Good on You report: Are brands really using certified cotton?

Researchers from Good On You (GOY) have found that brands often communicate extensively about their use of sustainable cotton, while their assortments in practice rely heavily on synthetic fabrics. This is the main conclusion from the new Cotton Rankings Report, which GOY helped compile for the charity Solidaridad.

The 2025 Cotton Rankings Report reveals that only one-third of brands provide a detailed overview of their cotton certifications. The report acknowledges a range of widely used certifications, including Better Cotton, organic cotton, Fairtrade and recycled cotton. These labels are widely recognised within the fashion and textile industry and are externally verified by independent third parties.

Certification is a complex issue, a “tricky business,” as Good on You warns on its website. For instance, Hugo Boss, HEMA and IKEA claim to use 100 percent certified cotton, yet none of these brands specify which certifications are involved. Similarly, brands such as Gucci, Walmart and Levi’s state they use over 80 percent certified cotton without providing further details. The researchers concluded that where certification information is absent, many brands use vague terms like “sustainable” or “preferred” cotton without clarifying their meaning.

There are also examples of mainstream brands demonstrating genuine transparency. Adidas, Jack Wolfskin and C&A, for instance, specify precisely what percentage of their cotton falls under which certifications in their communications.

Providing information on certification is one aspect. The researchers state that the proportion of cotton in the overall material mix is even more critical. Fashion companies in the ranking, and the industry in general, rely heavily on synthetic fabrics, with polyester being by far the most popular fibre.

The research shows that brands rarely disclose their material volumes. Consequently, consumers can easily be led to believe that a brand is performing well when it communicates transparently about sustainable materials like certified cotton.

For this reason, a new section has been added to the Cotton Ranking this year. It provides insights into how much cotton brands actually use and how this compares to synthetic fibres. Only 29 of the 100 brands surveyed disclosed their cotton volumes. According to the researchers, many companies avoid this transparency for fear of revealing their market power, or lack thereof. These insights are crucial for the transition to a circular textile economy. Knowing the exact annual cotton usage of brands would clarify the industry's total production volume and material impact. It would also reveal the negotiating power of suppliers and highlight the importance of using certified cotton for timely sustainability improvements.

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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