Bikkembergs relies on football trend and sneaker collab for brand revitalisation and market expansion

Bikkembergs is repositioning itself, targeting a younger generation. While this demographic may recognise the Belgian designer's name, they haven't necessarily been familiarised with his aesthetic. A strategic collaboration with the controversial Russian streetwear designer Gosha Rubchinskiy aims to not only inject new relevance into the brand but also open doors in markets like the US and Germany.

The established duo of brand director Dario Predonzan and creative director Lee Wood has kept Bikkembergs on course for nearly a decade, defying the industry's typically swift turnover rate. In an interview, they offer insight into the current brand direction and the role of football as a cultural catalyst.

You are presenting a collaboration with Gosha Rubchinskiy at Pitti Uomo. How did this come about?

Lee Wood: There are clear parallels between Gosha's aesthetic and the Bikkembergs brand aesthetic, which stems from the Dirk [Bikkembergs, founder of the brand, ed.] era, which we have honoured and continued to this day. There are strong parallels between fashion and sport in street style, the language of football and how this sporting subculture can become fashionable.

It was just a very natural connection that we found each other and decided to work on this project. Both sides have very different opinions and views. But if you read between the lines, there are also quite a few parallels. Gocha's aesthetic is extremely iconic in its way of integrating subculture with football jerseys and all these things.

The football theme is deeply rooted in Bikkembergs' DNA and is currently trending. What role does it play, aside from the collaboration, for SS26?

Wood: This collaboration is of immense importance and radiance for us. I have also incorporated it into the collection as a source of inspiration. The aim is not to take the limelight away from the collaboration, but to connect it in a more subtle way and complement it with merchandising items.

How do you implement this?

Wood: Design elements on the sole or the seams are taken up and integrated into the aesthetics of individual items of clothing, cuts or even as miniature shoe logos on T-shirts, polo shirts, shirts and outerwear. This creates a constant reminder of the deconstructed components of the shoe, which are used in other areas.

Is this football hype already reflected in your sales figures?

Dario Predonzan: We expect this development to take place next year rather than this year. The collaboration has been in the pipeline for a year and will become visible together with the comeback of football boots in the spring/summer 2026 season. But the hype around it will come earlier, probably in the last six months of this year.

Does this help in times of weakened consumer spending?

Predonzan: Over the last eight or nine years that I have been with Bikkembergs, we have tried not to stray from our core values. Our mantra is ‘Mens sana in corpore sano’, which for me means sport, dynamism and self-confidence of the people who wear this brand.

In the current situation, where the fashion industry is not booming and is suffering in various markets due to the war and all the things that are happening in the world, it is important to stay true to our core values. Sport, and football in particular, is an important part of that. So we don't deviate from that. Following others or trends, as has been seen with other brands and markets, does not lead to consistency and long-term results.

Would you go one step further and expand into sports and performance wear?

Predonzan: No, not at the moment. We had a small trial last year with padel tennis, which is trendy in some parts of the world, but it doesn't fit with our brand identity. We leave the performance to Nike, Adidas and all the big brands that specialise in it and compete with each other. The market is big, but the brands are very small. We don't want to go there.

In football, however, you were already represented on the pitch with partnerships.…

Predonzan: Dirk did a lot in the past like with Inter [Milan] and other big teams. The last one we did was the one in the World Cup in Russia with the Russian Team. It has been a very, very good experience.

Is this an approach that you will continue to pursue?

Predonzan: Never say never. We are constantly in dialogue with representatives of competitive sport, both individual athletes and teams. So there will probably be another opportunity for us to get involved in this area. However, this is not the focus of our communication strategy.

Speaking of Russia, it is a market in which you want to continue to grow. Is the collaboration with Rubchinskiy intended to support this?

Predonzan: It is not the reason we partnered with each other, but Russia has always been our second strongest market after Italy, even before Lee and I came to the brand. We have different plans of expansion there with partners that are going to open mono brand stores. We started in Rostov and will open in Moscow in July. By the end of 2027, we’re planning 20 Stores in that area.

Why are you so successful in Russia?

