A Century of Britishness: How Daniel Kearns is modernising Kent&Curwen

British heritage brand Kent&Curwen, established in 1926, has come a long way from creating ties for Oxford and Cambridge universities and inventing the first cricket jumper, to become synonymous with collegiate and sporting styles, blending British tradition with a "rebellious spirit” under the creative leadership of Daniel Kearns.

2026 marks the British brand’s centenary year, and chief creative officer, Kearns, who has previously designed for Alexander McQueen and Italian luxury label Cerruti 1881, spotlighted Kent&Curwen’s roots in dressing students, royals, rugby players, rowers and cricketers, with a catwalk showcase at the historic Westminster School in London, which sits in the precincts of Westminster Abbey.

The autumn/winter 2026 collection entitled ‘Whipplesnaith,’ drew inspiration from the elusive, secret society of the Night Climbers of Cambridge from the 1930s and Noël Howard Symington, known as Whipplesnaith, the British author and ringleader of the cult nocturnal sport, and used the group’s rebellious nature to celebrate seeing things from another perspective to add “a playful attitude” to the collegiate style Kent&Curwen has become known for.

“I’m so happy to be able to give this brand the voice it should have for its 100 years,” Kearns told FashionUnited backstage after the show. “Kent&Curwen kind of actually created a lot of preppy and other elements in our daily lives, and I think that deserves to be noticed.

“British culture is built on a staple of foundations of dress codes, but there is a reverence and the irreverence in breaking those codes. We are always trying to see through new eyes, and like the Night Climbers, I loved the idea of seeing it from another perspective.”

From Club ties to cricket jumpers: Kent&Curwen celebrates centenary

This translated into Kearns designing a collection that renewed the perspective of British classics, combining the daring Night Climbers utilitarian and collegiate style with the brand’s heritage roots to offer a playful, youthful rebellion with unexpected takes on traditional British outerwear and slim silhouetted suiting showcased on the catwalk alongside whimsical volumes and deconstructed knits.

Highlights included the classic trench reimagined in patent finishes, evoking the shimmering light of the nighttime streets, and high-collared capes and voluminous coats, reminiscent of academic robes, were styled over stripy ties, pleated skirts and knee-high socks to offer a modern and more expressive twist on the traditional preppy style.

There were also quilted jumpers, barn coats with oversized collars and pockets, ribbed knit dresses with swishy skirts, and slouchy knits, which all played out in a colour palette that emerged from midnight blue and black through muted taupes and autumnal browns, to uniform greys and soft pastels, with pops of collegiate reds, bright lilacs and burnt oranges.

As the brand continues to evolve, so does the sense of creating a “total look,” with Kearns adding in tasselled loafers, ornate brooches and delicate corsages, which are intermixed with house embroidered insignias, oversized ribbed cord bags and even clutches shaped like rugby balls to offer a playful youthfulness to the collection.

“There’s a little playfulness with the collection,” added Kearns. “The brooches represent how the Night Climbers actually climbed and put their initials on the stained glass with diamonds, while the shoes act almost like the pomp and ceremony of British culture.”

Interview with Kent&Curwen chief creative officer Daniel Kearns

Under the Chinese owner Biemlofen, Kent&Curwen is pushing forward with its expansion plans to open more stores in China, supported by the signing of the brand’s first global ambassador, Chinese singer Xin Liu, while also looking to establish a new London flagship store to re-anchor the brand in its home territory.

With Kent&Curwen celebrating its 100th anniversary, how do you balance heritage and its extensive archive with developing a fashion brand for the modern era?

For me, heritage is always the starting point. Kent&Curwen has such a rich archive rooted in British institutions, such as sport and academia, and what interests me is how you reinterpret that in a way that feels relevant today. It’s about looking at those codes and shifting the perspective slightly, making them feel lighter and more playful.

What is it about the brand’s heritage motifs, such as the Three Lions or the Rose, that still appeals?

Those motifs carry a sense of identity and recognition that’s quite powerful. They’re deeply embedded in British culture, but they’re also very graphic and adaptable. What I find interesting is how you can take something so familiar and recontextualise it so it feels fresh again.

Since the relaunch of the brand in 2023, the first couple of seasons seemed to celebrate the brand’s preppy origins. Where do you plan to take it this season?

The early seasons were about re-establishing the foundations and understanding the language of the brand again. This season feels more confident and more expressive. We’re still rooted in that collegiate world, but we’re starting to introduce a more rebellious spirit coming through, which feels important.

There seems to be a focus on a younger customer – is that intentional?

It’s less about targeting a specific age group and more about a mindset. I’m interested in a customer who is curious, who appreciates heritage but doesn’t feel bound by it.

You also added womenswear with the relaunch - how is that area of the brand developing?

Womenswear has been a really exciting part of the evolution. It’s allowed us to explore the codes of the brand in a different way. I can take elements like tailoring, knitwear or collegiate references and reinterpret them with a slightly different energy. It’s still early, but it’s growing in a very organic way and becoming an important part of the overall conversation.

What would you say are the brand’s signature pieces?

Knitwear is definitely at the heart of the brand, particularly pieces like collegiate crewnecks with the rose or lion motifs. Rugby shirts and polos are also key, as they tie directly back to the sporting heritage. And then tailoring, which really anchors the collection in that institutional, British space.

Are there plans to develop Kent&Curwen into a full lifestyle brand, adding extra categories to the apparel and accessories?

I think it’s something that can evolve naturally over time. The focus right now is on strengthening the core product and identity. But Kent&Curwen has always had the potential to extend beyond clothing, given its roots in lifestyle and institutions. It’s about making sure any expansion feels authentic and considered.

How does the sense of Britishness running through the brand resonate with the Chinese consumer, where the brand is planning to open more stores? Have you added elements to the collection to target this growing consumer base?

There’s a strong appreciation for British heritage and craftsmanship in China, particularly when it feels genuine. What’s important for me is that the collections remain rooted in an authentic British perspective.

At the same time, we’re aware of a global audience, so it’s about ensuring the product feels relevant and wearable across different markets rather than designing specifically for one.

You just announced Chinese singer Xin Liu as a global brand ambassador - why did you choose her?

Xin Liu brings a really interesting balance of strength and individuality. She has a distinct point of view and a strong cultural presence, which aligns with how we see the brand evolving. It felt like a natural connection.

Other than China, what other markets are Kent&Curwen actively targeting?

We’re looking at a number of key international markets, with a particular focus on strengthening our presence in the UK and building awareness more broadly across Europe. It’s about growing in a measured way and ensuring the brand feels consistent globally.

Are there any plans for physical retail in the UK and the US?

Yes, the UK is a priority for us, particularly as we reconnect the brand to its roots. Physical retail is an important part of that, alongside a stronger direct-to-consumer approach.

Other than the catwalk show, how else is the brand celebrating its centenary?

The show is the focal point, but the centenary is really about a broader reflection on the brand’s history and future. We're working on some exciting moments; all rooted in the same idea of revisiting heritage through a contemporary lens.