Africa's secondhand clothing market balances economic promise and pressures

Africa has become a critical player in the global secondhand clothing market, offering a fast-growing outlet for pre-owned apparel exports while highlighting tensions between economic necessity and industrial ambition.

Driven by affordability, style diversity, and sustainability concerns, the continent’s demand for secondhand garments—often sourced from Europe and North America—continues to rise. According to SMART (Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles), Africa remains one of the largest recipients of exported used textiles, fueling a vibrant informal economy that supports millions of jobs, from importers to street vendors.

Beyond its economic importance, the trade plays a key role in extending garment lifecycles and reducing textile waste—positioning it as a low-carbon alternative to fast fashion. Entrepreneurs are increasingly exploring upcycling and textile repurposing to add value and curb waste.

Mounting challenges

Yet the sector faces mounting challenges. Several governments, including Rwanda and Ghana, have introduced or proposed restrictions on secondhand imports to protect local textile industries. While such measures aim to support domestic manufacturing, they risk limiting access to affordable clothing and destabilizing informal employment.

Quality control and waste are growing concerns, with unusable garments adding pressure to under-resourced waste systems. SMART has called for improved export standards to mitigate the dumping of low-grade textiles. Infrastructure gaps, from transport to customs inefficiencies, further constrain market efficiency.

Africa’s demand for secondhand clothing presents both opportunities and challenges, SMART concludes. By leveraging the economic and environmental advantages while addressing trade restrictions, quality concerns, and infrastructure gaps, the secondhand clothing industry can play a vital role in shaping a more sustainable and inclusive fashion landscape. As the market continues to evolve, stakeholders must embrace innovative solutions and policy frameworks to ensure a thriving and responsible secondhand clothing sector.