Predonzan: The perception of the brand in Russia is very high. It is comparable to the perception we have in southern Europe of a kind of “super-premium” brand.

Are further openings planned outside this region?

Predonzan: We are expanding in Morocco, where we are already represented in Casablanca. Three more stores are about to open. We are also opening stores in Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan.

Which other markets are also performing well?

Predonzan: Eastern Europe is generally very strong and Spain is also quite a good market. From SS26, we will also be focusing on Northern Europe. Germany will be the main target, but economically it is a very difficult market due to shop closures.

In footwear, we are active in the US, but it is still a very small market for us and currently the big department stores are suffering a lot. So it's probably not the right time, but we want to be there. The co-operation with Gosha will also likely help to win back some of these shops like Saks or Nordstrom.

We need to join forces to be strong and get results in new markets like the US, because you have to be very well organised, prepared and sure that you have the right product for that market. If you fail once, you have to wait three or four years. Also, you never know what's going to happen with all these tariffs and ‘Mr Blonde’ [US president Donald Trump, ed.].

Uncertain times also determine the supply chains in the fashion industry. Has the conflict between Bangladesh and India for example had an impact on you?

Predonzan: We're not producing a lot in Bangladesh and only have some production in China. Most of the production is in Italy and Turkey.

Wood: In China, we only create all those technical fabrics like nylon elements and coatings. But the rest is Europe.

Predonzan: And in terms of the tariffs, as I said the US-market is still quite small. We mainly sell shoes and leather products that are ‘Made in Italy’. So for the moment, no big trouble there.

In general, which product categories are performing particularly well for you?

Predonzan: Footwear, for sure. Shoes are performing very well almost everywhere. Ready-to-wear T-Shirts with prints are always very good.

Wood: We have also had quite good success with knitwear. It's consistently been an important category for the brand for a long time. It has of course a completely different price point to T-shirts and sweatshirts, but our customers do understand that difference between quality and price.

Balancing commercial success with honouring the founder's legacy is not easy... How do you achieve both?

Wood: I don't believe it's so complicated. Everybody who is in my position may have a different method or an approach. One thing that I've always done from the outset was to be very loyal and respectful to the brand's heritage. It's not my name on the door. So I have to understand that there is a whole philosophy and a history behind the brand.

In today's current climate, next to being a designer, you have to be a bit more of a creative manager. Creativity is something that's extremely important, but we have to be careful and we have to balance what is necessary, the merchandising and what sells well.

There's a part of it where you have to read data and analyse figures, and then there's a part where you have to have a vision towards future seasons. It's a balancing act, but it's something that actually, within itself, has quite creative rewards.

Mr. Wood, you've been at the creative helm of the brand for almost a decade now. Is there a particular gem from the archives you'd like to revive?

Wood: We have an incredible archive and it's extremely rich. When I look at the archive, it’s incredible how much fashion has changed in terms of materials and production methods. Also how much fashion has gone full circle and back to the aesthetic that is in our archive. It’s the same with the collaboration with Gosha, as we've always done that type of footwear. We've always had that type of philosophy. It's just now fashion has come back to us.

When I look at those pieces in the archive there are some incredible things. Some are just not possible today because of output costs or production methods that no longer exist. We always find a way to interpret; to take those elements, filter them through, give a nod towards those things. It's extremely important because there's very recognisable codes that are kind of intrinsic to our language that are not just about the writing: it's a stitch pattern or a certain way of cutting a sleeve - we try and keep those alive.

Looking ahead to the future, having reflected on the past. What are your expectations for the second half of the year, and how do you plan to close out 2025?

Predonzan: We closed 2024 in line with last year but we had great results in the e-commerce business. We delivered an increase of 12 percent compared to 2023. My expectation is naturally always a plus. I don't think it will be a double digit plus, but the expectations are for sure in between +0 to +10 percent compared to last year.

The main focus for the brand this year is to find a vibe to reach the younger audience. We have to get our future consumers, who today probably don't know about Bikkembergs very well. The collaboration together with the relaunch of soccer as a trend will help us get there.