Water sportswear Roberto Ricci Designs: passion for the ocean
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RRD - Roberto Ricci Designs was founded between Grosseto, Tuscany and the beaches of the Hawaiian island of Maui. Young windsurfer Roberto Ricci first designed handmade surfboards, later fashion. Today, he has built a small empire with the ocean at its centre.
1989 was the year Ricci discovered the secrets of the surf gurus. It was not long before he became a shaper himself, someone who designs and builds surfboards. In 1994, he launched his first collection under the brand name RRD - Roberto Ricci Designs. At first, this included only surfboards, later the clothing line was added, which was developed in collaboration with Ricci's friend Roberto Bardini. The first collection consisted of technical water sports clothing inspired by two different waters: the Mediterranean and the Pacific.
“Freedom of movement is the essence of the company”
This double inspiration made it possible to create garments that combine the Mediterranean culture - associated with classic beauty and the serenity of a "friendly" sea - with the more dynamic characteristics of the Pacific Ocean, which beats higher (sea) waves. Thus RRD produced swimming trunks with surf-resistant technical characteristics connected with Mediterranean style - something completely new. Fabrics such as tartan, sequins, pony fur and Chinese silk were used, and the brand quickly gained popularity in the more fashionable and daring Italy.
Parts of the European market is somewhat more restrained and, according to Ricci, awareness is to rise by increasing its presence in premium stores. The design has also become a bit calmer. Today, the company focuses on functional fabrics, including all-rounder Lycra, the company's trademark, which is the subject of continuous research. The garments are freed from anything that is not needed and reinterpreted with a strong ‘Made in Italy’ spirit. "Nothing is sewn, everything is cut with a laser and then glued. The garments are comfortable, windproof and waterproof and have a perfect cut combined with a great style," enthuses Roberto Ricci. And: "Freedom of movement is the essence of the company".
In fact, it is easy to imagine wearing pants made of performance fabric in 30+ degree heat as well, as was the case at the brand’s booth at the Pitti Uomo. A brand new collection was shown there: denim, made from one hundred percent Lycra. "A world premiere," says Ricci. Another highlight of the new season is a collaboration with Liberty London, whose classic prints from the archives were used on shirts and blouses made of four-way stretch polyamide. Each garment is accompanied by the history of the traditional patterns with names such as "Morris Butterfly" or "Strawberry Thief".
“We are not green, we are blue like the ocean”
Storytelling is part of the brand's identity. For six years now, illustrated novels have been published every season under the RRD label. They are always related to the sea. ‘Treasure Island' by Robert Louis Stevenson is one, or 'Taiphoon' by Joseph Conrad and a brand new one, 'Moby Dick' by Herman Melville. The label has a total of twelve different titles or a circulation of 300,000 copies. "We are almost a publishing house," jokes Roberto Ricci.
In addition to storytelling, research plays a prominent role at RRD. The company's research department develops new solutions using its Holistic Technology, a multi-layer overlapping technique that combines unique Lycra fabrics with open-cell rubber that allows the skin to breathe. Fabrics and apparel are designed and developed in Italy, while finishes and details are carefully tested to withstand the market rationalities that put the production process before the product.
And what about sustainability? "We believe that everyone who loves the ocean is an environmentalist by nature. We don't want to use sustainability as a marketing strategy or greenwash. Our value and supply chain is certified from start to finish and we try to reduce our waste to a minimum. But we're not green, we're blue, like the ocean."
Image: PR Roberto Ricci
This article was originally published on FashionUnited DE. Edited and translated by Simone Preuss.