- Esmee Blaazer |
Retailers attempt to shift previous’ season pieces with final reduction sales, as they prepare for the arrival of new Autumn/Winter collections. Set to be filled with with millennial reds and pinks, sometimes a combination of the two, the colour in focus for this season’s collections is distinctly purple though.
Inextricably linked to the late Prince, the Pantone Color Institute has recently named a new colour ‘Prince Purple’, with the colour code ‘Love Symbol No.2’. Seen all over the AW17/18 collections, FashionUnited have collected the stand out purple pieces.
Marni
Chloe
Alberta Ferretti
Andrew GN
Acne Studios
Christian Wijnants
Gucci
Prince Purple creates stark colour contrast
Several fashion houses accentuated their looks with Prince Purple, making for interesting colour combinations. Ellery boots, and Calvin Klein’s trousers for example:
Prince Purple was also seen in the AW17/18 collections of Elie Saab, Missoni, Sies Marjan, Balenciaga, Akris, Chloé, Dries van Noten and Andrew Gn.
Predicting the colour trends for next season, Pantone has highlighted the top 10 colours we are likely to witness in next season’s designs:
Pantone’s top 10 colour trends for autumn 17
Photos: Autumn/Winter 17 Fashion House Collections via Catwalkpictures.com
- FashionUnited |
The age of exploring new paradigms in fashion presentation is upon us. And all arrows point away from the anachronistic machinery and elitism of old, and towards a more democratic open-plan environment. Here are seven significant changes in the pipeline, if not already in process:
Concrete footprint
Rental of any kind, whether showrooms or brick and mortar stores, has soared beyond many price ranges in fashion capitals like New York and London, but luckily now more than ever there are other options to get product seen. Who would buy eyeglasses online? asked doubters when offered the opportunity to invest in 2010 e-commerce start-up, Warby Parker, now estimated to be worth 1.2 billion dollars by The Wall Street Journal. The rise of the pop-up store allows brands to create a spontaneous and temporary, personalized interactive retail environment––choose a cocktail bar to enhance the social experience or a well-appointed townhouse to create intimacy. Richard Lim, head of business information at the British Retail Consortium is quoted in Retail Week as saying, “We’re only at the beginning of the pop-up revolution.” One can’t help imagining that pop-up events featuring a group of like-minded brands launching together might not be too far off. Pop-up fashion weeks?
Trends
“Today, the idea of a bunch people sitting in a room and deciding what the colors are going to be in two years’ time or what materials are going to be used in three years’ time is a complete nonsense,” says Marc Worth, co-founder of trend forecasting site, WGSN. The latest viral sensation can be all-conquering and then die off before traditional trend forecasting firms like Perclers or Trend Union in Paris, which traditionally work six months in advance and produce beautifully bound tomes of poetic inspiration imagery to sell to companies, even have it on their radar. Ideas now happen overnight which, combined with the industry’s lingering uncertainty of the bi-annual model of showing collections, makes any kind of long-term predictions redundant. Boho, military, 80s and 90s all appear on runways in the same season and the voices of celebrities, bloggers, consumers, and designers jostle for authority. With the rise of “influencers,” brands are now attaching themselves to lifestyles as opposed to trends, resulting in partnerships such as Alexa Chung for Marks & Spencer, Madewell and AG Jeans, or Man Repeller and NARS.
Models
“I don’t care about models. I care about faces,” says Gucci’s Alessandro Michele, “It’s a way to show humanity. It’s funny I think the era of ‘model’ is ended.” In today’s climate of inclusivity, the latest face is most likely to be the designer’s friend or someone spotted on the street, perhaps with physical characteristics previously ignored by fashion (Adwoah Aboa’s freckles or Winnie Harlow’s vitiligo) and with Instagram offering up a steady stream of model cards in the form of selfies, and “plandids,” candid and planned unironic head-to-toe posed photos, the need for casting directors and the traditional model go-see is diminished, while the opportunity of securing unique faces to represent your brand is heightened.
