Paris Fashion Week FW22 has come to an end and with it the major FW22 ready-to-wear runway season. It started and finished under a cloud of war and no one can predict what will happen in the coming days and weeks. Olivier Rousteing admitted to feeling uncomfortable presenting the FW22 Balmain collection while witnessing the violent attack on Ukraine. In doing so he most likely echoed a sentiment shared by all designers showing in Paris.
While the plight of the Ukrainian people was never far from attendees' minds, after two years of the Pandemic, buyers and the fashion press were keen to return to watching live shows. Some strong trends emerged; here are five to look out for.
Ready-to-wear collections are designed months before they are shown, so any references to the current war being waged in Ukraine were co-incidental. Even so, looks with armor-like elements were shown at Balmain, Rochas and Dior. In another direction, designers including Rick Owens, Marine Serra, Anrealage, Didu and Ottolinger showed looks featuring the sort of protective details worn by motorbike riders.
Trend forecasters have been discussing Y2K fashions for a few seasons now and FW22 will certainly have its fair share of late nineties and early aughties' looks including high rise and wide legged bottoms. Vaquera, Ami and Gauchera all showed baggy jeans; Givenchy's were ripped up. At Acne Studio the jeans were patchworked, high-waisted and belted; both Balmain and Diors' jeans had corseted waistbands.
Tartan, plaid and check wools can represent many moods, from preppy and traditional to rebellious and punk rock. Following several other fashion weeks, Paris showed a myriad of versions. There were 'mod' looks including a two -piece suit at Akris and a cape at Nina Ricci. Uma Wang, Dior, Off-White and Victoria/Tomas all showed check separates and at Marina Serra, a show stopping coat in a variety of plaids, checks and tartans.
Head to toe sweater knits appeared on many runways. At Acne Studios they were deconstructed and paired to matching scarves and shown over contrast legging/boots. Mame Kurogouchi's collection included an ankle length intarsia knit multi-colored dress. Chloé showed several spaced dyed sweater dresses as did Stella Maccartney.
In contradiction to the other trends, designers showed very short, body-conscious looks in colorful prints, often accessorized with thigh high boots. Andrew Gn, Ellie Saab, Leonard Paris and Isabel Marant all showed versions.