H&M faces renewed pressure over mohair use following PETA investigation

Swedish retail giant H&M is facing a renewed call to ban mohair following a new investigation into Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) farms that claims to have found evidence of animal cruelty.

The People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) has submitted a shareholder resolution to H&M requesting the retailer to reinstate a policy to ban the material that it implemented in 2018 before reversing the decision in 2020.

H&M reserved ban on mohair in 2020

The animal welfare organisation said that it has renewed pressure following a “damning” new investigation by its Asian arm into RMS-certified farms, including a site that supplies South African agriculture company BKB Ltd., a partner of H&M.

According to PETA Asia, evidence of animal cruelty against goats sheared for the raw material was brought to light in its investigation. The organisation outlined allegations of workers beating animals and, in some cases, wounding them.

As a result, PETA is amping up pressure on H&M, which had originally initiated a mohair ban in 2018 following a prior PETA exposé on South African farms.

The retailer then reintroduced the material to its production in 2020 under RMS, a certification launched by Textile Exchange that strives to verify and identify mohair produced on farms that respect animal welfare and the environment.

PETA continues to challenge Textile Exchange certifications

Despite such claims, PETA has continued to challenge Textile Exchange’s certifications over the years, particularly its Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), which the organisation has deemed inaccurate due to its exclusion of mulesing.

In response to PETA's latest campaign, a spokesperson for Textile Exchange noted that it takes such allegations seriously, adding: "Our standards are based on the view that animal fibres can play a role in the fashion, apparel and textile industry when produced responsibly. We recognise that some organisations oppose the use of animal fibres entirely; our focus is on improving practices where these raw materials are produced."

The organisation further suggests that third-party verification systems like its own establish clear criteria next to independent auditing and accountability mechanisms, therefore reducing the risk that activities cause unnecessary harm by creating an official platform to investigate and analyse complaints.

Credible concerns that are raised may cause the suspension or removal of a certification when non-compliance is confirmed.

The spokesperson continued: “It is also important to recognise that mohair production supports rural communities and farming families. Strengthening standards and oversight is essential to improving outcomes for animals while sustaining these livelihoods.

“Textile Exchange will continue to engage with certification bodies, supply chain partners, and stakeholders to ensure that certified systems uphold the highest possible welfare expectations and to drive continuous improvement across the industry.”

PETA’s shareholder resolution to be addressed by H&M in AGM

In its shareholder resolution, PETA has called on H&M to recommit to the mohair ban, and has further encouraged the board to “consider developing a plan to phase out all remaining animal-derived materials”.

The resolution states that H&M has an “obligation” to “course-correct and uphold its animal welfare commitments”, particularly on the back of facing public scrutiny over greenwashing allegations.

PETA continued: “Humane washing – misrepresenting the treatment of animals as more ethical, compassionate, or “humane” than it truly is – represents an analogous reputational and legal risk.

“H&M Group can avert future negative repercussions while upholding its promise to act ethically, transparently, and responsibly by reinstating its ban on mohair and developing a plan to phase out all remaining animal-derived materials.”

H&M Group reaffirms commitment to animal welfare

Responding to the latest action by PETA, H&M told FashionUnited that it had noted the organisation’s resolution for its upcoming AGM and reaffirmed that animal welfare was important to the group, noting that it only sourced animal fibres “from certified farms and, where possible, from recycled sources where quality and availability allow”.

“We are humble to the challenges that exist when sourcing animal fibres and acknowledge our limitations, as brands like ours do not buy animal fibres directly,” the statement continued. “This is why we rely on credible sustainability standards and certifications with strong governance structures that ensure transparency, accountability, and continuous improvement.”

In regards to mohair specifically, H&M said that it only sources the material from farms certified by RMS. “We take any allegations of animal welfare breaches very seriously. For further information about the standard, and ongoing investigations, we kindly refer to Textile Exchange.”