Haute exclusivité
Paris’s couture fortress was challenged more than ever for Fall 2017 with American sportswear label, Proenza Schouler, and fashion-as-art label, Rodarte, descending on the city to show their Spring 2018 ready-to-wear during the haute couture schedule. “We’ve been embroidering for, like, a month now,” said Proenza’s Jack McCullough. “That feather jacket took a month to make. There’s such a cottage industry of that here; three-people ateliers. A loom in an apartment…But it's, like, a 400-year-old loom!" Also included in the four-day event were Resort collections from Miu Miu and Hermès. In this era of disruption, the carousel of fashion weeks, which traditionally had editors complaining and overextended designers short-circuiting, could slow down as a result of further mergers.
Stylists
When Rag & Bone engaged Glen Luchford for Fall to create a series of Polaroid portraits of famous faces like Mikhail Baryshnikov, Amber Valleta and Radiohead’s Thom Yorke, the celebrities were invited to style themselves in the collection. It was an opportunity for them to connect with the brand in a more authentic way than the industry practice of paying celebrities to wear their clothes as a straightforward business transaction. This process thus eliminates the need for those well-paid stylists, and indeed make-up and hair professionals, who swoop into famous houses each season to take over at the last minute the creative vision from the designer and put a fresh spin on the collection.
Runway shows
Two years ago when Givenchy, with the help of The City of New York, offered up 1,200 tickets to the general public for their NYC show, effectively opening up a previously cordoned-off world to the average person, the seeds of change were shown. Growing from that, Rag & Bone’’s creative director, Marcus Wainwright, says, “We’d done something like 25 shows in a row since we started, and I think the times are changing. I woke depressed after the election, as everyone else, and felt that there were no rules anymore.” The success of his February Polaroid project clearly got him thinking: “Part of me questions why you have to do it in September. Creating something powerful that represents the brand and engaging with the fashion press is obviously very important, but is Fashion Week the best time to do that?” Vetements designer, Demna Gvasalia, announced in June to widespread gasps, “We are not going to show in the classical system anymore. I got bored. I think it needs to enter a new chapter. Fashion shows are not the best tool.”
City-specific fashion weeks
For years, London has been viewed as the creative breeding ground of young designers, Milan the showcase for traditional family-based craftsmanship, Paris, the city of light and couture, and New York, the capital of commerce-driven apparel. But McQueen, Burberry, and Westwood began some years ago to jump ship for Milan and Paris; Moschino, then Armani, showed in London; Givenchy in NYC; then Rodarte and Hood By Air turned their backs on NYC for Paris, followed by Proenza Schouler… Who can keep track and do we really need to anymore? What about a bi-annual world championship of fashion where global brands gather in a different city each time?
No swipe left response
You can’t get more analog than a Polaroid camera which provides a single image with no delete or filter option. But the Rag & Bone experiment highlights an important aspect of fashion that we had lost sight of in our race to compete with a sped-up system, Instagram’s immediate gratification, and that apparently insatiable Veruca Salt-like consumer. Clothes are analog. They are IRL sensory items in which we wrap our bodies. They are like hugs, the epitome of touchy-feely. No device or online interaction can replicate that. And the more forward-thinking in our industry are beginning to recognize it.
By contributing guest editor Jackie Mallon, who is on the teaching faculty of several NYC fashion programmes and is the author of Silk for the Feed Dogs, a novel set in the international fashion industry.
Images: catwalkpictures, Empty Bleeker Street storefronts author’s own; Rag & Bone Facebook; officialwinnieharlow.com; New York Fashion Week Facebook
- FashionUnited |
Los Angeles based label A.L.C has collaborated with Nike to produce their own Nike Cortez trainer.
Featured in the brand’s previous lookbooks, the classic Nike Cortez has been redesigned in three colours - black, terracotta and cream accompanied with brass lace tips, snakeskin on the heel, inspirational quotes on the foot beds and longer laces - fitting with the style of the brand’s Autumn 2017 collection.
