Saint Laurent designer Vaccarello hints at change

Paris - Saint Laurent's chief designer of the last decade, Anthony Vaccarello, hinted at a possible passing of the flame at the French brand on Tuesday at a dazzling gold-soaked catwalk show in Paris.

Presenting his Spring-Summer 2027 collection in front of the Eiffel Tower, the Belgian wrote enigmatically about change in show notes shared with attendees following persistent speculation that he is heading for the exit.

"A light shines all the more brightly because we know it cannot be held. What passes sometimes leaves more light than what remains," he wrote in his opening sentence.

Appointed in 2016 to succeed Hedi Slimane, 44-year-old Vaccarello has established a distinctive style over the last 10 years: sensuality heightened by sheer fabrics, powerful shoulder structure, tuxedos, and metallic fabrics.

"Nothing radiates and reflects light like gold, and it's that single evocative color which defines Anthony Vaccarello's Saint Laurent Summer 2027 collection," the show notes on Tuesday added.

Under Vaccarello's direction, the house surpassed three billion euros ($3.4 billion) in sales in 2022, before experiencing a slowdown, like the rest of the sector.

Speculation about imminent change at Saint Laurent, which is owned by fashion conglomerate Kering, has been at fever pitch in the industry, but the company has not commented.

Many label owners and chief executives are looking for solutions to revive their fortunes in a tough commercial environment for luxury brands.

At Balenciaga, Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is reportedly also in the sights of new Kering boss Luca de Meo, having failed in the difficult task of maintaining sales levels achieved by his predecessor Demna, according to specialist blog Miss Tweed.

At Chloe, artistic director Chemena Kamali, in the job since 2023, is also being pushed towards the door over a lack of profitability, according to investigative outlet Glitz.

Tuesday was the second day of Paris Women's Fashion Week where Christian Dior chief designer Jonathan Anderson showcased his latest collection at a celeb-packed show in the historic Tuileries gardens in central Paris.

Singers Rihanna and Rosalia as well as actress Jennifer Lawrence looked on as Anderson sent out models in romantic, folk-inspired outfits that harked back to the 1970s and offered a striking departure from the classic designs of the iconic Parisian label.