Animal rights organisation Peta explains how to distinguish faux fur from real fur

Fashion

Peta: fur “has an unforgivable cost, namely the lives of animals” Credits: FashionUnited, image generated with the help of AI

By Isabella Naef

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As the list of brands no longer using fur in their collections grows, and more fashion weeks ban it from their runways, New York is the latest to join the line-up. Following London, Copenhagen, Berlin, Stockholm, Amsterdam, Helsinki and Melbourne, the city has now implemented a ban. In response, the animal rights organisation People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) is providing practical tips on how to tell if fur is real or fake.

PETA: today's synthetic and bio-furs are so similar to the real thing that identifying animal pelts requires an expert eye

“Today, synthetic and bio-furs (free from animal derivatives and plastic) are so similar to the real thing, but without the cruelty, that identifying animal pelts requires an expert eye. Labels can sometimes be misleading. Even well-known high-fashion retailers have been caught selling animal fur as synthetic. So, how can you tell if fur is real or fake?” PETA noted.

It is essential to start by identifying differences in texture and appearance. Unless they have been sheared or cut, animal hairs taper to a fine point. Synthetic fur, in contrast, typically has blunt ends where the machinery has cut it. “If the tips of the fibres taper towards the end, put it back. Additionally, synthetic hairs tend to be more uniform, while animal hairs vary in length,” explained PETA.

Inspect the base of the material

Next, the base of the material should be inspected. Animal fur is the skin of a dead animal, so the root of the hair will be attached to the skin (leather). Synthetic fur will be attached to a textile weave.

Like leather, feathers and wool, fur “has an unforgivable cost: the lives of animals. Do not assume that cheap fur must be fake. Intensive fur farms have low welfare standards and, consequently, low costs; small fur items, such as decorative pom-poms, may not have the high price tag one would expect from real fur,” added the experts from the animal rights organisation.

Testing methods to identify real fur

“If you already own the garment, the burn test can confirm if the fur is real. Gently pluck a few strands with tweezers and carefully burn them with a match or lighter. Burnt animal hair smells like burnt human hair. Synthetic fur (such as acrylic or polyester) melts and smells of burnt plastic. Pay close attention during this test: do not inhale too many fumes and keep the flame under control,” the experts advised.

Under a microscope, real fur will show cells; synthetic fur will not Credits: FashionUnited, image generated with the help of Artificial Intelligence

The pin test is another effective method suggested by PETA. Animal skin is tougher than fabric, meaning a pin pushed through it will meet more resistance than a pin passing through the textile base of synthetic fur. If the pin is difficult to push through the base, it is likely animal skin.

Using a microscope is another valid method. Real fur will show cells; synthetic fur will not. “Some animal rights organisations offer free testing if you wish to send them a sample,” said the PETA experts, who also noted that real fur is more unpopular than ever. In 2025, Condé Nast (publisher of Vogue) became the latest group to reject fur, followed shortly after by Hearst (publisher of Harper’s Bazaar).

“The devastating environmental impact is one of the main reasons for the shift in consumer favour, prompting synthetic fur manufacturers to move beyond plastic-based materials. The French artisans at Ecopel have created Flur, a 100 percent bio-based material, while BioFluff's Savian material is entirely plant-based and has already been chosen by top designers such as Ganni and Stella McCartney,” the PETA experts further explained.

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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