The designers moving fast: Why Conner Ives, Emily Dawn Long and Mfpen are on shoppers’ radar

Lyst’s Q3 2026 Index was led by Prada, but three emerging names stood out further down the report: Conner Ives, Emily Dawn Long and Mfpen.

Based in London, New York and Copenhagen respectively, the three labels share an approach rooted in craft, vintage references and deadstock materials. Lyst named them the quarter’s brands moving fast, as a sign of growing shopper interest in designers with a clear point of view.

“This quarter, the brands that did well across the board had a unique point of view and design language," Katy Lubin, Lyst's VP brand and comms, told FashionUnited. "Conner Ives, Emily Dawn Long and Mfpen all embody this: they are instantly recognisable and have a strong visual identity. Each also had a standout moment that pushed them to new audiences, driving discoverability as well as desire. For Emily Dawn Long, it was the ‘Crack of Dawn’ campaign; for Conner Ives, the Reconstituted Vintage Robe, worn by everyone from Kate Moss to Hailey Bieber; and for Mfpen, its collaboration with New Balance."

Lubin added that, in terms of markets, the US and Europe are the key drivers of demand on Lyst and the company has seen a consumer appetite for pieces and design language that feel handcrafted, ornate and have a story to tell. "It’s also why Dries Van Noten has made it into Hottest Brands for the first time, with its Scarf-Skirt among the Hottest Products," she said.

Conner Ives

Searches for Conner Ives rose 49 percent in the quarter, helped by the label’s Reconstituted Vintage Robe. Born in Bedford, New York, Ives moved to London in 2014 to study at Central Saint Martins and graduated in 2020. While still a student, he dressed Adwoa Aboah for the 2017 Met Gala, which led Rihanna to hire him at Fenty.

Ives founded his label in 2021, the same year he was named a finalist for the LVMH Prize. He works largely with vintage and deadstock garments, which he reworks into new pieces. One of his best-known items is the bias-cut headscarf dress. His slogan T-shirt “Protect the Dolls” became a sensation in 2025. That May, Ives won the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund, which came with a 150,000-pound grant and a year of mentorship.

Emily Dawn Long

Emily Dawn Long launched her label in 2019, starting with tie-dye pieces made in her New York apartment. The brand now uses a range of artisanal techniques, from crocheted hats to halter sweaters. It became a cult label for its vegetable-dyed tie-dye styles and its hand-crocheted cotton “A Hat Named Wanda,” famously worn by Kendrick Lamar. In 2025, Long turned her Lower East Side studio into a by-appointment store.

Originally from Georgia, Long makes both menswear and womenswear. She is a 2026 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist. For spring/summer 2027, she unveiled her collection through a four-minute short film, “The Crack of Dawn.” Her best-known pieces include the Kipling Tank and the Utah Dress.

Dawn Long's "Spoiled Boys" T-shirt was featured in the Lyst Q3 26 Index as one of the trending products, generating a 17 percent increase in demand.

Mfpen

Founded by Sigurd Bank, Mfpen turns deadstock fabric left over from other brands’ production into limited product runs. The Danish label is built on simplicity, functionality and sustainability. It marked its 10th anniversary with its spring/summer 2027 “Deadlines” show at Copenhagen Fashion Week.

At that show, Mfpen unveiled a New Balance Made in USA 992 with the brand’s signature “N” logo removed from the sidewalls, leaving only a faint outline. The grey suede-and-mesh sneaker is expected in March 2027.

Mfpen x New Balance 991v1 was also featured in trending products driving a 37 percent rise in demand for the label.