has shared its own internal reports which highlight unsafe levels of lead were found in one item destroyed and suspicious signs of mould in the other, which is why they were incinerated. Bestseller has published its own ‘waste agenda’ online, stressing that damaged products are ‘disposed in the most economically and environmentally suitable way: down-cycling’ and are incinerated to create energy.

While the majority of the public is against the destruction of usable clothing, in some cases it is the only way to safely dispose of textiles containing hazardous materials or chemicals. “When it comes to air pollution, water pollution and chemical pollution, the best environmental approach is to remove them from system,” continues Dr Dean, who adds: “I am by no means a chemical expert, but I believe removing any harmful toxins from the environment is beneficial to the overall health of the planet. Any company would not want to knowingly recycle or reuse known toxins.” One may wonder why clothing or textiles containing harmful chemicals are made in the first place. In part, this is linked to the emergence of the fast-fashion business model, which sees high street fashion retailers launching new collections each day. In order to produce more clothes at a lower price, many brands produce apparel overseas, operating massive supply chains across numerous developing countries, making it hard to ensure every product is up to standard when it comes to health and safety regulations.

"Any company would not want to knowingly recycle or reuse known toxins”

Interestingly enough, around the same time that 'Operation X' aired its investigation, H&M announced that it had invested in Swedish company re:newcell, a firm which uses new techniques to recycle used cotton, viscose, and other cellulosic fibres and turn them into a new, sustainable dissolving pulp which can be used to make new textile fibres. "Honestly, what happened in this case of these brands and their claims around mould damage sound like a real tall order, as you can recycle nearly everything, especially virgin fibres which are the holy grail of recycling,” points out Dean. “Burning unwanted clothing seems like a huge contradiction to H&M's marketing tactics and it is disappointing to hear they do so.”

But it is not just clothing that is being incinerated and it not just high street retailers like H&M who are destroying their unwanted or harmful products this way, stresses de Castro. “It is leather too! Luxury brands burn unwanted clothing and leather goods as well. Luxury brands are the worst when it comes to incineration, as they would rather burn unwanted or damaged leather products then sell them as it may damage their reputation. Fashion Revolution is now trying to bring this issue to the surface and make a change.” In Fashion Revolution new Fanzine, ‘Loved Clothes Last’, the global movement aims to make consumers more aware of this well-kept hidden secret and is encouraging consumers to speak out against this practice.

“This revelation of burning clothes is likely to sting consumers the most”

“This is our biggest weapon in the fight against fashion waste - when consumers hear high street retailers like H&M are burning usable clothing it makes them feel resentful,” adds de Castro. She maintains that it is easier for consumers to wrap their head around the idea that high street retailers like H&M and Primark burn unwanted clothing rather than recycle them because their garments are cheaper and often seen as less valuable and disposable in comparison to those from luxury fashion brands. But the fact remains - all areas of the fashion industry use the same practices to dispose of unwanted products. “Imagine if we were telling consumers that a luxury brand burned 4 containers of clothing because they changed their head of design? Or because the fabric used to make the collection had a tiny fault? 4 containers of clothing that they could have still bought and worn and never known the difference.”

Which is why both Dr Dean and de Castro believe it is unfair to solely point the finger of blame at H&M or Bestseller. “We cannot demonise high street retailers when every area of the industry is involved in such practices,” notes the founder of Fashion Revolution. “Of course H&M is currently being scrutinized now, but I am just pointing out that the luxury fashion industry is just as culpable as them, if not worse.” Dr Dean, who has collaborated with H&M in the past, argues that many industry and media members are using the report from 'Operation X' to paint H&M black when it is consciously making an effort to improve its practices and be more sustainable. “I am still fond of H&M and know many people, truly ethical and responsible people who want to make the world a better place who work there. In this case, H&M has been made a scapegoat for something for something that everyone does. Even though their business model is not sustainable, H&M is trying to change - it is pointless to beat them with a stick when they are down.”

“Brands should take responsibility for their unwanted clothes"

Nevertheless, both fashion veterans believe the fashion industry needs to change its ways when it comes to managing waste. Brands and retailers are in this situation because burning unwanted textiles is still the cheapest option for most companies to dispose of them and this mentality needs to change in order to bring systematic change. “We need to slow down and look at different business models to bring about real change,” says de Castro. “There needs to be a big shift in the industry in how we look at waste and how we view high street retailers like Primark and H&M. First of all, we need to stop calling it waste and start seeing it for what is it - a resource.”

