LFW SS22: Paul Costelloe

Irish designer Paul Costelloe unveiled his spring/summer 2022 collection through a ‘phygital’ fashion show for this year’s London Fashion Week.

In a 45 look presentation, Costelloe presented a dynamic play on exaggerated silhouettes among more fitted designs, with a particular focus on layered babydoll dresses complete with accentuated flared hems. Ruffle details, billowing skirts and puffed sleeves defined the ultra-feminine collection, which implemented toile materials and hand-designed fabrics to complete the looks.

Body-forming leggings and structured blazers offered distinct contrasts to the delicate mini dresses and midis. The pieces coordinated with casual t-shirts and loose-fitting tunics, bringing together a range of correlating outfits each designed with matching prints.

Colours seemed to determine the collection structure, with looks flowing in order of colourways. Beige and citrus hues took to the stage first, shifting to mint greens and concluding with translucent blue tones.

Inspired by his Irish heritage, Costelloe implemented Celtic design styles into the range of bold silhouettes, aiming to evoke the feeling of the historic culture into the pieces. Additionally, printed and woven linens used throughout the collection originated from Ireland, produced in the country’s oldest linen fabric mill William Clark. Italian-manufactured cotton and woven blends were also featured alongside.

Linen was further worked into the Paul Costelloe bags, presented alongside the apparel, while leather belts intended to bring a functional touch to the overall collection. Some belts presented added attachment options and compact cases, providing extra practicality.

In a dramatic closing look, Costelloe presented a floral, drop-waist gown, complete with a full-balloon skirt and asymmetric hem. The design appeared to combine each individual look into one, further implementing the play on silhouettes while encased in intricate embroidery.