Why is everyone rushing to see the Virgil Abloh exhibition at the Grand Palais?

It is taking place within the walls of the Grand Palais, a powerful cultural and fashion venue that hosted Chanel's monumental shows under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld. The exhibition, titled “Virgil Abloh: The Codes”, is now making its own mark on the monument's history by attracting a crowd of visitors. Running for just a few days (September 30 - October 9), it is presented as the first major European exhibition exclusively dedicated to the work of Virgil Abloh, the influential designer and former artistic director of Louis Vuitton's menswear lines.

Since his passing in 2021, Virgil Abloh has been the subject of several exhibitions. These include a museum tour in the US titled “Virgil Abloh: 'Figures of Speech'” and “Virgil Abloh: echosystems in Paris” at Galerie Kreo. Another notable exhibition was “Virgil Abloh: The Codes c/o Architecture” at the Rubell Museum in Miami in 2022. This event, organised in partnership with Nike, serves as the starting point for the current exhibition at the Grand Palais, which is organised by VA Securities, also in collaboration with the sportswear brand.

Colette concept store at the Grand Palais

For several decades, the link between retail and museums has become commonplace. Here, with “Virgil Abloh: The Codes”, the two worlds merge completely. It is “a living work of art and a functional boutique”, according to the press release.

This fusion is embodied by a reproduction of the iconic concept store Colette, which closed in 2017. Colette was co-founded by Sarah Andelman, who is herself involved in the exhibition and was a close collaborator of Virgil Abloh.

“Virgil had a deep respect for Colette and firmly believed that retail spaces were platforms for cultural expression,” said Shannon Abloh, CEO of Virgil Abloh Securities, founder and chair of the board of the Virgil Abloh Foundation, and president of the Virgil Abloh Archive.

Spirit of Virgil

Virgil Abloh, a multidisciplinary creator, was a perfect example of a designer who defied labels. Trained in architecture and civil engineering, he successfully navigated between fashion (Off-White, Louis Vuitton); music (as a DJ and collaborator with Kanye West); furniture design (Ikea, Vitra); and contemporary art. He notably defined his era by significantly contributing to the elevation of streetwear to a form of luxury.

The objects on display were collected by the Virgil Abloh Archive, a privately managed and supported organisation by Shannon Abloh (founder and CEO of Virgil Abloh Securities), whose mission is to “perpetuate Virgil's ideas”.

The original scenography reflects the designer's vision through its hybrid approach and “collector” spirit, featuring a multitude of Nike trainers. The activations offered by the sponsor, Nike, also make the exhibition a notable event. These include workshops and “surprise conversations” with athletes, designers, and brand partners. This approach aligns with the educational spirit of Virgil Abloh, who created an accessible platform called Free Game, designed as a tool for young entrepreneurs. Therefore, the exhibition is not just a look into the past but a continuation of Abloh's philosophy.

Products resold on Vinted

Visitors are also drawn by the items available for purchase. These include a re-edition of the Virgil AblohTM x Braun collaboration; an iconic modernist interpretation of Braun's BC02 alarm clock; and a French translation of Larry Warsh's book, Abloh-isms, which features Abloh's most influential quotes.

Several limited-edition items sold at the exhibition are now being resold on the second-hand fashion platform Vinted, most still with their tags on. These include a T-shirt for 149 euros, a tote bag for 95 euros, and a candle for 50 euros.

Finally, the exhibition also provides an opportunity for the Virgil Abloh Archive to release a new publication: The Virgil Reader: Volume 001. This first book will be followed by other editions and features conversations and interviews from the period 2017-2020.