By changing attitudes towards fashion waste and seeing it in a new light, more brands and retailers as well as consumers will be encouraged to recycle their clothes rather than dispose of them. In addition, designers and buyers should be retrained to see textile waste as a vital part of their designs by embracing upcycling techniques, adds de Castro, something which most graduate and emerging designers are already doing. “Did you see Graduate Fashion Week this season? Almost every designer incorporated some type of upcycling or zero waste technique in the their collections,” she notes. “Upcycling fits their aesthetics and their creativity while offering a viable solution for the fashion industry’s problem with waste.”

Fashion brands need to take responsibility for their waste and find sustainable solutions

Both believe it is time for fashion brands and retailers to take full responsibility for their excess products and find solutions which do not include destroying materials which can still be used. By producing less garments and make more responsible orders, retailers and brands will have less excess products to handle at the end of each season. And rather than destroying them to make room for more, de Castro believes brands and retailers should take responsibility for them by passing them along to other designers and brands could use them to make new items. “I would more than happily take one of H&M 4,500 stores and use it as a base to store faulty, unwanted fabrics and textiles and pass them along to young brands and designers who want to use them.”

Although most brands and retailers rather make new fabrics and materials to make new collections to entice consumers, de Castro argues that upcycling is one of the most viable solutions to the fashion industry problem with waste. “Fashion brands embrace of upcycling is slow, but it is the only creative solution in between the current state of the fashion industry and the advancement of technological solutions, as technology will offer us the solution in the end. But we are not there yet and until we get there we have to find solutions for what we are doing now with textile waste, what we are doing with the products that are being burned.”

Homepage Photo by: William Farr, an installation artist and image maker

Photos: Lance Lee, courtesy of the Greenpeace Detox Campaign

Vivian Hendriksz

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Thursday, 19 October 2017

London - Handbag and accessories label Kipling is set to launch a 90s inspired capsule collection in honour of its 30th anniversary.

The capsule collection is a throwback to the brand’s roots as it sees Kipling revisiting the styles is first started out with. Founded in Antwerp in 1987 by Paul van de Velde and Xavier Kegels, the brand has grown into a casual fashion brand since then, offering its brands in 67 countries around the world.

The 90s inspired collection is set to offer 5 styles in 5 colourways, including a sporty fanny pack, a small backpack, small shoulder bags as well as a hold-all. Each of the handbags silhouettes in the collection has been inspired by designs from the brand's archives and given a 90s twist. The ‘vintage’ collection features authentic touches, such as Kipling’s authentic round logo, large zippers and its iconic monkey keychain. The bags will be released in key colours, including yellow, red, white, blue and black.

“We started by going back 30 years into our archives. And we discovered that the bags are just as timeless, modern and relevant as they were when they launched for the first time,” said Jurgen Derycke, omnichannel marketing manager at Kipling. “By relaunching these in their original styles we get an authentic and nostalgic collection that is still on-trend. We have seen the major success of the 90s trend, so we have gone back to basics for this collection.”

Kipling 90s ‘vintage’ collection is set to launch online and in stores in time for the start of the holiday season at the end of November.

Photo: Kipling 90s collection, courtesy of Kipling

Danielle Wightman-Stone

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Wednesday, 18 October 2017

Tommy Hilfiger is extending its adaptive apparel collection to adults, offering clothing featuring modifications such as velcro closures, magnetic flies, and adjusted leg openings to make it easier for people of all abilities to get dressed.

The launch follows the success of adaptive apparel for children last year, where the American fashion label collaborated with MagnaReady and Runway of Dreams, a nonprofit that works to broaden clothing options for people with disabilities.

The adult line is based upon pieces from the spring/summer 2018 Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection and consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles, with modifications including front and back closures to help pull clothes over the head, velcro closures, magnetic flies in trousers, jeans and chinos, and adjusted leg openings and hems that accommodate leg braces and orthotics.

“Inclusivity and democratisation of fashion have always been at the core of my brand’s DNA,” said designer Tommy Hilfiger in a press statement. “These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering the differently abled community. It developed the adult lines following the incredible response to the children’s collection.”

The collection launches online at tommy.com from October 18.

Vivian Hendriksz

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Tuesday, 17 October 2017

IN-DEPTH London - Swedish fashion retailer H&M stands accused of burning 12 tonnes of unsold garments per year in spite of its ongoing sustainability efforts to close the loop in fashion.

The fashion giant is said to have incinerated approximately 60 tonnes of usable, unsold clothing over the past few years, according to research from Danish tv-programme Operation X from TV2. H&M firmly denies these claims.

