As growth momentum fades, is Jacquemus seeking investment?

French fashion label Jacquemus last week established its first permanent US presence with a flagship store in New York's Soho district, a strategic move that coincides with reports of the brand seeking minority investment. The 2,906-square-metre location represents a significant commitment to the American market, even as the independently-owned label grapples with projected sales declines of 15-20 percent in the current fiscal year, according to Paris-based fashion news outlet Miss Tweed.

The expansion comes at a pivotal moment for the brand, which reported revenues of 280 millions in 2023 but has faced leadership challenges since the departure of chief executive Bastien Daguzan in late 2023.

Industry sources suggest that Jacquemus has enlisted S. Rothschild & Co to identify potential minority investors to support its retail ambitions and expensive fashion shows, marking a potential shift from its historically wholesale-focused distribution strategy. The move could signal a new chapter for the label founded by Simon Porte Jacquemus in 2009, which has built its reputation through strategic marketing initiatives and high-profile runway shows despite operating outside the official Paris fashion calendar.