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New York FW24– Key Colors and Fabrics: red, brown and lots of fluff

By Jayne Mountford


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NYFW FW24 main image Credits: NYFW FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

New York Fashion Week for FW24 ran from Thursday, February 9 through Wednesday, February 14 with 50 designers participating. Despite strong competition for viral social media time from The Super Bowl LVIII, NYFW held its own. Arguably, the most talked about show was Raul Lopez’s ‘metrosexual’ show for Luar.

Beyonce at Luar FW24 Credits: Luar FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Beyoncé sat front row with mother Tina and sister Solange to watch nephew "Julez" Smith Jr.'s runway debut. Collina Strada and Christian Cowen both celebrated diversity and Puma transformed Grand Central into a futuristic amusement park.

Puma FW24 set design Credits: Puma FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

When it came to the old guard, most returned to their roots. Tommy Hilfiger showed his collection of classic preppy looks in Grand Central’s Oyster Bar. Thom Browne came back to NYFW with a show at ‘The Shed,’ inspired by Edgar Allen Poe’s ‘The Raven.’ As for Michael Kors, he utilized a legendary location, the original Barney’s store in Chelsea, Colors tended to be muted, with the exception of bright red, and fabric trends were focused on texture and surface interest.

Lady in Red

In a week that mostly lacked bright color, saturated shades of red were seen in many collections. In a series of looks that ranged from tailored separates to eveningwear, it represented female power and strength. Pantone had predicted that this particular hue would be seen during NYFW FW24 stating that, “PANTONE 19-1558 ‘Scarlet Smile’ is a glamorous and decadent red that captures our desire.”

Badgley Mischka

Badgley Mischka FW24/ Look 26 Credits: Badgley Mischka FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 26: a full-length fitted red crepe coat dress with self-belt; opera-length red leather gloves and a red satin clutch.

Negris LeBrum

Negris LeBrum FW24/ Look 7 Credits: Negris LeBrum FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 7: a red ostrich leather two-piece suit with a one-button jacket and straight leg pants.

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung FW24/ Look 1 Credits: Prabal Gurung FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 1: a full-length red evening coat over a red turtle-neck and a shiny skirt with red leather long gloves, a red skullcap and point-toe shoes.

Sandy Liang

Sandy Liang FW24/ Look 29 Credits: Sandy Liang FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 29: a tailored red wool coat with tortoise buttons over a zip-up jacket and mini skirt. Black round toed boots with a bow detail completed the look.

Carolina Herrera: designer, Wes Gordon

Carolina Herrera FW24/ Look 1 Credits: Carolina Herrera FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 1: a dress with a red mock turtle-neck top and a black satin asymmetric skirt over black skinny pants and red patent point toe flats.

Coffee Break

‘Latte dressing’ continues to resonate as a chic alternative to black. Shades of brown colored a variety of garments including puffers, leather jackets, dresses and tailored separates.

Fforme: designer, Paul Helber

Fforme FW24/ Look 24 Credits: Fforme FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 24: a brown puffer jacket over a brown knit top and pants with a brown knit skullcap and brown ballet flats.

Helmut Lang: designer, Peter Do

Helmut Lang FW24/ Look 18 Credits: Helmut Lang FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 18: a two-button tailored brown blazer with matching culottes; a brown oversized tote and brown knee boots finished the look.

Michael Kors Collection

Michael Kors FW24/ Look 41 Credits: Michael Kors FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 41: a shiny brown leather jacket with surface effects with a shearling collar and a matching knee-length skirt. Accessories included brown point toe shoes, a tiny satchel and tortoiseshell sunglasses.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin

Saint Sernin FW24/ Look 21 Credits: Saint Sernin FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 21: a brown leather bomber jacket and a matching skirt with silver grommets, plus brown hose and brown pumps.

Luar: designer Raul Lopez

Luar FW24/ Look 7 Credits: Luar FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 7: a brown wool turtle-neck dress with broad shoulders, brown shiny boots and an oversized bronze-colored tote.

