Michael Rider unveils a debut bourgeois and rock collection at Celine

Paris - A new chapter opens at Celine. American designer Michael Rider, successor to Hedi Slimane, unveiled his first collection on Sunday in Paris. The spring wardrobe had chic, bourgeois accents tinged with a rock touch.

“Returning to Celine in a changed world has been a deeply moving experience for me. It has also been an immense joy,” said the designer, a former collaborator of ex-creative director Phoebe Philo (2008-2018), in a statement. The French fashion house, according to Rider, embodies “quality, timelessness and style”. These are “ideals difficult to grasp” that he wanted to translate into this collection.

Large wool coats split at the back; very slim or carrot trousers for men and women; diamond-patterned jumpers; fitted blazers; and leather jackets make up this mixed-gender spring 2026 wardrobe. Elegant evening dresses and short fur jackets complete the collection.

As for accessories, the ties are striped in the style of Oxford students. Wide trousers are worn tucked into soft leather boots. There are also many flat shoes in a Zizi Richelieu style.

Belts are wide. Bags are imposing. Silk scarves are omnipresent. Jewellery is flashy and plentiful. The entire collection comes in a neutral palette of khaki, sand, white and black, interspersed with touches of bright colours, including green, red and very deep blues.

After Slimane’s filmed shows, Rider brought Celine back to the catwalk. The show took place at the brand’s headquarters in central Paris. Part of the show was outdoors, despite the pouring rain, on the eve of the start of Haute Couture Week.

Anna Wintour, who, despite the announcement of her recent departure from the editorial leadership of American Vogue, confirms her nickname of “Pope of Fashion”, was in the front row. She sat alongside Jonathan Anderson, the new creative director of Dior, another LVMH brand.

Rider was design director under Philo at Celine. He has also worked at Balenciaga and Polo Ralph Lauren. He took over from Slimane immediately after his departure in October 2024.

Slimane was creative director of Dior Homme from 2000 to 2007, then of Saint Laurent from 2012 to 2016. The French designer was appointed in 2018, replacing Philo. He shook up the bourgeois look forged by the Briton by injecting a rock vibe.

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