FW23 runway trends buyers guide: print and patterned tailoring

In all four fashion cities, New York, London, Milan and Paris, there was a particular emphasis on the ‘anatomy of tailoring,’ with designers re-discovering the value of beautifully cut separates. Call it an antidote to three years of ‘dopamine’ dressing while working from home. The constant parade of impeccably tailored silhouettes in shades of beige and grey led to murmurings among fashion industry insiders of a new trend they named ‘quiet luxury.’ On the other hand, more than a few designers chose to show a series of two-piece suits with structured jackets rendered in a series of bold prints and patterns. Here are ten of the best.

Chanel (designer Virginie Viard)

Look 27: A jacket and matching Bermuda shorts in a patchwork of black, white, grey and pink tweed squares was topped by a sleeveless vest embellished with the iconic house camellias in pink on a black background; black boots, a silver belt and mismatched earrings completed the ensemble.

Stella McCartney

Look 3: A two-piece brown and orange window pane check suit with a double breasted six button blazer and matching knee length skirt with two side slits; brown faux fur pumps and a vegan leather chain handle bag completed the look.

Akris (designer Albert Kriemler)

Look 21: A straight legged pants suit with a double-breasted jacket: a geometric print incorporating the brand logo rendered in stripes of rust, orange and gold on backgrounds of beige and black. The model carried a matching clutch.

Etro (designer Marco De Vincenzo)

Look 23: A one button jacket and matching maxi skirt in a black brocade with white dots was overlaid with embroidered paisleys in navy, blue, white and orange. A navy and blue shirt was shown underneath. Accessories included a gold chain charm necklace, a brown leather and plaid satchel and burgundy platform Mary-Janes embellished with blue daisies.

Thom Browne

Look 17: A grey and white plaid skirt suit over a striped shirt and tie under a navy and white plaid bouclé three-button coat. Accessories included a boxy handheld bag, striped socks and spectator pointed toe Oxfords.

Alberta Ferretti

Look 34: A mixed print two-piece burgundy and red suit with a check five-button jacket and straight leg striped pants. A crossbody chain handle bag and black boots completed the look.

Louis Vuitton (designer Nicolas Ghesquière)

Look 17: A burgundy and cream Prince of Wales check two-piece suit: the jacket had a chain fastener instead of a button and the pants were straight. A black deep vee top was shown underneath with a brown cashmere scarf. The model carried a whimsical handbag representing the Louis Vuitton flagship store on the Place Vendôme and wore white patent sandals.

Alexander McQueen (designer Sarah Burton)

Look 10: A double-breasted broad-shouldered blazer and matching overlong pants were rendered in navy and white pinstriped wool. A white shirt and black leather tie were shown underneath. The model wore bold silver earrings and rings.

Saint Laurent (designer Anthony Vaccarello)

Look 32: A brown houndstooth wool two-piece suit consisted of a broad-shouldered two-button jacket with a double flap pocket and a matching above-the-knee split-front skirt. The suit was shown over a deep scoop neck black top; accessories included black sheer hose, metallic brown pointed toe slingbacks, black gloves and black sunglasses.

Antonio Marras

Look 72: A two-piece suit in Royal Stewart tartan: a broad-shouldered double-breasted six button blazer with a matching mid-length pencil skirt. A white shirt and tartan tie were shown underneath; black hose and black and tartan platform shoes completed the look.