Sedgwick Cole Jr. on how Lee’s chore coat outlasted a century of trends

Lee’s chore coat was built in 1925 to withstand farm and railroad work. A century later, its design has withstood something else: changing fashion trends. “Lee never has been the loudest brand. But we’re one of the longest lasting,” Sedgwick Cole Jr., Lee’s global head of design, told FashionUnited as the brand celebrates the jacket’s 100th anniversary with a fall 2026 update.

Lee first introduced the style as the “New Lee Denim” jacket, later known as the 91-J. Its core design remains recognizable today: a relaxed, hip-length silhouette, a pointed collar, a button front, four patch pockets and durable construction designed to move with the wearer.

“That is due to our commitment to quality products, smart fit and fabric innovations, and a mix of timeless style and relevance,” Cole said of the brand’s longevity.

A French style, made American

Chore coats originated in late 19th-century France as practical uniforms for farmers, factory workers and laborers. Lee helped establish the style in American workwear with the 91-J, designed to be worn over the brand’s 91 overalls, which launched at the same time.

The jacket was meant “to create a functional ‘suit’” with the overalls, Cole said. “The design was similar to jackets manufactured by other US workwear makers at the time but was differentiated by the New Lee Denim fabric, later named Jelt denim.”

Chore coats were already being worn in the US before the 91-J arrived, Cole said, but American versions lacked the rich blue hue of the French originals. “Lee’s version resembled the iconic blue fabric thanks to the texture of the Jelt denim,” he said. “The lightweight yet tightly woven 2x1 twill construction was made with strong twisted yarns to maximize tensile strength and durability without bulkiness.”

Lee developed the fabric exclusively with Canton Mills in Georgia. The tightly woven, 11.5-ounce denim was designed to resist snags, tears and rips while staying comfortable enough for everyday wear. “We still use Jelt denim today,” Cole said.

From farms to railroads

Lee initially marketed the jacket to farmers. “The jacket was always designed to address the needs of workers of that time, but the original advertisements did feature agricultural spaces,” Cole said.

Within a few years, the brand’s advertising expanded to feature firemen and railroad workers. The 91-J’s internal breast pocket could hold a train journal, which made it a practical choice for railroad engineers.

The original jacket featured triple-needle stitching, reinforced seams, adjustable three-button cuffs and generously sized patch pockets. From 1925 through 1982, its general pattern and construction remained largely unchanged, according to the brand. Variations appeared in denim, brown duck and railroad-specific styles.

The fall 2026 chore coat

The new versions keep the triple-stitched seams, workwear pockets, a version of the workwear neck label and buttoned sleeves, Cole said. “The length and fit may vary but the details that make it Lee remain.”

Instead of offering a single interpretation, Lee is designing for a range of wearers. “Whether that’s a denim aficionado who is excited about the new Lee 101 lined Japanese selvedge chore jacket, or someone looking for a more playful modern version, we purposely design multiple variations to suit consumers’ current needs and where they shop,” Cole said. “The jacket is universal for men and women, easy to layer, and works with all kinds of bottoms.”

“Whether your style leans preppier, more streetwear or utility or more high fashion, the jacket can fit into your current wardrobe,” he added.

Heritage

Cole sees the brand’s history as an edge at a time when consumers are seeking more than a purchase. “People are leaning into nostalgia and want emotional connections to brands through storytelling and experience, not just a transaction,” he said. “Heritage brands like Lee have authentic stories. Our iconic products have been worn by generations of Americans and the designs remain timeless and relevant today. You can’t replicate that type of heritage.”

The anniversary is part of Built Like Lee, the creative vision and global platform the brand launched last year to reinforce its denim authority and attract new generations of consumers. Lee, which turns 137 in November, is also highlighting new products this fall, including Lee LQD Liquid Soft Denim for women and Lee Gold for men, alongside collaborations.

“These special birthdays provide a natural time to tell our stories, helping new consumers rediscover our authentic heritage, while reenergizing existing fans,” Cole said.