The Danish TV show first began investigating what H&M does with new apparel it does not sell this June and a number of inspections led them to the waste disposal company KARA/NOVEREN in Denmark. Journalists from Operation X are said to have seen first hand how garments from H&M were delivered to the processing company before being destroyed.

H&M said to have incinerated 60 tonnes of new, usable clothing since 2013

Approximately 30,000 cowboy-themed trousers for children and dark blue ladies pants with the price-tags still intact were handed in, a total of 1,580 kilos. Further investigations found that the waste disposal firm had incinerated 60 tonnes of new apparel from H&M since 2013. Else Skjold, a professor of sustainable design at the Kolding Design School in Denmark stated that H&M is destroying clothing as a result of overproduction.

In the past fashion retailers only production four collections per year on average, But thanks to the rise of fast-fashion, companies like Zara an H&M have new product drops every week. "It's dramatic if we're talking about fashion because the trends in fashion are temporary. If something is not in fashion, then it can't be sold anymore," said Skjold to Operation X.

H&M has stepped forward and calls the claims false. "This is of course not true," said a spokesperson for H&M to FashionUnited. "The clothes featured in the program are stopped orders that have been sent to incineration because of mold or not complying with our strict chemical restrictions, which is according to our routines for stopped orders."

H&M denies claims it destroys safe, usable clothing

The Swedish fashion retailer has incorporated sustainability as one of its core values. Over the years it has invested in a number of recycling initiatives to encourage customers to recycle their unwanted clothing and launched collections made with post-consumer textile waste. H&M has also increased the percentage of organic cotton and sustainable materials used in its collections and aims to solely use sustainable cotton in all its collections by 2020. It also aims to move to a circular business model, minimise and reuse all its waste.

"Circularity is at the core of our sustainability strategy and we work hard to ensure that we maximize the use and the value of our products in line with the principles of the circular economy and waste hierarchy," added the spokesperson. "Incineration is, therefore, the very last option that we only allow under very special circumstances when re-use or recycling is not an option, such as when our products are contaminated by mold or not complying with our strict chemical restrictions."

However, Operation X maintains that H&M is destroying usable apparel. Following H&M's explanation, Operation X journalists took two different pairs of trousers sent to KARA/NOVEREN to be incinerated and sent them to an independent laboratory for testing. Journalists also purchased two similar pairs of trousers available for sale in an ordinary H&M store and sent them off to testing, to see if there was a difference in the chemicals and substances present in the trousers to be destroyed and those purchased.

Operation X puts H&M's garments to the test

The four pairs of trousers were tested for a wide range of harmful chemicals that pose a health risk according to EU and Danish regulations as well as potentially hazardous bacteria, such as Ecoli. According to the tests, the trousers sent for incineration did not contain any harmful levels of chemicals and normal deposits of bacteria, similar to what one would expect to trousers sold in stores.

H&M has countered that cowboy trousers sent for incineration contained an "increased level of lead" in some of its metal detailing and that the dark blue women's trousers were found to be suspicious of carrying mould. Operation X claims that none of the trousers tested carried any traces of mold and the level of lead found on the cowboy trousers was only one-tenth of the permissible limit value, even less than the lead value on the trousers purchased in store. In spite of Operation X's accusations, H&M stresses the tests performed by Operation X differ from their own and it is following safety regulations to keep its customers safe. In order to prove its point, H&M has made the test results publicly available online.

"The products media refers to have been tested in external laboratories. The test results show that one of the products is mold infested and the other product contains too high levels of lead," added H&M in a statement shared with FashionUnited. "According to the test we have, the test for lead performed by the Danish program didn’t include the whole garment and not the part affected by too high levels of lead. The other test performed by the Danish program didn’t include tests for mold. This is the reason why our tests differ."

H&M: 'We are puzzled why some media is suggesting that we would destroy other products than those required. There is absolutely no reason for us to do such a thing'

The Swedish fashion giant noted that when test results show that certain products do not fulfill their safety regulations they cannot be sold or recycled and are sent for destruction in accordance with their global safety routine. "H&M has one of the strictest Chemical Restrictions in the industry and we do regular testing, often in external laboratories. Accordingly, the restrictions often go further than the law demands as we want our customers to feel totally safe to use our products." H&M added that other products which cannot be sold due to other reasons are always donated to charity, re-used through recycling companies.