Do it, Own it
Founder and designer at A.L.C, Andrea Lieberman said "The Cortez has always been my go-to shoe.” “I design A.L.C. clothes with a sneaker in mind, and I think people have started to style their daily outfits with sneakers in mind, too. The Cortez shares that 'never not hustling' spirit that define both the Nike Cortez and A.L.C."
The collaborative Cortez collection will first be released on August 25, exclusively available at Nike x Nordstrom boutiques and Nordstrom The Grove.
Later on August 28, the collection will become available at nike.com, Nike+ SNKRS, as well as Net-A-Porter, select Nordstrom stores and A.L.C.
Photos courtesy of Nike
- FashionUnited |
Named as Puma’s global ambassador and creative collaborator last October, The Weeknd aka Abel Tesfaye has finally released the first part of his highly anticipated collection with the global sportswear brand: Puma x XO.
Split into three drops to add further anticipation, the first part of the collection: PUMA Parallel features a leather sneaker boot inspired by military and utilitarian gear. The design incorporates Puma’s Ignite cushioning technology, unveiled by the Weeknd at a Puma launch party in Las Vegas last night.
The Weeknd commented on the collection, saying, “We’ve been building the XO brand for a long time now. It’s gone beyond product and the PUMA x XO collab is an extension of everything we’ve been doing. For XO, partnering with a powerhouse like PUMA and having the ability to create a new aesthetic is an amazing opportunity.”
Set to be on sale from August 24, Puma Parallel will be available at selected sneaker and fashion retailers worldwide.
The second and third drops of the collection are set to be released in the next few weeks. Teased by The Weeknd at the launch party, the further Puma XO drops will reportedly include bomber jackets, boots, and kimonos finished with camo, suede and denim.
Photos courtesy of Puma
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
Iconix Brand Group has announced that it is to relaunch original sneaker brand, Pony with a “product of New York” marketing campaign fronted by Brooklyn-born hip hop artists Joey Bada$$.
Pony first appeared in 1972 as a casualwear brand and utilised its heritage as being born in New York as the sneakers were designed to keep up with the fast-paced motion of the city streets. Forty years later Iconix is looking to take advantage of the resurgence of retro brands in the athleisure space to give Pony a new lease of life.
To celebrate the relaunch, Pony has modernised its iconic Topstar sneaker featuring the brand’s distinct chevron, which was worn by the likes of Dan Marino and Pele and seen as integral in the creation of present-day sneaker culture, and teamed up wth hip-hop superstar and actor Joey Bada$$, who serves as muse and model for the autumn collection.
The iconic sneaker sits within the brand’s unisex autumn collection that will reintroduce silhouettes which have been reimagined using a contemporary spin that includes modern tooling, alongside fresh colours, fabrics, and materials. Pony’s patent-leather high tops come in burgundy and stark white, as well as a tonal nude Topstar, while the apparel features T-shirts and sweatshirts with the Pony chevron on. The range will be available at retailers including Urban Outfitters, Zumiez, and SneakerVilla.
Pony signs up Joey Bada$$ as the official face of its relaunch campaign
In addition to fronting the relaunch campaign, Bada$$ is also collaborating with the brand on a signature footwear collection, inspired by his connection to New York, which will be previewed later the year. He will also take Pony fans behind-the-scenes to his favourite New York hotspots and backstage as he prepares for upcoming performances.
"I carry New York with me everywhere I go. It's almost written across my forehead. I am a product of New York, working with Product of New York and there are so many parallels between myself and the brand," said Joey Bada$$ on the partnership. "The fact that it's an OG classic brand, and that's basically my sound – OG, classic, timeless – I just thought it was a match made in heaven.”
Iconix Brand Group chief marketing officer Jamie Cygielman added: "Joey is a force in entertainment, music and fashion, whose New York roots and relaxed yet purposeful sense of style make him the ideal partner as we relaunch our Pony brand.
"We're excited to present a reinvention of the brand's classic styles that historically had such a tremendous impact on sneaker culture to a new consumer, while also invoking nostalgia in original Pony fans.”
Pony also added that the 360-degree relaunch will also include a roster of male and female ambassadors, which will be enlisted to “tap into their strong digital presence and use his or her voice to redefine the cultural landscape”. The ambassadors will be announced to coincide with exclusive sneaker drops in the coming months.
