Under new direction: SS26 sets new standards on social media

The true success of a designer's debut can often only be measured in the third season, once the first collection has arrived in boutiques. However, subtle signs can be detected beforehand, indicating whether a fashion house has captured the zeitgeist with its choice of a new creative director. Rarely has the anticipation been as high as it was this season.

The spring/summer 2026 collections undoubtedly marked a historic moment. Numerous renowned houses presented their visions under new creative direction for the first time. The result? A season that has proven to be one of the most influential in recent years, at least when considering its resonance on social media.

With a record 881.2 million dollars in Earned Media Value (EMV), the reach of the fashion weeks grew by five percent year-over-year. This growth was driven by a 23 percent increase in published content, a 22 percent rise in influencer presence, and a six percent increase in audience engagement.

These figures impressively demonstrate that the decision for a new creative direction can have not only an aesthetic but also a measurable communicative impact. Which brands, however, were particularly adept at harnessing the power of social media? This is precisely the question that the PR and image agency Karla Otto explored in its analysis of the SS26 season.

Debuts vs. mainstays

Paris and Milan were particularly prominent, leading with 57 and 28 percent of the total Earned Media Value, respectively. Within this strong duo, Dior dominated. Although technically not a classic debut, Jonathan Anderson's first womenswear collection for the house generated 90.6 million dollars in EMV, a 46 percent increase YoY. This performance overshadowed not only the other debuts but also all other shows of the season.

In comparison, Chanel, which generated high expectations with a new creative director, achieved slightly less than half of that with 42.8 million dollars in EMV, increasing its visibility by 33 percent. Additionally, Karla Otto attributes the “outstanding viral moment” to Chanel, thanks to a social-first presentation and a soundtrack specifically designed for viral effects.

The other three brands that made it into the top five highest-ranking houses of the season – Prada, Louis Vuitton, and Maison Valentino – continued their successful communication strategies without any personnel changes. Their success was primarily based on carefully selected influencers and celebrity guests. Prada particularly benefited from the presence of the South Korean pop band Enhypen, which alone contributed 18.3 million dollars to the brand's Earned Media Value.

Prada's continued success in collaborating with K-pop stars is particularly noteworthy. Since the autumn/winter 2023 season, the insights teams at Karla Otto and Lefty have also observed a significant rise of Thai actors in the digital influence rankings.

In the SS26 season, two Thai stars claimed the top spots as the most influential personalities for the first time, overtaking the usually ubiquitous K-pop icons. Nevertheless, the latter maintain their dominance in public discourse. K-pop stars generated an impressive 63.2 percent of the total media share of voice. This is a testament to their enduring cultural impact, as exemplified by Enhypen.

Fashion presented as film

As brands reshuffle their creative leadership, the audience's focus is increasingly shifting behind the scenes. With the growing attention the Fashion Month season receives on social media, audiences are becoming more interested in the personalities who work beyond the runway. They are curious about the people who shape the emotion and energy of the industry from behind the scenes.

In London, for instance, Mac's creative director and make-up artist Dominic Skinner was among the week's most influential figures. With just two behind-the-scenes posts from the Richard Quinn show, he generated nearly 900,000 dollars in Earned Media Value, securing the third spot in the ranking of the most impactful profiles. In Paris, a video of the Chanel atelier's seamstresses went viral. It showed the final touches being put on a final look, an intimate moment that highlighted the house's craftsmanship.

The major fashion houses are responding with a new awareness of behind-the-scenes visibility. Many are specifically investing in livestreams; backstage content; or collaborations with creators who authentically capture these new perspectives. Boss, for example, combined its show broadcast with a celebrity Q&A hosted by Queer Eye star Antoni Porowski. Ralph Lauren collaborated with creator Isabelle Allain on a backstage series, while Fendi and Dior partnered with fashion filmmaker Loïc Prigent to strengthen the documentary dimension of their brand worlds. Prigent's TikTok video, which showed an emotional Jonathan Anderson behind the scenes at the Dior show, has been viewed 4.6 million times to date.

In parallel, the industry is increasingly turning to cinematic narrative forms to convey its messages. Brands are drawing on storytelling strategies from cinema to emotionally connect with their audience and extend the physical runway show with a digital narrative. Dior presented a retrospective documentary directed by Adam Curtis, while Gucci opted for cinematic entertainment with The Tiger, a short film by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn.

Actors are also important brand ambassadors away from the screen. They constituted one-third of the total talent line-up and generated 217.8 million dollars in EMV, an increase of 25.8 percent YoY. Dolce & Gabbana staged a particularly impressive moment when Meryl Streep, Stanley Tucci, and Simone Ashley appeared at the show for the filming of The Devil Wears Prada 2, collectively generating 8.2 million dollars in EMV.