EU approves Eco-Score methodology to assess clothing's environmental impact

On 14 May 2025, the European Commission officially approved the Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) methodology for the textile and footwear industries. Commonly referred to as the “Eco-score,” this initiative aims to measure the environmental impact of clothing and footwear across their entire life cycle. The development marks a major regulatory milestone and could begin to be implemented across the European Union as early as this summer.

Towards a unified EU-wide environmental label

The PEF framework analyses multiple environmental criteria—including greenhouse gas emissions, water use, resource consumption, and pollution—across the product’s life cycle. It forms part of the EU’s wider Green Deal strategy to promote a more sustainable and resilient European economy.

Initially, the Eco-score will be used by industry professionals only, to prevent confusion or misinterpretation of the data by consumers. The long-term objective is to standardise how sustainability information is communicated across the EU, offering consumers greater transparency and enabling more responsible purchasing decisions.

National efforts and alignment with EU standards

While the EU moves toward harmonised labelling, several member states are also developing their own complementary approaches. France, for instance, has introduced ‘Écobalyse’, a scoring system that reflects environmental impact numerically. Though the system will debut nationally, its methodology was validated by the European Commission on 16 May, aligning it with broader EU objectives.

These national systems are expected to feed into the larger European framework, offering test cases for implementation and adjustment.

Encouraging industry responsibility

The Eco-score may become an important part of future regulation. Proposed legislation in several EU countries includes bonus-malus (reward and penalty) mechanisms based on the environmental impact of clothing items. Companies that choose to promote their sustainability credentials—such as carbon footprints—may soon be required to include these scores.

NGOs and civil society groups will also have the ability to calculate and publish estimated scores for products from brands that do not participate after a defined period, further encouraging compliance and transparency.

Olivier Ducatillon, president of the Union des Industries Textiles, reflected on this balance in an interview: “We’re pleased with the progress, particularly that the system remains voluntary in its early phase. Times are tough for many businesses, and flexibility is key.”

A step against ultra fast fashion

The introduction of a Europe-wide environmental label is also seen as a strategic counter to the rise of ultra fast fashion—much of which is produced under looser environmental and social standards than those typically found in Europe. The Eco-score could serve not only to inform consumers but also to level the playing field for producers that prioritise sustainable practices.

For brands, the system presents an opportunity to highlight environmentally responsible production. For consumers, it offers clearer insight into the impact of their purchases. Transparency platform Clear Fashion described it as “a unique opportunity for transformation within the sector.”

As the industry prepares for broader rollout, the Eco-score looks set to play a central role in reshaping how fashion is evaluated and consumed across Europe.