Trendstop brings FashionUnited readers a look at the Fall/Winter 2023-24 men’s collection highlights from Paris Fashion Week.
Paris menswear blended the reality of today with a forward look into the future. The climate crisis and the fashion industry’s need to evolve accordingly put sustainability was high on the agenda as collections featured innovative ways to upcycle, recycle and repair. As Gen Z become the driving force behind change, designers were inspired to appeal to their fearless sensibilities, combining environmentalism with explorations of genderfluidity and redefining masculinity for the modern age.
Resembling the set of a dystopian future, the Marine Serre runway was adorned with towers of deadstock fabric. Delivering a Zero-waste presentation, the collection explored how the industry can play its part in de-escalating the climate crisis, ideas of transformation and repair over creation. Using only found materials, several garments made predominantly from canvas tote bags, made commentary on the notion of the ‘eco-friendly’ tote bag. The show notes provided an estimate that even a sustainably crafted tote bag needs to be used 20,000 times to offset the production.
The theme for Steven Passaro’s collection was water as a metaphor for emotion and the changing and softening of ideas around traditional masculinity. Targeting Gen Z and their openness to the new, gender blending pieces incorporated 3D technology and sustainable methods. Strong tailored silhouettes were contrasted against silk layering whilst tulle jacquard patterns and digital prints were reminiscent of water and adorned with embroidered embellishments sourced from India.
Making their Paris Fashion Week debut, Airei’s collection highlighted the realism of humanity. Titled “Refuge, Deluge, Transfuge”, it encouraged viewers to immerse themselves in acts of community service. Practical garments featured slouchy, oversized cuts and asymmetrical finishes inspired by workwear. Paint splatter prints were inspired by building site overalls. A collaboration with Churchill saw leather-look garments made using recycled sushi waste while utilitarian, protective footwear collaborations included Dunlop’s rubber clogs made from discarded tyres.
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