Skirts at Thom Browne and linen at Armani combat Milanese heat
To combat the Milanese heat, Thom Browne offered skirts and Armani presented linen on the final day of Milan Men's Fashion Week on Monday.
Silvana Armani and Leo Dell'Orco showcased models in fluid materials such as linen and knitwear, in shades of green and sand. This first spring/summer collection since the passing of Giorgio Armani in September 2025 featured deconstructed, elegant and comfortable jackets. It remained true to the designer's signature style, discreetly referenced by 'G' and 'A' brooches.
Pocketed gilets, a few lightweight beanies and straw hats added a traveller's touch to the collection. It was presented in the courtyard of Armani's historic building in central Milan, which was still sweltering in the late afternoon.
Thom Browne: preppy and quirky garden at Palazzo Serbelloni
Earlier, Thom Browne had presented his more unconventional and distinctly Anglo-Saxon vision of summer in his “garden”. The American designer, showing his menswear collection for the first time in Milan, offered short shorts and long, below-the-knee skirts. These were alternated under checked jackets.
“Thom's garden”, the theme of the show, was brought to life through embroidered bee, dragonfly and water lily motifs. The show took place in the courtyard of the Palazzo Serbelloni, a stone's throw from Milan's Quadrilatero della Moda. The impassive models all wore regulation ties and beekeeper's veils over their boater hats. Some blazers were cut above the elbow, reminiscent of womenswear. The “groom” also appeared in shorts under a pearl-embroidered tulle veil.
The designer's guests, his team and the seating were all covered in cool, striped, white and blue seersucker. The team handed out water and ice cream to help guests withstand the windless 35-degree heat, measured at 4pm in the majestic gravel courtyard, which was half-exposed to the sun. Air kisses were exchanged to avoid sweat, and the audience tried to cool down with small electric fans.
Reinterpretation of classic codes for 2027
The designer presented “an evolution of his founding identity, refreshed for spring, reinterpreted for Milan,” a “2027 vision of American preppy codes,” the Zegna group brand explained in a statement.
“Classic tailoring is lightened through cool wools... open-weave cottons, graphic checked wool piqués, and lightweight cashmeres.” The layers worn underneath “are just as light: poplin shirts with contrasting, removable collars and cuffs, layered over fine cotton knits,” the brand added.
After showcasing a few dog-shaped bags, the designer, known for his quirky sense of humour, took his bow wearing a frog mask.
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