Paris Fashion Week: How to get on the FHCM calendar

Access options depend on a brand's relationship with the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM). Member houses of the FHCM are automatically included in the show schedule. Selected guest houses, however, gain access to the FHCM's show and presentation calendar based on the decisions of the relevant committees.

Guest brands must apply with a portfolio three or four months before Fashion Week to be listed for a presentation or a show. This portfolio must include the brand's presentation; collection lookbooks; turnover figures; and distribution details. This application is free of charge.

The FHCM presents all submitted applications to the decision-making committee. This committee is chaired by Elsa Lanzo, CEO and partner of Rick Owens and Owenscorp, for Paris Fashion Week Men's, and Anouck Duranteau-Loeper, CEO of Isabel Marant, for Paris Fashion Week Women's. Each committee brings together international journalists, buyers and industry professionals.

A key factor in the decision is the availability of a slot in the schedule, which is not expandable. Turnover is not a central decision-making criterion, although it does help to assess the brand's operational capacity and structure.

The main criterion, according to sources at the FHCM, is creativity and creative diversity.

The committees also assess the relevance of presenting at Paris Fashion Week based on market demand. They consider the opportunity for a brand to emerge through a presence on the calendar and its organisational structure, such as being part of a group or its industrial development.

It should be noted that the presentation format is a daily slot that cannot be less than 2 hours and 30 minutes. This format is becoming more common, even though for some houses it involves several key moments. In fact, some brands hold several smaller shows and indicate this on their invitations.

Two statuses, two approaches to accessing the FHCM calendar

Member houses must be up to date with their annual fees. These are calculated according to a confidential internal scale that takes into account the economic size of the house.

Guest houses must pay a calendar registration fee. This fee is linked to turnover and the season for which the brand is registered.

In terms of funding, Défi de la Mode can grant French brands aid capped at 15,000 euros for a show and 6,000 euros for a presentation, subject to eligibility and application approval. Other types of support are available depending on needs, such as partners, showrooms, and photoshoots.

For international brands, support schemes have been established by the FHCM. This is in conjunction with member houses and private partners, particularly within the framework of the SPHERE programme.

Strategically, it is important for PFW to make room for emerging international brands. The FHCM's member houses are French, while guest houses include a higher proportion of international brands.

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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