At Chanel, Matthieu Blazy Turns Gabrielle's Bookshelf Into Couture
Paris - Designer Matthieu Blazy presented his second haute couture collection for the legendary French brand on Tuesday. The collection featured references to fairytales like “Jack and the Beanstalk” and historical pieces from the Chanel archive.
Set against a backdrop of colourful flowers, vines and magic mirrors at the Grand Palais near the Champs-Élysées, the collection highlighted garments with direct allusions to traditional tales. These included straw-like coats reminiscent of scarecrows and almost transparent dresses embroidered with climbing plants.
Other details, such as a handbag in the shape of a sleeping teddy bear or a duck that transforms into a swan on a row of buttons, hinted at more stories.
“I wondered if Gabrielle Chanel’s life was a fairytale. In her library, I found the little book ‘The Fairies, Tales of Tales’ and, together with the [Chanel] haute couture ateliers, we explored the idea of garments that carry stories, like books,” the Franco-Belgian designer explained in a press release.
The model who opened the show was carrying a copy of this book by the brand’s founder.
Alongside these looks, some embellished with rhinestones or feathers, Blazy proposed more classic pieces from the iconic brand. This included its historic suit, which was presented in multiple facets: sleeveless versions; ultra-short skirts; and jackets buttoned at the back.
Celebrities in attendance included Teyana Taylor, Tilda Swinton, Pedro Pascal and Lupita Nyong'O.
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Armani
This show was one of the most anticipated of this edition, along with Jonathan Anderson’s for Dior, as it was the second haute couture collection for both designers.
Blazy debuted in this exclusive fashion category in January with a celebrated collection inspired by nature, featuring sensual looks full of floral and botanical details.
The 42-year-old Franco-Belgian designer was appointed at Chanel in late 2024, following his tenure at the Italian brand Bottega Veneta (Kering group). At the house of the double C, he took over from Virginie Viard. She was Karl Lagerfeld’s right-hand woman who took over the artistic direction of the French firm after the German designer’s death in 2019. Lagerfeld had dominated the brand for more than three decades.
Another highlight on Tuesday will be the Armani show. Following the death of founder Giorgio in September 2024, his niece, Silvana Armani, is now in charge of haute couture.
In January, she presented her first collection, “like a classic Armani, but with a touch of originality”. It was dominated by fluid, satin trouser suits and sumptuous evening gowns in a palette of black, white, nude pink and sea green.
In total, 30 houses will present their haute couture collections until Thursday. This is a fashion category to which only a handful of brands belong, with pieces destined for galas and red carpets.
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