Italy investigates Chanel, Bulgari and other luxury brands for exploitation of Chinese workers

Milan - Italian police searched the headquarters of eleven luxury brands on Thursday, including Chanel, Bulgari and Etro, suspected of using subcontractors who exploited Chinese workers in Italy.

The other brands under investigation are Brunello Cucinelli, Moncler, Jacob Cohen Company, Owenscorp Italia, Goyard Italia, F.Vl, Stefano Ricci and Brandart, Milan prosecutor Paolo Storari told AFP, confirming a report from the business newspaper Il Sole 24 Ore.

The investigation, led by the Milan public prosecutor's office, had already uncovered wage and labour irregularities in Italian workshops. In late 2025, it was extended to thirteen other major luxury firms, including Prada, Givenchy and Dolce & Gabbana.

Last year, the minister of industry, Adolfo Urso, defended these industry giants, stating that the reputation of “Made in Italy” was “under attack”.

Investigators suspect that the brands allowed their subcontractors to use workshops where Chinese workers were employed under conditions contrary to labour law and, in some cases, housed in unsanitary accommodation.

Several high-end firms, including cashmere specialist Loro Piana, were temporarily placed under judicial administration due to the working conditions of their subcontractors.

This measure was later lifted after the companies strengthened controls over their supply chains.