This is not the first time that H&M stands accused of destroying usable clothing. In early 2010 the Swedish fashion retailer was accused of cutting up and dumping unwanted garments at a store on 35th Street in New York in a New York Times expose. At the time H&M vowed that it would make sure these practices would never happen again.

Photos: Erdem x H&M, courtesy og H&M Group

Danielle Wightman-Stone

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Tuesday, 17 October 2017

The Burberry Foundation has announced a five-year partnership with London-based sustainable accessories brand Elvis and Kresse to tackle the waste created by the leather industry.

Elvis and Kresse, which is known for re-engineering waste material through innovative craftsmanship, has received a grant from the Burberry Foundation to support their work and will receive at least 120 tonnes of leather off-cuts from the production of Burberry products to make into a range of accessories and homeware.

The new products will be designed and sold by Elvis and Kresse, with half of the profits being donated to charitable causes focused on renewable energy, while the remaining half will be reinvested by Elvis and Kresse to expand their work in reducing and reusing waste, protecting the environment and inspiring craftspeople.

Christopher Bailey, a trustee of The Burberry Foundation and president and chief creative officer of Burberry Group, said: “We are delighted to be supporting the work of Elvis and Kresse and providing them with the leather off cuts to create truly innovative products.

“Leather is a precious material, yet many of the off cuts generated by the design process are seen as worthless. We believe that this can change, and we are proud to lead the way in showing how creativity and craftsmanship can play a part in solving this issue.”

In addition to creating new leather products, the partnership will also generate apprenticeship and work experience opportunities with Elvis and Kresse and aim to reach thousands through public events, competitions and workshops.

Burberry Foundation partners with Elvis and Kresse to reduce leather waste

The move comes as a report from the United Nations reveals that at least 800,000 tonnes of leather waste is produced by the global leather industry. Burberry notes that even when patterns are carefully planned to maximise the hide, the process inevitably creates small offcuts.

“These are high quality, unused, freshly tanned and dyed leather, but fall to the workshop floor as seemingly unusable pieces. Elvis and Kresse has designed a system that transforms these fragments into components, which are then hand woven into a new kind of hide that is unrestricted by size or shape,” explains Burberry.

Kresse Wesling, co-founder of Elvis and Kresse, added: “Elvis & Kresse was founded to rescue London’s fire hose. When we decided to tackle the much, much larger leather problem, we knew we would need a brave partner.

“We are grateful for the support of the Burberry Foundation and are truly excited to scale this solution, and magnify its impact. This is the kind of work we are made for and this is the kind of partnership that will change the future of luxury.”

The grant from the Burberry Foundation to Elvis and Kresse is in line with Burberry’s new Responsibility agenda, of which a principal goal is to invent approaches to revaluing waste over the next five years, the British fashion house said.

Image: courtesy of Burberry Foundation

Danielle Wightman-Stone

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Tuesday, 17 October 2017

The clothing and textile industry has an “ecological footprint which is far from sustainable” due to the 1.7 billion tones of carbon dioxide it emits annually, states a new report from WWF Switzerland.

In the ‘Changing fashion: The clothing and textile industry at the brink of radical transformation’ report, the WWF says that the fashion industry produces “an environmental impact which is far from sustainable”, from carbon dioxide to extensive water use and pollution, as well as the 2.1 billion tonnes of waste it produces annually.

Global consumption of clothes has doubled between 2000 and 2014, and today, on a global average, every person buys 5 kilograms of clothes per year, but in Europe and the USA this figure is as high as 16 kilograms. With overall apparel consumption projected to rise even further, from 62 million tonnes in 2015 to 102 million tonnes in 2030, the WWF is highlighting that environmental impact should be at the forefront of fashion brands and retailers.

The WWF adds: “Doing ‘business as usual’ will not be an option for the industry nor for the planet in the long run. To stay financially successful, companies will find it necessary to reduce their environmental impact and to respect the ecological boundaries of our planet.”

To highlight its concerns it gave an environmental rating to 12 major brands, based on data provided by Oekom research AG, with regards to environmental topics such as climate change, water use and pollution, raw materials and stakeholder engagement and then classified the companies into visionary, ambitious, upper midfield, lower midfield, latecomers/intransparent categories.

WWF ranks top fashion brands on environmental impact

The results showed that none of the surveyed companies was ranked in the highest classification of ‘visionary’, however, Swedish fashion chain H&M was classified as ‘ambitious’.

