PVH leadership shuffle at Calvin Klein suggest hurdles to rebuild brand

The iconic imagery of Kate Moss in Calvin Klein campaigns and the minimalist ethos once embodied by its John Pawson-designed Manhattan flagship now feel like distant echoes of a brand increasingly defined by commercial pragmatism. This week’s announcement that Eva Serrano will depart as global brand president—widely interpreted as an involuntary exit after only two years—signals continued turbulence in PVH’s efforts to revive Calvin Klein. The latest leadership shake-up underscores the persistent tension between the label’s aspirational legacy and the realities of a business still deeply tethered to a complex, licensing-driven model.

The abrupt departure of Serrano marks another strategic shift as the company continues its bumpy effort to revive the once-dominant fashion label. Serrano, will be replaced by David Savman, PVH’s chief supply chain officer and a former H&M executive. PVH CEO Stefan Larsson is also an H&M veteran, and no doubt the company wants to leverage the fast fashion supply chain successes to CK.

The move underscores a renewed focus on operational efficiency over creative leadership at a time when Calvin Klein’s global reboot has yet to gain traction. Industry insiders suggest Serrano’s exit was less a transition and more a termination, with lingering questions about the brand’s direction under her short tenure.

Despite a renewed investment in high fashion, including a new runway collection by The Row alum Veronica Leoni, Calvin Klein is not a ready-to-wear business. Powered by the revenue of licensed sales of its underwear and denim, Calvin Klein’s turnaround has been hampered by complex product development and sourcing, as well as persistent challenges in key markets like China. Still, investors shrugged off the leadership changes, with PVH’s share price up 6 percent on Thursday, reported Yahoo.

Larsson, whose résumé also spans Old Navy and Ralph Lauren (where he was reportedly at loggerheads with its founder) appears determined to fuse fast-fashion efficiency with aspirational brand positioning. With each leadership change, PVH signals an ambition to reconnect Calvin Klein with its storied heritage. Yet Leoni’s debut collection received a tepid critical response, and the brand’s cultural currency remains in question, despite its strong advertising prowess.

The challenge lies in executing a premium creative vision within a corporate structure still heavily reliant on mass-market licensing and operational complexity. The Raf Simons experiment—lauded creatively but commercially misaligned—remains a cautionary tale.