Image: courtesy of Pony/Iconix Brand Group
- FashionUnited |
OPINION What should I wear? This question arises often but with particular urgency when working in the fashion industry where one has to dress to impress. Be it for a job interview or a particularly busy day at the office: FashionUnited knows the no-go criteria and how to make a good impression.
The usual business attire in 'normal' jobs consists of a pantsuit or pencil skirt with blazer in neutral colours, combined with a white blouse.
Fun fact: Apart from one white blouse with frills, I do not own anything of that sort. The last time I wore such a 'uniform' was in college when I worked as a hostess for a well-known bank at a trade fair. The money I earned, I quickly invested in clothes that one needs as a fashion professional: a woolen coat by Max Mara, Acne boots and something by Margiela.
Three rules for a lasting impression
Especially in the fashion business, it is impossible to recommend a particular outfit. Every job is different and everyone's boss is different too. But there are a few rules of thumb.
The first and non-negotiable rule: a well-groomed appearance. Regardless of what you wear, make sure to acquaint it - even fleetingly - with an iron. A lint brush may also be a good idea.
The second golden rule: Always wear one unusual piece and have a good story about it ready. The fashion industry appreciates if you show that you are taking it seriously but at the same time, be fluent in sarcasm. At the moment, everything that Paris Hilton would wear is also good for you.
The third golden rule: Do bring your Supreme brick to work. Other fashion insiders will understand.
International Dresscode
If in doubt: Black is the uniform of fashion professionals - especially in New York and Berlin. In London, it is important to show one's true colour(s), whereas you can be a bit sexy and more extroverted in Italy. And in Paris - well, if you managed to score a job in Paris, then you will most certainly already know how to dress. If you have been called for a job interview in Paris, then follow one of the numerous ‚How to dress like a Parisian/French Woman‘-Guides. By now, there should be a separate section for them on Amazon. In any case, you should either wear brand new sneakers (worn out ones are a big no-no) or heels. In Berlin, the opposite is true.
Stay cool in summer
The sun is beating down mercilessly. But 35 degrees Celsius plus are not an excuse for dressing sloppily - not in fashion. For women: The new keyword is body positivity. That means, you may wear what you feel like, when you feel like it. Our tip: Always cover your breasts, as least the nipples. For men: Resign yourself to the fact that you will have to sweat. Short pants and half-sleeved shirts are a no-no. After all, you have to be at a disadvantage somewhere, right? Just see it as one week in the year that you have to pay for your usual priviledges. And thankfully, European summers are short.
Last but not least: Even if you do not have one, pick a favourite designer. You will face that question sooner or later and if you cannot produce an answer, your cover will be blown. The best is if you pick someone from the '90s because then you will prove that you know your history and that you also know what is hip. I would suggest Comme des Garçons, Walter Van Beirendonck or Helmut Lang.
During the month of August FashionUnited will focus on Work in Fashion. For
all reads on the theme, click here.
This article was previously published on FashionUnited.de Translated and edited by: Simone Preuss
Illustrations: Studio Iva (IGM: studio_iva)
- FashionUnited |
Trendstop's catwalk team brings you the latest accessories themes emerging at the international Resort collections across bags, belts and headwear categories. These key looks will be impacting on the accessories market for the upcoming spring/summer season and beyond. Our inspirational seasonal reports are curated by our experts, evaluating each individual trend's commercial value and longevity giving you the optimum level of in-depth analysis to inform your decision making.
This week, FashionUnited readers get an exclusive insight into three influential accessory styles that will be key to the SS18 season. The Fashion Pack Valise updates traditional luggage looks with a modern take on retro themes. A strong vintage narrative is also in evidence among the 50s inspired printed headwraps and sweetheart headbands of The Turban Knot. The athleisure trend shows no sign of slowing own as activewear apparel informs the sporting stripes and functional hardware of D-Ring Athletics.