Gender Reveals

In recent seasons using classic plaid and bouclé has gone from strength to strength, signaling as it does, the current mood for gender fluidity. It showed up in a variety of styles with both masculine and feminine influences.

Kobi Halperin

Halperin FW24/ Look 36 Credits: Halperin FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 36: a charcoal wool coat over pinstripe separates that included a jacket, pants and a bustier.

Michael Kors

Michael Kors FW24/ Look 44 Credits: Michael Kors FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 44: a double-breasted fitted long line jacket in brown and cream plaid and a knee-length skirt with a split; accessorized by a skinny belt, tiny satchel and brown patent pumps.

Monse: designers, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia

Monse FW24/ Look 4 Credits: Monse FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 4: a grey/brown floor length tweed coat with a brown suede collar, over a matching vest, deep vee navy sweater and blue and white striped shirt. Strappy sandals finished the look.

Retrofete: designer, Ohad Seroya

Retrofete FW24/ Look 1 Credits: Retrofete FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 1: a Prince of Wales check floor-length coat over a matching double-breasted blazer and a mini skirt. Accessories included a black valise and pumps.

The Salting: designers, Michael Ward and Michael Smaldonem

The Salting FW24/ Look 3 Credits: The Salting FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 3: a cropped bouclé jacket in black and white plaid with matching drawstring-waist shorts, a white shirt and tie and black hose, socks and black boots.

Thom Browne

Thom Browne FW24/ Look 14 Credits: Thom Browne FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 14: a wide collared black, grey and white tweed plaid coat over contrasting plaid layers. Accessories included a net covered hat, black tie and clear zip-up booties.

Knit Wit

Cocooning was a big theme running through the week and designers showed a variety of head-to-toe cozy knit looks.

Aknvas: Christian Juul Nielsen

Aknvas FW24/ Look 1 Credits: Aknvas FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 1: a pale lavender cable knit oversized sweater embellished with pompoms and matching pants.

Bibhu Mohapatra

Mohapatra FW24/ Look 7 Credits: Mohapatra FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 7: a cream-colored cable-knit maxi dress with an oversized scarf. Other accessories included an extra-wide leather belt and an embellished green beret.

3.1 Phillip Lim

3.1 Philip Lim/ Look 24 Credits: 3.1 Philip Lim/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 22: a space-dyed knit dress in green, blue and white with a polo collar over matching pants.

Alejandra Alonso Rojas

Rojas FW24/ Look 13 Credits: Rojas FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 13: a cream pointelle knit tight dress and cream leather boots.

Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson FW24/ Look 40 Credits: Ulla Johnson FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 40: a maxi dress in bands of purple, ochre and cream-colored fair-isle knit with a matching sweater. Burgundy Mary-Janes and ochre socks finished the look.

Fur Sure

Again, the cocoon theme drove this fabric trend with many designers showing fluffy textures for outerwear, often in winter white or blond colorations.

Gabriela Hearst

Gabriela Hearst FW24/ Look 11 Credits: Gabriela Hearst FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 11: a shaggy knit cream-colored coat over a matching dress and black boots.

Sally Lapointe

La Pointe FW24/ Look 4 Credits: La Pointe FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 4: a faux fur short coat, marabou feather bolero over a sheer knit top, short shorts, white hose and beige boots.

Puppets & Puppets: designer, Carly Mark

Puppets & Puppets FW24/ Look 3 Credits: Puppets & Puppets FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 3: a natural colored faux fur coat over green satin pants and a blue leather bag.

Proenza Schouler: designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez

Proenza Schouler FW24/ Look 12 Credits: Proenza Schouler FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 12: a cream-colored coat in short faux fur in a midi-length with white boots and red satchel.

Ulla Johnson

Ulla Johnson FW24/ Look 41 Credits: Ulla Johnson FW24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 41: a cream-colored marabou feather coat with a shoestring tie belt and grey suede boots.