Could Pieter Mulier be moving to Versace?

Fashion might still have one last big surprise in store before the year ends. With Versace’s creative director position once again vacant, speculation has been rife – but some believe the mystery could be solved sooner rather than later.

According to multiple media outlets, including WWD, Alaïa creative director Pieter Mulier is expected to join the Milan-based house and its parent company, the Prada Group.

Mulier, who has been instrumental to Alaïa's success since 2021, is already well-acquainted with the Prada Group's most influential creatives. He is best known for his long-standing collaboration with Raf Simons. He was Simons' right-hand man at Dior and also worked alongside him at Calvin Klein and Jil Sander. At Calvin Klein, Mulier became creative director himself, responsible for translating Simons' vision across the womenswear and menswear ready-to-wear collections. Simons regularly brought Mulier out for a bow on the runway and sat front row at most of Alaïa's shows.

His close connection to Simons, who co-directs the main line with Miuccia Prada, could now pave the way for the designer's potential move to Versace.

Return to heritage?

At the helm of Versace is Lorenzo Bertelli, the newly appointed executive chairman. He was reportedly instrumental in the decision to let Dario Vitale go after just one season. According to sources, Bertelli is not planning a radical overhaul of the brand. Instead, he wants to reconnect it more closely with the founding family's style. This is an approach that Mulier, who has led Alaïa for over four years, has already successfully implemented.

Since joining the historic French house, Mulier has not only developed his own distinctive creative signature but has also remained true to the vision of Azzedine Alaïa.

Since his debut with the spring/summer 2022 collection, he has focused on craftsmanship, innovation and striking volumes. Simultaneously, he has built a strong accessories offering, particularly in shoes and bags, to complement the ready-to-wear collections.

This strategy has proven particularly successful for parent company Richemont. Under Mulier, Alaïa is considered a key growth driver within the fashion and leather goods segment, achieving double-digit growth rates during his tenure. According to WWD, the brand has more than doubled in size since Mulier's arrival.

It is therefore not surprising that Richemont is reportedly delaying Mulier's departure. Negotiations for his move are still ongoing, and a contract with Versace has not yet been signed. Should the move happen, Mulier's arrival would further strengthen the growing Belgian presence in Milan, alongside Raf Simons at Prada; Glenn Martens at Diesel and Maison Margiela; and Meryll Rogge at Marni.