TMU Scholars Publish first textbook dedicated to plus-size patternmaking

Plus-Size Patternmaking for Womenswear, co-authored by Leila Kelleher, a fashion scholar at Toronto Metropolitan University (TMU), and technical designer Gabby Brown, has been published, marking what is described as the first textbook dedicated exclusively to plus-size patternmaking.

The book addresses a longstanding gap in fashion education and the apparel industry, where traditional curricula have largely focused on standard sizing, often leaving students underprepared to design for plus-size consumers. Despite growing demand for size-inclusive training, formal instruction in plus-size patternmaking has remained limited in many fashion programs.

Designed for fashion faculty and industry professionals, the textbook provides drafting instructions specifically developed for plus-size bodies and covers the full pattern-drafting process, including size chart development, mobility and wearing ease considerations, and adapting dress forms for extended sizing. The authors say the aim is to make it easier for institutions to integrate plus-size patternmaking into existing curricula.

Kelleher, whose research focuses on size-inclusive design, sustainable fashion and biomechanics in apparel development, said the book seeks to improve garment fit and expand access to specialised technical knowledge. Brown, a technical designer and consultant in the U.S. fashion industry, noted that the project emerged from discussions about the lack of accessible plus-size expertise in formal education.

A book launch and discussion with the authors will take place February 27 at TMU’s Rogers Communication Centre.

TMU, established in 1948, offers more than 60 undergraduate and 65 graduate programs and enrolls nearly 48,000 students.