Rakuten FWT street style defined by black ties and sporty eveningwear

Japan’s clothing style is well known for its contemporary and unconventional forms, often mixing western garments (or yōfuku) with traditional and heritage elements to create an aesthetic that is truly unique to the country. This could be seen on the streets of the rising fashion capital Tokyo, which last week was abuzz with its ongoing fashion week. FashionUnited takes a look at some of the stand-out trends presented by attendees on the street for the autumn/winter 2024.

Bouncers and black tie

The white shirt-black tie combo has been a popular look this season, formulating an outfit that made many reminiscent of a club bouncer. This could be seen in the use of oversized bombers, loose-fit blazers and long-line black coats, all of which gave a sense of aloof formality akin to the air many security personnel also possess. These looks were sometimes accessorised with statement handbags, chunky knits or discrete belts, all of which tied the outfits together in more casual ways.

An androgynous overlap

Skirts as an added layer to pants were a common theme among Tokyo’s fashion elite. Here, the most popular iteration of the style was the use of a tartan kilt, which could be seen over jeans, tailored trousers and flared pants alike. Typically, the wearer juxtaposed the style with a contrasting print, a far cry from the more monochrome looks worn by others, in which pleated skirts were paired with long-form blazers and traveller’s crease pants.

Office and sports get eveningwear upgrade

An elevated adaptation of both sportswear and office attire was a fascinating movement to have emerged this season. In sportswear, this was present in voluminous chiffons that were layered under, over or attached to branded athletic jackets. Meanwhile, other attendees showed up in a new take on the office suit, merging fitted shirting and oversized blazers with eveningwear elements, such as a formal gown or heavily embroidered skirt.

Sheer exaggeration

The trend for bustled up chiffon continued into exaggerated silhouettes, with an array of capacious dresses that took to the streets in all their immensely ruffled layers. These were contrasted by the more minimalist sheer overlays, which typically could be found in extended t-shirts and maxi dresses. Underneath, attendees donned sports sweaters and jeans or a similar length skirt in a clashing tone.

A new formality

Meanwhile, office attire continued to take alternate shapes elsewhere. Some opted for blazers that accentuated the classic shape through contemporary tailoring methods, such as diversified pleating or changing up the jacket style to instead take on the form of a dress. Others stuck closely to the traditional concept of a suit, albeit swapped out the trousers for pleated skirts, a look that could be seen on both men and women, alike.

Teddy bear-outerwear

A cosier trend was that of fuzzy outerwear. These, like other trends, varied in approach and appearance, namely in the use of colour. While some stuck to eye-catching brights, like olive green and cobalt blue, others displayed more subtle propositions in creams, browns and pastels. The fluff, meanwhile, also differed, through either textures that could be mistaken for a teddy bear or a material that could be more closely linked to real fur.

Shredded and mismatched anarchy

There were additionally some more punky displays of fashion on the streets too, however. Many attendees appeared to favour DIY techniques for their own attire, mixing and matching materials, garments and accessories to create haphazard yet still inexplicably stylish outfits. From shredded trousers and skirts to patchwork silk bombers and tattered sweaters, there was no shortage of creativity outside of the fashion shows.

Cocooning layers

The sense of anarchic fashion in the prior trend distinctly contradicted the calmer and more elusive outerwear trend seen here. For many, cocooning shapes were a favourite silhouette as the top layer. Flowing coats held a precedence above all, appearing in serene colourways like camel and khaki. Bomber jackets also took on a rounded form, with the orbiting bodies offset by similarly billowing sleeves.