Could Hodakova’s Ellen Larsson be Marni’s next creative director?

As rumours swirl around the creative leadership of Italian fashion house Marni, one name has emerged: Ellen Hodakova Larsson, the Swedish designer behind the critically lauded label Hodakova and winner of the 2024 LVMH Prize.

WWD first reported Larsson is being considered as a possible successor to Francesco Risso, whose tenure at Marni has been marked by poetic eccentricity and artistic storytelling, but who is exiting the brands. The OTB Group now has three brands with creative turnarounds, after Simone Bellotti moved to Jil Sander and star Diesel designer Glenn Martens heads over to Maison Margiela.

Larsson’s rise has been swift in recent seasons. Known for her sculptural tailoring and high-concept use of upcycled materials, transformed belts become bustiers, shirt collars reimagined as accessories, she represents a new guard of designers deeply attuned to craft, sustainability, and emotional resonance. Winning the LVMH Prize in September 2024 placed her firmly on the international radar, not just as a talent to watch, but as a viable candidate for a top-tier creative role.

A natural next chapter?

From a business standpoint, OTB’s strategy in recent years has leaned towards creative renewal. Larsson’s design language, minimalist at first glance, conceptual upon inspection, could provide a compelling evolution for Marni. Risso’s maximalist sensibility repositioned the brand as a critical darling, but there was as schism between the runway collections and what worked at retail. A shift towards a more rigorous, sustainability-forward approach may align with both market sentiment and consumer demand.

For Larsson, stepping into a legacy house like Marni would mark a decisive leap, one that brings with it both opportunity and scrutiny.

Whether Larsson is ultimately named creative director or not, her emergence in conversations of this level is significant. It signals a broader shift in the industry’s talent pipeline, where craft, circularity, and independent authorship are no longer niche values but regarded as qualities of success.