Fewer compromises and more clarity: Buyers at German retailer Apropos share insights for SS26

The spring/summer 2026 season traditionally kicked off with Pitti Uomo. But while the Florentine menswear trade fair is dedicated to menswear, Apropos – The Concept Store focuses equally on womenswear and menswear from the very beginning of the season.

For over 40 years, the concept store, with locations in Cologne, Düsseldorf, Hamburg, Berlin, Rottach-Egern and Tegernsee, has been one of the most influential addresses in German luxury fashion retail. But how is Apropos responding to the current changes in the sector – and what values, strategies and curatorial decisions are crucial today to meet the expectations of an increasingly conscious and quality-oriented clientele?

Co-founder and co-CEO Klaus Ritzenhöfer and managing partner Henning Korb, who are jointly responsible for purchasing the men's and women's collections, took the time at the start of the season to give FashionUnited insights into upcoming trends and the understanding of contemporary luxury.

What feeling did you start the SS26 season with?

With a mixture of curiosity and responsibility. The spring/summer 2026 season felt like a turning point – both creatively and commercially.

How do the seasonal preparations work at Apropos?

Preparations started early. We analysed sales data, observed global trends, spoke with our teams in the stores and used our network of designers and industry insiders.

A holistic approach is important to us: We think in looks, in stories – and above all, we always have our customers in mind, their needs and their occasions.

How would you characterise the Apropos clientele – and has this changed over time?

Our customers are ageless, fashion-conscious, very informed and quality-conscious. The feeling for materials, workmanship and origin has increased. At the same time, we observed a certain price sensitivity – but only if the price-performance ratio isn’t right.

Do regional differences between the stores and the clientele located there also play a role in range planning?

Definitely. Every location has its own DNA. Different brands and designs work in Hamburg than in Cologne/Düsseldorf or Tegernsee or even Berlin.

We listen very carefully to what the local customers want – and adapt the order accordingly. However, the curation always remains in the Apropos spirit.

Do lessons and insights from the previous season flow into the current order round?

Yes, of course. Spring/summer 2025 was a difficult season; emotionally charged products worked better than purely ‘sensible’ ones. Colours, fabrics, craftsmanship – these components played a major role. We are therefore going more in-depth rather than in breadth.

What are you personally looking forward to in the upcoming order season – in both womenswear and menswear?

The return of emotion. Womenswear is becoming more playful and feminine again, without losing strength, such as at Chloé. In menswear, we are seeing an exciting dissolution of classic silhouettes – the interplay of volume, texture and elegance is a real joy. Here we are thinking of Tom Ford.

Are there any brands or themes that are currently particularly popular with your customers?

Celine is still very much in demand for women, as are The Row and Phoebe Philo. For men, we are observing increasing interest in products with noticeable added value – be it in the workmanship or in the storytelling.

What overarching trends are you currently observing in fashion – and how do these influence womenswear and menswear equally?

There is a certain re-romanticisation – soft colours, soft cuts, transparent fabrics. At the same time, tailoring is moving back into focus. Womenswear and menswear are visually approaching each other again, without merging – the language is similar, but the form of expression remains differentiated.

Nevertheless, it is noticeable that after a phase of fluid gender boundaries, fashion seems to be defining itself more clearly again. How do you classify this development?

It’s not a return to old patterns, but rather a reinterpretation. Feminine does not equal weak, masculine does not equal hard. Our clientele deliberately plays with codes. The separation offers new scope for clear fashion statements – without excluding the play with gender.

Apart from the big names: Are there labels or concepts that swim against the mainstream but still deserve attention?

Yes – labels like Rossi or Extreme Cashmere offer a different perspective on luxury. They are not loud, but incredibly strong in their message.

Do you currently also see opportunities for smaller or up-and-coming labels to become part of the Apropos portfolio?

Absolutely – our customers love discoveries. If the product is strong and the story behind it is convincing, we also give young labels a stage, like the German sneaker brand Thesing.

We are very open to this, but only if the quality can also keep up with Apropos’ standards in the long term.

What are the decisive factors for you when it comes to including new brands in the range?

Consistency with the Apropos brand world, quality of the collection, storytelling, delivery reliability, costing and also the question: Does the label have the potential to be a loyal partner over several seasons?

Looking at the overall picture: How do you assess the current development in the luxury sector – and what does this mean for Apropos?

Luxury is becoming quieter again – but no less luxurious. It has to be about understatement, about substance instead of just status and high prices, because we believe in sustainable luxury, in permanence and character – not in short-term hype.

We also don’t believe that artificially created queues due to artificially induced scarcity of goods would be a long-term model for success for Apropos.

What topics and values are currently at the top of the agenda for the luxury segment?

First and foremost, ‘value for money’, as well as craftsmanship, authenticity and individuality. Customers want to know where a product comes from, who made it, what makes it special. The topic of ‘quiet luxury’ is also still very present.

And finally: What do you wish for – both for Apropos and for the industry as a whole – this season?

Courage to have a vision. Fewer compromises, more clarity. For the industry, we would like to see more focus on content and attitude instead of staging and mainstream. For Apropos, this means that we continue to have the right feeling for what really touches people – fashionably and emotionally.

This interview was conducted in writing.

This article was translated to English using an AI tool.

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