Nike, Adidas and Mammut were ranked in the ‘upper midfield’, while Hugo Boss, Odlo, Calida and VF Corporation, which includes Timberland and The North Face, ended up in the ‘lower midfield’, and Triumph, Chicorée, PKZ and Tally Weijl were classified into ‘latecomers/intransparent' group, which means that they take very limited action regarding environmental issues, or do not disclose any information.

The report reveals that more than half of the companies have not taken any steps at all to counter climate change, while the WWF added that there were are also “significant gaps” regarding the use of sustainable raw materials, the use of water, and the prevention of water pollution and hazardous substances.

In response the WWF is calling upon the fashion companies to make the following improvements: to apply a strategy to operate within the planet’s ecological boundaries with regards climate change, water management and stewardship, raw materials, joint environmental management in the supply chain, chemicals management, investment, stakeholder engagement and responsibility for public policy, and new business models to decouple consumption from resource use.

The WWF has also stated that consumers can contribute to reducing the industry’s environmental impact by: buying less clothes; simplifying their style and wardrobe; wash, care for and repair their clothes; buy second-hand clothes, swap or rent their outfits, or bring them to a recycling facility; and buy organic, green and high quality items.

In addition, the WWF is calling on consumers to “use their voice” to inform friends, to provide feedback to their preferred brands, to vote on relevant public policy, and to support non-governmental organisations.

Images: courtesy of H&M

AFP

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Tuesday, 17 October 2017

In the wake of revelations about disgraced Hollywood producer Harvey Weinstein, American model Cameron Russell took to Instagram to share her followers' experiences of sexual abuse in the fashion industry, posting dozens of anonymous stories over a number of days.

Russell, 30, invited people to anonymously share their stories with her Thursday night, which she then reposted to her 90,000 followers over the following days using the hashtag #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse.

"Hearing about #harveyweinstein this week has sparked conversations about how widespread and how familiar his behavior is," the model and activist, who has modelled for the likes of Chanel and Victoria's Secret, wrote.

"Nothing in these stories should be a revelation for those working in our industry. Instead it was the beginning of a power shift. We are speaking to each other, we are speaking up, we are speaking to lawyers, and we are speaking to well-resourced reporters," she added, calling upon magazines and agencies to take action and stop working with "predators."

The anonymous accounts ranged from recent experiences to some dating back to up to 20 years. They mostly involved photographers or stylists who sexually abused or attempted to abuse models -- primarily women, sometimes minors, and occasionally men too. In many of the stories, victims remembered being reassured that this kind of behavior was normal in the industry.

In one message posted Monday, a contributor revealed reading the stories made her "recall some experiences that I had long forgotten about because I thought they were normal. Unfortunately every single person in this industry has been personally assaulted or has seen it happen."

Sharing the stories was "only the first step in a long process to make sexual harassment, assault, and violence unacceptable," Russell wrote on Instagram, adding she hoped an "experienced investigative team can support the work of holding the fashion industry accountable."

Russell, who is signed to celebrated agency Elite, made a name for herself in 2012 with a "TED talk," during which she advised young girls not to pursue an "unsustainable" career in fashion. She warned the job deprives models of "any creative control," adding that her success was only due to winning the "genetic lottery." (AFP)

Danielle Wightman-Stone

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Tuesday, 17 October 2017

Sportswear brand Puma is teaming up with influential photographer Gunner Stahl on an exclusive collection of headwear for autumn/winter 2017.

Stahl, a self-taught photographer from Atlanta, has gained notoriety for capturing intimate and never-before-seen moments with artists including Kanye West, The Weeknd and Miley Cyrus, and for his debut fashion collection with Puma he has utilised his “streetwear aesthetic and energy” states the brand, on a capsule collection consisting of five headwear styles that bear his signature style and name.

The first collection to drop, ‘For You, Mum’ is a tribute to his mother who passed away due to breast cancer. He has designed a Beanie and Cap in Prism Pink to help promote awareness for October Breast Cancer Awareness Month.

The second drop ‘The Fall Pack’, which launches in November, has been designed with Stahl’s friends in mind, with tech/performance, OG classic and streetwear beanies and caps available in four colours.

“This is more than clothing, fashion or hype,” explains Gunner Stahl about his collection. “This collaboration gives me the opportunity to give back to breast cancer and honour my mother, which means the most to me.”

The Puma x Gunner Stahl headwear collection, ‘For You, Mom’ will drop on October 20, while ‘The Fall Pack’ will drop exclusively at ComplexCon in Long Beach, CA on November 4, followed by a wider release on November 10.

Images: courtesy of Puma