Duran Lantink provokes at Jean Paul Gaultier, just as he should

After months of waiting, the moment finally arrived: Duran Lantink's debut at Jean Paul Gaultier. Those unfamiliar with Lantink's work might have been taken aback, left with a strange aftertaste. However, those who do know his work will see the perfect combination of Lantink's style and Jean Paul Gaultier's (JPG) heritage.

Lantink's debut collection was named 'Junior', a fitting title for the successor to Jean Paul Gaultier. His appointment as creative director follows several years of guest designers. While the guest designers applied their vision to the French fashion house's couture collections, Lantink makes his debut with the ready-to-wear collection. This marks the return of the ready-to-wear collection to the catwalk.

Lantink has been making a name for himself for years and made his debut on the official Paris Fashion Week schedule two years ago. He did so with a series of 'inflated' iconic items. Classic icons such as denim trucker jackets, bikinis and T-shirts were transformed in shape. At that moment, Lantink clearly created his own design language, which is now also evident in his debut at JPG.

Duran Lantink's debut at Jean Paul Gaultier is divisive but quintessentially Lantink

The orange opening look, for instance, seems to reference JPG's cone bra corset, but with the elongated breasts characteristic of Lantink's style. The reference to the iconic corset reappears later in a blue and white version, worn by a man. The inflated elements are seen in various bikinis, on shoulder sections and in bomber jackets.

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Several of JPG's signature style elements, such as nautical references and allusions to the naked body, were clearly visible. Some sailor hats were given a new shape and even the illusion of a tattooed body appeared on the catwalk.

The spring/summer 2026 collection also featured daring cut-outs that primarily revealed the hips. Consider a skirt cut dangerously low on the side and a top that barely covers the breasts. These cut-outs were not reserved for the female models on the catwalk; Lantink extends them to menswear items.

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The most talked-about pieces appear to be those printed with images of the naked body. Hairy bodies and even a penis are visible. It is clear that Lantink shares the same provocative design spirit as Jean Paul Gaultier. Gaultier himself was beaming from the front row during the show.

With the ready-to-wear debut now complete, the wait begins for Lantink's haute couture debut in January. The expectation is for something even more daring than the fashion world currently dares to dream.