How a brand like Chanel uses IP to establish and influence an audience

Chanel is a maison synonymous with luxury and recognised globally, defined by timeless black and white chic and its 'ultimate luxury' identity. Founded in Paris in 1910 by fashion pioneer Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, today it remains a powerhouse brand, now headquartered in London. Many of the elements introduced under Coco have endured, firmly establishing the brand’s identity. In fact, these hallmarks are continually drawn upon, reinvigorated and reimagined, including under current creative director Matthieu Blazy, whose first collection for the maison for SS26 was an instant sell-out.

Privately owned by the Wertheimer family, a structure still relatively common in the luxury fashion sector despite the broader retail industry’s move toward conglomerates and private-equity ownership, the maison continues to flourish, guided by its own creative vision as an independent brand and a member of the haute couture fashion industry.

Chanel’s core audience has long consisted of affluent women who value classic style, craftsmanship, and the ability to express themselves through fashion. While this demographic prevails, the brand has broadened its appeal and adapted to new markets and cultural shifts.

Intellectual property (IP) has been instrumental not only during its initial establishment but also in strengthening brand loyalty and reaching new consumers and followers. This article examines the IP rights that anchor Chanel’s identity and uphold the brand’s influence in today’s market and across the decades.

Trademarks

Easily recognisable, the two interlocking Cs, the initials of the eponymous founder, form the well-known logo designed by Coco Chanel. It remains a highly-recognised badge of origin, unchanged to this day.

The clean all-caps font of the CHANEL wordmark, often placed underneath the interlocking Cs, is in a Couture sans-serif font, evocative of the 1920s art deco era but bold enough to have withstood the test of time over a century later.

The ‘Chanel’ wordmark was registered in 1924, and though it is the name of the brand, has often been misused to identify non-branded items or counterfeit goods by third parties wishing to profit from Chanel’s hard-earned reputation. An example might be a tweed suit with no affiliation to the brand still being dubbed a ‘Chanel suit’.

‘Coco’ was registered in 1980 and is one of Chanel’s most valuable trade marks by which the founder was affectionately known, due mostly to its acquired goodwill and use in signature perfumes. It is created in the same sans-serif style as the CHANEL logo.

The use of tweed, the iconic soft textures that make up Chanel’s jackets and suits, are hallmarks in the brand’s toolkit and have been developed and reimagined overtime to evoke its heritage. In turn, Chanel’s legacy of craftsmanship has been protected through the acquisition of artisanal mills.

Recognisable design elements like the Camellia Chanel flower motif adorn various offerings such as cosmetic products, and the camellia essence itself is an ingredient in one of Chanel’s beauty ranges. The camellia has a long history of association with the brand, appearing in adaptations across clothing, jewellery and accessories.

Chanel’s is not an easy reputation to uphold as its popularity frequently breeds others trying to cash-in. The label is known to protect its trademarks and other IP through legal means, and has regularly enforced its rights successfully, for example:

• In 2025, a New York jury ruled in favour of Chanel, awarding the brand damages against second-hand reseller What Goes Around Comes Around (WGACA) which was found to be selling counterfeit Chanel branded handbags and creating a false impression of affiliation to Chanel.
• The Chanel v The RealReal (TRR) luxury resale case has been ongoing since 2018 and is related to the sale of counterfeit goods and trademark infringement, with multiple failed attempts at mediation. Most recently, a US court has dismissed the majority of the reseller’s counterclaims, eliminating a large part of its antitrust claims.

Other rights in the maison’s arsenal include registered designs such as the shape of shoes, bags, and perfume bottles. Chanel No. 5 perfume, the bottle of which was reportedly inspired by a whiskey decanter, heralded the beginning of investment in advertising in the 1970s with shrewd decision-making. It created a demand for the perfume by popularising it through Marilyn Monroe’s endorsement, inaugurating the importance of collaboration with celebrities.

People

Chanel’s celebrity driven strategy relies on a sophisticated IP framework. In addition to the above-mentioned IP protection, licensing agreements with clauses added protect IP and exclusivity in collaborations; Non-Disclosure Agreements (NDAs) safeguard campaign confidentiality and protect the maison’s creative concepts during launches and campaigns; and copyright protection around campaign imagery ensures that only authorised representations of the brand are publicly circulated.

High-profile figures that represent the brand include: ‘the Face of’, currently Margot Robbie for No. 5 perfume; ‘Ambassadors’ (since the 1980s) and 'Muses' like Lily-Rose Depp and lately Ayo Edebiri; and ‘Friends’ and ‘Representatives’ such as Dua Lipa. Nicole Kidman has starred in short but impactful, memorable films. These icons attend fashion shows, are photographed on the red carpet and feature in ad campaigns, creating a buzz for the brand that helps cultivate Chanel’s audience and market share.

In Chanel’s posted social media guidelines, the working policy is clearly elucidated as the expectation for a company, geared to ensure the protection of the brand, its collaborators and its customers:

...You should never post or share any content that violates or infringes the IP rights of any third party. A good rule of thumb is, if your content is based on or incorporates someone else’s creation, make sure you have their permission to post it, even if the content is freely accessible...

With nearly 60 million followers on Instagram alone, it is essential that the message is clear both to follow legal guidance and to help counter the threat of online infringement.

Leadership

The evolution over the past decades, from when Karl Lagerfeld was chief designer and with the infusion of business savvy from the Wertheimer family, has worked well for Chanel’s brand image. Under current CEO Leena Nair, the first woman of Asian heritage to lead the house, Chanel is dedicated to gender equality and sustainability, with a commitment to achieving net-zero by 2040.

Creative director Matthieu Blazy was appointed in December 2024 and debuted with a space-themed runway show during Paris Fashion Week. His inaugural SS26 collection introduced a fantastical, mushroom-filled set while maintaining Chanel’s elegant DNA: simplicity, craftsmanship, and unmistakable design. He follows in the footsteps of Coco and Lagerfeld - big shoes to fill with their dedication to style and their own unique flair. Nicole Kidman’s return as a brand ambassador under the direction of Blazy demonstrates the maison’s multi-generational resonance.

Meanwhile, Chanel Beauty attempts to bridge the gap to a Gen Z audience by launching a sustainable beauty range that aims to be eco-friendly and innovative, while also keeping pace with modern expectation alongside preserving the classic Chanel ethos.

Conclusion

Coco Chanel’s belief that “fashion changes, but style endures” is evident in the maison’s strategic use of IP not merely as a defensive mechanism, but as an active expression of its brand DNA in extraordinary ways.

From trademarks and design rights to celebrity partnerships and strict enforcement, Chanel has leveraged IP not only to protect its heritage but to continually influence culture. Its enduring appeal lies in its ability to evolve while remaining true to the foundational values that define the brand.