Poolside and problems: Pitti Uomo makes an energetic start to SS27

Pitti Uomo dived gracefully into the new season on Tuesday. For its 110th edition, the Italian menswear trade fair is themed around “the pool”, taking a momentary dip into cool waters amid summer temperatures before the industry's problems resurface.

Italian menswear generated a turnover of 11.2 billion euros in 2025. This represents a 2.2 percent decrease compared to the previous year, according to a study published on Monday by the Italian fashion association Confindustria Moda, based on data from Milan-based market research firm Sita Ricerca.

“We have history, tradition and expertise behind us. We also have the means to meet the new challenges that lie ahead and affect the entire fashion industry,” said Antonio De Matteis, president of Pitti Immagine, in a statement on Monday. “These factors have enabled us to redefine the concept of a trade fair at every crucial moment, transforming Pitti Uomo not only into a commercial event but also into a cultural catalyst, a place for dialogue that generates new ideas, trends and connections.”

Season opener by the pool

At the current edition of the menswear trade fair, around 740 brands are presenting their spring/summer 2027 collections until June 19. Approximately 45 percent of them are from abroad, representing more than 30 nations, Pitti Immagine announced. Making a fashionable splash this time are guest designers Simone Rocha and DSM Kei Ninomiya, as well as special projects Sunflower and JiyongKim.

The independent Korean label JiyongKim is presenting an exhibition during the trade fair that highlights the natural dyeing process using sunlight. The central installation showcases a process where a coat is exposed to the elements for over 100 days. With two long pools of water over which the coats are hung, the label also incorporates Pitti Uomo's seasonal theme, “The Pool”.

This is highlighted by an installation at the Florentine exhibition centre, Fortezza da Basso. Created by Parisian designer Philéo Landowski in collaboration with Lebanese artist Pascal Hachem, it brings the usually hidden mechanics behind a swimming pool to the forefront with a network of large pipes.

Energetic start

Motivation was high on the first day, even in the early morning hours before temperatures climbed to 30 degrees Celsius. Ahead of the official start at the exhibition grounds, Prohibited laced up its running shoes and went for a jog through Florence with its own running club.

The atmosphere among the approximately 60 participants was reportedly so good that waiting times at traffic lights were used for dance breaks, the Berlin-based brand later said.

This energy carried over to the trade fair, where footfall was noticeably high from the very first day. According to Marc Götz, this opening day was busier than in previous years. The general mood is positive despite the current circumstances. Visitors are soaking up the warmth and atmosphere of the city, said the founder of the German brand Drykorn.

American Vintage is also pleased with the good footfall, reports Markus Dambacher, wholesale manager for menswear in Germany. For the French brand, known for its vintage look, the DACH region, comprising Germany, Austria and Switzerland, is its second-strongest market. The focus is now on the US market and the Asian region. The brand's new “destinations” are also reflected in its exhibition stand, where the collection—a mix of workwear, officewear and the “New Pyjama” look—is illustrated with a luggage conveyor belt.

Meanwhile, trade fair newcomer Alpenhaus is pleased with the positive feedback and plans to attend the upcoming winter edition in January. The Canadian lifestyle-oriented outerwear brand will launch in Europe in September. The focus is on Germany, France and Italy, explains founder Alan Pivovar.

Bugatti is also present in Florence again this season. Pitti Uomo is still the most important trade fair for the brand, said Florian Wortmann, chief brand and commercial officer at Bugatti. However, given the current climate, the company would welcome a comparable event in its home market to avoid having to fly to Florence for industry exchange, added Bugatti CEO Julius Brinkmann. The brand is travelling to Forte dei Marmi on Wednesday for an event featuring a fashion show. It is currently hosting an event at a beach resort there, using the moment to look back as well as to the future.

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