From heritage to modernity: Inside Moss’ strategy to reinvent its physical retail footprint

In 2023, Moss Bros dropped the ‘Bros’ from its name, signaling a strategic pivot towards positioning itself as a contemporary menswear label – one that retains the essence of its storied heritage. This rebrand was marked by the reintroduction of the brand as simply ‘Moss’, accompanied by a series of store openings under the streamlined name. Now, with its new identity firmly intact, the brand is doubling down on expanding its physical presence under the direction of its head of visual development, Robbi Hicks.

Since the inception of the rebrand strategy, Hicks has been orchestrating the outward projection of Moss – from store design and styling to collaborating with design, art direction, marketing and brand teams. Recently, much of his focus has been dedicated to refreshing key retail locations, including the Oxford Street West store, alongside new openings in Birmingham’s Bullring, May 31, and Manchester’s Trafford Centre, coming this summer. His challenge: to merge Moss’ 174-year heritage with the evolving tastes of the modern man.

Prior to the refurbishment, Oxford Street West, which reopened last week, was already considered one of Moss’ top-performing stores among its 114-strong store portfolio, providing a naturally bustling backdrop for the rejuvenated flagship. “We want people to step back and either re-evaluate us or discover Moss for the first time, and be pleasantly surprised by our store colleagues’ expertise, the quality of our products, and the overall store experience,” Hicks told FashionUnited in an interview.

A case study in balancing heritage and contemporary appeal in menswear

This philosophy extends into Moss’ brand campaigns since the rebrand. Over the last few years, the team has carefully reimagined and reconstructed what they want customers to perceive when they think of Moss. For Hicks, the enduring thread is ‘quiet luxury’, timeless designs that continue to attract discerning consumers. “It all comes back to craft and a deep understanding of our product’s history,” he explained.

This knowledge is an imperative part of the Moss business. Store employees must be well versed in fabrics, fits and details, armed and ready to answer any question that may arise. This emphasis on knowledge, above being loud and attention-seeking, enables Moss to stand out in an increasingly saturated menswear market, according to Hicks. As such, he has taken great care in balancing store experience and customer service with the level of product.

For Hicks, a store is far more than a transactional space. It’s a curated gallery. Every detail, from music and art to scent, reflects the brand’s identity, offering subtle cues that help customers decide if Moss’ world is the right fit for them. “There’s a far deeper psychology involved in store design today than brands have traditionally employed,” Hicks noted. This mindset is evident in the Oxford Street store’s design, where inspiration takes centre stage. The product is the star, with the retail layout serving as an elegant backdrop. The three floors each offer a distinct pace: the basement offers a relaxed area for event dressing and bespoke appointments, while the upper floors showcase the collections through tactile yet understated design details.

Stores as gallery and community spaces

“The customer and the product are at the core of everything we do,” Hicks said, thus product placement is key. “When I approach a new store, I think about the customer’s journey and how they are likely to shop with us. With our bigger casual collection, buying a linen shirt or merino knitwear is quicker than kitting out a wedding party. At the same time, I want those who initially may only come for a wedding suit, to have us in mind when they think about where to go for stylish menswear.”

Moss’ renewed focus on physical retail comes at a time of uncertainty for the sector. Despite ongoing conversations about the “death of the high street” in the UK, Hicks affirmed Moss’ full commitment to brick-and-mortar stores. “We’re approaching it from a different angle,” he said. “Buying a suit online is challenging. People aren’t as accustomed to wearing them as before, so the interaction with experts to understand fit, fabric, and styling is really important.”

Hicks has also observed a shift in the role of physical stores, which are increasingly becoming community hubs. This, he hopes, will be reflected in Moss’ refurbished spaces, where events for both consumers and industry experts could be hosted, fostering a sense of community around the brand. “I believe the high street will just get stronger, just with a different purpose,” he reflected. “Stores create a physical connection between customer and brand that’s hard to replicate online. It’s about crafting an environment people want to return to.”