From California to Europe: How Calle Del Mar is scaling a handmade brand without sacrificing craft

In today’s fast-evolving luxury market, Calle Del Mar is betting that craftsmanship – not speed – will win over the next generation of European consumers. The Californian knitwear label is entering the market not simply to reach new retailers, but to tap into a region that still protects and invests in craft. For Calle Del Mar, Europe thus represents both a commercial opportunity and access to a production ecosystem needed to scale artisanal knitwear responsibly, without compromising its handmade ethos.

To mark its first steps into this new realm, Calle Del Mar chose Paris Fashion Week for its debut, hosting a preview of its spring/summer 2026 collection off-schedule. The decision to venture further afield responds to heightened activity in the region, the brand’s founder and creative director, Aza Ziegler, told FashionUnited. Growing demand for online orders in Europe, both DTC and online, have made the market appealing in the way of customer acquisition and retention. More specifically, Paris, Ziegler said, was the ideal bridge between European buyers and the mills and workshops the brand is building collaborations with.

“We wanted to be sure our customers can have that up close and personal discovery of our knits in brick and mortar stores,” Ziegler said. “There is something about feeling our pieces in person, they are extremely tactile and luxurious and translate so well in person. We brought our collection to Paris to welcome a more international set of eyes amongst buyers, press and stylists.”

Partnerships with Parisian, London boutiques reflect selective wholesale approach

Europe also boasts a high concentration of luxury buyers who retain a sense of loyalty towards brands, making it the largest regional market for luxury knitwear specifically. According to DataIntelo, the sector generated around 4.2 billion dollars in revenue for 2024, and is expected to maintain steady growth over the coming years as investments zone in on sustainable fashion and digital transformation. For a label defined by slow production and tactility, the timing aligns with a wider shift in luxury purchasing: consumers are seeking fewer, yet better pieces.

Calle Del Mar’s European entry begins within the region’s influential independent multibrand network, where boutiques remain important tastemakers. The brand has partnered with Parisian boutique Merci and London-based designer clothing store Koibird, reflecting its selective wholesale approach. “We are primarily looking for partners who have a very clear point of view, and we are often drawn to stores who think differently, challenge the norms of the industry a bit and have a very personal, warm connection to their communities,” Ziegler noted. Rather than chasing rapid geographic expansion, the brand is instead pursuing deep relationships with retailers who understand craftsmanship.

Balancing an online presence with physical retail is a strategy that many emerging labels are tackling in the face of industry-wide headwinds. Luxury e-tail giants like Net-a-Porter – an existing partner for Calle Del Mar – are also navigating a challenging environment. In Net-a-Porter’s case, its parent company Yoox changed ownership, with MyTheresa stepping up to take over. While such shifts are becoming more common, Ziegler reaffirms that Net-a-Porter in particular has remained a supportive partner where they have seen positive growth.

Yet one of the biggest operational challenges for Calle Del Mar is importing and exporting, which Ziegler said is becoming “harder than ever in America”. The complexities of tariffs and trade tensions have pushed brands to explore localised production. Ziegler, however, is optimistic that the brand can continue to overcome any obstacles. “We honestly see endless opportunities to grow the business in new regions and feel our pieces eloquently fit the lifestyle,” she added.

Europe’s artisan ecosystem draws in Calle Del Mar

If Europe provides commercial access, it also provides something harder to find in the US: craft preservation. Major luxury groups have invested heavily in artisan training and local production to secure know-how and avoid skills shortages, indirectly supporting small brands seeking European manufacturing partners. For Calle Del Mar, this means access not only to suppliers, but to generational knowledge that aligns with its fervour for living artisan tradition.

"[The US] hasn't preserved [traditional craftsmanship] in the same way Europe has,"

The brand has long championed its “handmade in California” identity, supporting its local community and the hands that make the garments. But Ziegler acknowledged that expansion exposes limitations in the US supply of skilled labour, where there are “simply fewer artisans”. “Our country hasn’t preserved those traditions in the same way Europe has,” she said.

With European collaborations already underway, however, Calle Del Mar is exploring a hybrid production model that prioritises craftsmanship across borders. The brand has existing relationships with mills in Italy and Scotland, where it continues to encompass a process defined by its work with generations of artisans. “Expanding production globally has always been part of our long-term vision,” Ziegler noted.

“As we expand to Europe, we do hope to also expand our production there and are already developing there,” she added. “In a dream world, we could sell the products made closest to the region they ship, as this approach not only reduces our global shipping footprint, but also deepens our connection to regional craftsmanship traditions. However, we recognise that may not be possible.”

This does not mean that Calle Del Mar plans to abandon US production. Instead, European operations will support and strengthen the brand’s ability to scale. “Our focus remains on working with skilled craftspeople, wherever they are, maintaining the same values of quality, care, and environmental responsibility,” Ziegler added.

Hospitality presents opportunities for growth

When it then comes to the shifting regulatory landscape in Europe, Calle Del Mar is already one step ahead. Thoughtful production has long been a mainstay value of the brand, which collaborates with Italian mills well-versed in the evolving European environment standards. Ziegler notes that production partners are continuously improving their sustainability practices, from utilising recycled water systems for dyeing to unwinding yarn for reuse.

“There is excitement around innovation and going back to the way things are meant to be made, with the earth in mind,” Ziegler said. “It’s a constant process, but we spend a lot of time in the development phase of each piece and each new fibre we use. This refinement allows us to only share with the world pieces we can really stand behind, proudly.”

“Our materials, thoughtful production and attention to craftsmanship is what sets the brand apart,”

These values are reflected in Calle Del Mar’s SS26 knitwear collection, the first to be introduced to Europe. The line centres on the brand’s signature knit viscose, developed with a family-run Italian mill. It complements the brand’s cashmere winter collections, forming a year-round merchandising structure that Ziegler said creates “healthy business year-round”. For retailers, this offers seasonless inventory and long shelf life. “Some might call this a gap in the market,” Ziegler added. “Our materials, thoughtful production and attention to craftsmanship is what sets the brand apart.”

To introduce the brand to new audiences, Calle Del Mar is also leaning into hospitality partnerships, placing garments in spaces where customers live and travel. “Hospitality is such an appealing sector for us because it embodies the same sense of ease, warmth and luxury that inspires our collections” she said. “We’ve always viewed Calle Del Mar as a lifestyle brand, not just a label, and as we continue to grow, we want to express that holistically – through environments, experiences, home goods and partnership that celebrate the way our community lives and travels.”

Looking ahead, Ziegler says the brand is in early conversations for a few several projects, with the new proximity to Europe potentially set to open more doors. “Being physically present here allows us to introduce the brand to a wider audience, observe how customers from different regions connect with our product, and identify where we should deepen our focus next,” she added.

Calle Del Mar now stands as a case study: an emerging, craftsmanship-led label scaling without sacrificing its identity. Instead of trading intimacy for speed, the brand is building a borderless craft-based ecosystem, merging US heritage with Europe’s artisan infrastructure. The result is a growth strategy anchored in quality, not volume: a welcome stance in today’s luxury market.