How to build a modelling career in the age of nepo babies

Apple Martin, daughter of Gwyneth Paltrow and Chris Martin, made her runway debut at Chloé’s spring 2027 show in Paris on October 1. By the next day, social media had already labelled her a “nepo baby” — a term used to describe someone who appears to benefit professionally from their famous parents. She wasn’t the only member of fashion’s nepo baby multiverse to walk the runways this season.

Kaia Gerber, daughter of Cindy Crawford and Rande Gerber, walked for Khaite. Kai Schreiber, daughter of Naomi Watts and Liev Schreiber, walked Thom Browne. Ella Bleu Travolta, daughter of John Travolta and Kelly Preston, walked for Miu Miu. The list of the so-called “nepo babies” who have recently represented different brands continues with Lila Moss, Lily McMenamy, Iris Law, Julez Smith, Sunday Rose Kidman-Urban, Romeo Beckham, Henry Samuel, Amelia Gray, and others. Whether they deserve the title or not, it's up to the internet judges to review case by case. But it’s clear that over the past decade famous surnames have reshaped fashion casting.

In the late 1990s, supermodel Isabeli Fontana started her career at 13, without pre-established connections. “It was a lot of castings, shows, work, travel, getting to know a new team, and learning on the job. Today, there is a generation that grows up inside fashion: children of models, photographers, designers, people who already work in the industry. They know this world from an early age and arrive with a familiarity that I didn’t have. That changes the beginning a lot,” she told FashionUnited.

Fontana believes that although the beginning might be easier for someone with a famous surname, after that, “each person has to build their own path.” “You may have a different way in, but you have to do the work, make the most of the opportunities, and show who you are,” she said.

Like many fashion enthusiasts, stylist and creative director Maximilian D’Antonio says he is in a constant battle “between being completely obsessed and being really frustrated” about nepo babies on the runways. “The Kardashians are a perfect example of that love-hate relationship for me. I love pop culture, but sometimes it’s hard to separate that fascination from how I actually feel about the privilege behind it,” he said.

Jealous much?

D’Antonio says the backlash sometimes targeted at nepo babies “might be jealousy,” adding that “being born into money and fame gives you an easier way into an industry that other people spend years trying to enter. That doesn’t mean nepo babies don’t work hard. A famous family can also bring limitations on the choices you make.” For him, the issue is the imbalance: “So many freelancers are fighting for every euro just to make a living, while someone else can walk into an opportunity partly because of their family background.”

The creative director says that the growing number of nepo babies in fashion is a reason for anxiety. “It’s frustrating when brands seem more willing to invest in an already famous name than in someone who’s been working towards that opportunity for years. I understand that recognisable names bring attention. But I’d love to see brands put the same energy and investment into developing talent without those connections.”

Fontana, who has worked with Victoria’s Secret, Versace, Chanel, Valentino, Ralph Lauren, Balenciaga , among other luxury brands, says the profession “demands a lot” and models need to truly love what they do, no matter where they started. “There’s travel, castings, waiting, very intense days and quieter ones. You need to keep loving it to get through all those phases,” she said, adding that discipline and resilience also count.

“The career keeps changing. I started out very focused on the runway, then came campaigns, magazines, advertising, television... And I learned other things along the way. Fashion changes all the time. The market changes, clients change, the way of working changes. So you also need to be open to learning and trying new things,” she said.

The social media era

Speaking of changes, both Fontana and D’Antonio have seen how social media has transformed the fashion industry in recent years. D’Antonio says it feels like models are increasingly expected to create their own visibility and take on the financial risk themselves. “Flights, accommodation and developing a portfolio can become your own “investment”, even when you’re not earning consistently yet,” he said, adding that some agents and bookers also face limitations to support their models. “I’d like to see more shared responsibility for building a career, rather than expecting the model to carry everything alone. And staying hungry shouldn’t mean accepting every condition. A long-term career needs boundaries and enough financial stability to keep going.”

Fontana highlights how social media gives models a platform to show themselves to the brands, something that models like Alex Consani and Paloma Elsesser seem to have mastered with their millions of followers. “There are also more possibilities today. There are models who are very strong on the runway, others who work really well in campaigns, others who have built a huge presence on social media. And there are those who manage to do all of it. Brands have started looking at a broader set of things. That has also opened up space for more profiles and more personalities in fashion,” the Brazilian supermodel said.

Individuality matters

D’Antonio says models starting their career today should know that individuality matters more than ever, saying that brands are looking for “a distinctive face, personality and something that makes people stop and look.”

“Be proactive, stay hungry and keep showing up. But I don’t think ‘work harder’ is a complete answer, because plenty of people are already working incredibly hard,” he said. “You need to develop a point of view and give people something to remember beyond your portfolio. What’s your personality? What interests you? What do you bring to an image or a collaboration? Building relationships matters, too. People need to know that you’re someone they can rely on and enjoy working with.”

Fontana is the mother of two teenage boys. Asked if she would support her kids if they decide to pursue a career in fashion, she said she will be close by. “I’ll share my experiences, explain the things I know, and help however I can. But I also want them to discover their own path. I can show them what I’ve lived, but they need to try things for themselves and figure out what they really enjoy doing.”