Fashion Pack Valise
The traditional valise bag is reworked for SS18 with an on-trend retro-modern approach. Structured leather or canvas fabrications maintain the boxy profile of classic accessory silhouettes while vintage florals and softened brights add a feminine touch. Luxe leather detailing elevates luggage looks to premium status.
D-Ring Athletics
The athleisure trend's strong influence on apparel translates into accessories with utilitarian sports infused belts. Grosgrain ribbon and canvas webbing fabrications are given an active appeal with bold, athletic strippings and functional pull-through ring fastenings.
The Turban Knot
Retro inspired looks make a comeback with turban knotted headbands and scarves inspired by the 1950s. Leopard print velvet, floral appliqués and lush satin finishes tap into the season's vintage vibe while bringing a touch of glamour to a bad hair day saviour.
Exclusive Offer
FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop's Spring Summer 2017 Bags & Belts Directions, an essential report featuring the season's key silhouettes, styling and detailing from the catwalks. Simply click the banner to receive your complimentary report.
Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.
Images courtesy of Trendstop: DSquared2, Orla Kiely, Tibi, Maggie Marilyn, Emilio Pucci, Red Valentino, Gucci, Emanuel Ungaro, Cynthia Rowley, all Resort 2018.
- Don-Alvin Adegeest |
Canadian outfitter Canada Goose is to launch its first knitwear collection. Famed for its fur-trimmed parka, the Toronto-based company is expanding into other categories.
Knitwear would seem a natural extension for a purveyor of garments we wear to battle the cold. Canada Goose will this week debut 15 merino wool styles, some that combine its staple fabric of down.
Jackie Poriadjian-Asch, chief marketing officer of Canada Goose told WWD.“When you think of us, you usually think of deep cold. The inspiration for this was drawn from the damp that’s in the West Coast. Many of our styles actually have names that are drawn from British Columbia. We were inspired by ‘hoodie culture’ and that bone-chilling cold you get, and the need to stay dry and protected."
The knitwear collection was developed with thermal mapping, which allows the body temperature to be regulated by how the fabric is woven. This is a similar to process to how down jackets are produced.
Selfridges in London will carry the collection in the first season, alongside other department stores including Printemps in Paris, Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and Breuninger in Germany.
According to WWD, Canada Goose created a digital campaign that details the “making of” the knitwear. “It’s really about the storytelling around the entire journey,” Poriadjian-Asch stated. “We are absolutely proud to support Canadian manufacturing and that remains unchanged. But when we looked at knitwear specifically, we continued to want to make the best-quality products and felt that knitwear in Italy, after a very long journey, made that decision the right one in this particular category,” she said.
Unlike its outerwear, Canada Goose knitwear is designed in Toronto and manufactured in Italy. Additionally the company is currently looking into potentially expanding into other catergories, such as footwear, travel and bedding. The company was founded in a small warehouse in Toronto in 1957, and has since grown into one of the world’s leading makers of performance apparel. Every collection is informed by the rugged demands of the Arctic and inspired by relentless innovation and uncompromised craftsmanship.
Photo credit: Canada Goose
- FashionUnited |
Japan’s bountiful visual culture has long been a place to take inspiration from. The futuristic yet traditional culture has become a fascination among western communities, translating into our creative industries, particularly fashion.
Described as “another planet” by trend watcher, Ronny de Vylder, the Japanese believe in everything they do, influencing the rest of the world with their ‘Wabi-Sabi’ view of ‘finding art in imperfections’.
Translated into the work of Japanese designers, Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, they pioneered the use of androgyny and unevenness in their designs, leading the growth of Wabi-Sabi in the West.
Arriving in Paris in 1980s/90s, the avant-garde designers challenged western ideals of feminine silhouettes such as Dior’s ‘new look’ and opposed the popular ‘glam’ look of 80s/90s Paris. Yamamoto said he wanted ‘to make men’s clothes for women’, Miyake famously made a collection from a single piece of cloth, and Kawakubo introduced black, uneven female body shapes to western runways.
Kawakubo’s unconventional designs inspired legendary European designers John Galliano, Martin Margiela and Alexander Mcqueen and remain relevant in today’s fashion industry.
