Kenzo PFW AW26: A return to Kenzo Takada's home as a narrative of refuge

Kenzo has returned to the home of label's founder Kenzo Takada. During a period of economic uncertainty, Nigo, artistic director of the Kenzo brand (LVMH), chose to present the autumn/winter 2026/2027 collection in the intimate and poetic setting of the late Kenzo Takada's home.

At 8 Rue Sedaine in Paris, architect Xavier de Castella designed a peaceful haven for fashion designer Kenzo Takada: a house with wood panelling; a Japanese garden; a meditation space; and a pond. Kenzo Takada lived there until 2009. Today, it is inhabited by Isabelle and Olivier Chouvet, founders of The Independents (group of luxury creative agencies)

It was here that Nigo presented his autumn/winter 2026/2027 collection, with a desire to “return to the roots”. Back to basics: the storytelling is based on the idea of exploring the brand's past operations and adapting them for the upcoming season.

The collection is firmly rooted in revival, featuring a display of two vintage pieces and reflecting Nigo's intention to draw from the house's heritage.

Wardrobe compiles American, Asian and European references amid geopolitical turbulence

The visual codes of the autumn/winter 2026/2027 wardrobe are linked to the history and archetypes of American daily life: workwear; jeans; western shirts; and varsity jackets. These are complemented by Asian motifs, such as braided or sheathed cord closures (a traditional Chinese knot closure or pankou detail) and kimonos, alongside nods to Italian tailoring.

The collection includes the return of the tiger from the Kenzo Jungle line of the 1980s; the re-release of the Kite bag (1986), available as a shoulder bag and a tote; and the use of the letter 'K'. As for new additions, Nigo introduces the Kenzogram, a new motif for the brand's name.

While a checkerboard pattern appears on some pieces, it is the embroidered or printed flowers that capture the attention, starting with a printed tank top that could well become a bestseller.

Ultimately, it was a restrained presentation that contrasted with previous shows and those of other LVMH brands, offering a moment of respite in a market shaken by political turmoil.