Galliano in particular took influence from Kawakubo’s use of black, and in Autumn 1994 his Ready to Wear collection stood out with all black looks partnered with oriental influences; later resulting in his role as creative director at Givenchy.
McQueen also took inspiration from Kawakubo, exploring the female body with a range of materials, some transparent, partnered with silk japanese inspired trousers, jackets and dresses in his legendary La Poupée, Spring 1997 show.
Now the focal point of The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s ‘The Art of the In-Between’ retrospective, Kawakubo’s immense career undoubtedly changed the face of fashion, contributing to western fashion’s obsession with Japan.
However, it was not just the Japanese fashion design that has influenced the west, but the visuals of Japan itself.
Named Japonisme by French artists, the application of Japanese motifs such as flowers, birds, dragons, waves usually seen on kimonos extended to the west. Kimono’s, still worn regularly by the Japanese, were central to the expansion of Japonisme into fashion.
A stand out collection that proved this was Dior Couture Spring 2007, designed again by Galliano the collection was simply Japonisme. Brightly coloured kimonos and dresses covered with waves, frogs, fish, flowers and other nature, were accompanied by geisha makeup and tied together with origami folding techniques.
Translating further into today's fashion, a resurgence of kimono dresses, silk patterned tops and dragon motifs mean Japonisme continues to influence today’s youth.
Street style has also been central to the diffusion of Japanese fashion to the west.
Soichi Aoki, a Tokyo born photographer published ‘Street’ in 1985, a magazine which featured young London’s street style. He went on to develop another magazine called ‘FRUiTS’ in 1997, which focussed on Tokyo’s Harajuku district and the avant-garde fashion that was being worn and made by Tokyo’s youth.
Recognising a change in fashion, Aoki started a worldwide phenomenon of unique styles and recognised subcultures, inspiring Western youth to learn about and recreate the styles that they were witnessing in FRUiTS.
Subcultures such as Decora emerged, still popular now, participants dress as their favourite anime, manga or other Japanese character - covering themselves with an abundance of merchandise and random objects.
London’s street fashion subcultures were inspired by Harajuku, taking on Japonisme, with street brands such as Maharishi continuing to use motifs such as dragons in their designs.
Japanese kanji and kana symbols have become a huge part of western fashion, with both high end and high street brands using them in their designs.
Global brand Adidas has been at the forefront of using these symbols, adding them to apparel underneath their logo. Hype have also used the symbols in their designs, along with other imagery like cherry blossoms. Asos have joined this trend too, offering hoodies and tshirts with japanese symbols.
As global fashion continues to evolve, all that’s left to do is witness the never ending inspiration from the futuristic country of opposites: Japan.
Photos courtesy of Pexels, Paul van Riel, Francois Guillot / AFP, Asos website
- Sara Ehlers |
This week, H&M just announced the honoree of their Variety of H&M Conscious Award. In partnership with Variety, the environmentally-conscious retailer just awarded Rita Ora for her outstanding philanthropic work.
The announcement was made at the 2nd Annual Power of Young Hollywood Event. The event celebrates a group of individuals made up of creatives, actors, musicians and more. British pop singer Rita Ora was awarded the Variety and H&M Conscious Award as the first ever recipient. She has been active with UNICEF for several years and also served as an honorary ambassador to Kosovo in 2015. She also worked with afAr, Sightsavers and the Small Steps Program.
"We are thrilled to be honoring Rita with the first ever Variety and H&M Conscious Award. Her extreme commitment to social good and empowering young people to follow in her footsteps is truly inspiring and in line with H&M's vision for a more sustainable future for people and the planet," said Marybeth Schmitt, North American Communications Director for H&M.
H&M has been known for its sustainability practices for some time now. The brand has committed to social and environmentally friendly fast-fashion. Their long-term commitment includes being 100 percent fair nd equal as well as leading the change for sustainability. In awarding Rita Ora, the retailer is recognizing digital influencers, muscians, and young creatives alike for their work in sustainability and fashion.