Graduate to Watch: Sarah Ajayi from Manchester Metropolitan University

Graduate Fashion Week (GFW) has been showcasing BA degree design talent for more than 30 years and kickstarting the careers of many successful designers, including Christopher Bailey, the winner of the first-ever Gold Award, Stella McCartney, Giles Deacon, Matthew Williamson and Julien MacDonald.

At this year’s GFW, Sarah Ajayi from Manchester Metropolitan University was a double winner, scooping the coveted Gold Award and FACE Excellence Prize for her ‘Queens of the Market’ collection, featuring natural raffia, Adire African textiles, and basket-inspired forms, paying tribute to the “power, presence and grace of African market women”.

Ajayi was presented with the overall Gold Award at the GFW Gala showcase by designer Julien MacDonald, one of the judges of the prize, who said her fashion collection stood out for its “originality, craft, and creative vision” and offered “special attention to design, detail, construction, and fabric manipulation”.

Sarah Ajayi – Gold Award and FACE Excellence Prize winner at GFW 2025

FashionUnited spoke with Ajayi following her GFW wins to discuss the inspiration behind her graduate collection, the importance of spotlighting African heritage, why the Manchester Metropolitan University, her advice for future fashion students and plans for the future.

Why did you want to be a fashion designer?

I’ve always loved telling stories, and fashion became my way of doing that without saying a word. Growing up in Nigeria, I watched how women dressed with purpose. It wasn’t just clothes, it was identity, pride, and power. That really stuck with me. I became a designer because I wanted to honour that and create garments that mean something.

What was the inspiration for your graduate collection?

'Queens of the Market' was inspired by African market women. I’ve always admired their balance, physically and metaphorically. The way they layer fabrics, tie headwraps, and move through crowds with strength and grace, they’re fashion icons in their own right. I wanted to reflect that through silhouette, structure, and story.

What fabrics/techniques did you use?

I used natural raffia, Adire, and wool, all meaningful to me culturally and sustainably. My silhouette development was inspired by the Bolga baskets of Ghana — their woven texture and curved structure really informed how I approached shape. I experimented with plantain peels to figure out the shape of the basket forms, and that helped unlock my pattern cutting. I also used zigzag stitching for the seams, something I’d never used before, to reduce seam bulk and make the garments reversible. That stitch reminded me of an Adire motif called crossroads which symbolizes resilience and movement. It tied everything together.

Why was it important to share your heritage?

It was important because African stories and techniques are still often left out in global fashion conversations. I wasn’t trying to follow trends, I was trying to tell the truth. My heritage is rich, and I didn’t want to dilute that. The collection was for the women who raised me and for younger versions of me too, people who deserve to see themselves in fashion.

What does it mean to win two GFW awards?

It still feels surreal. I wasn’t expecting it, I just wanted people to feel something when they saw the work. So to win something that big, for a collection that’s so personal, really meant the world. It showed me that staying true to yourself pays off.

Did you enjoy the GFW experience?

I did. It was intense, emotional, exciting, all of it. I met people who genuinely wanted to understand what I was trying to say with my work. That felt good. It made all the stress and tears leading up to it worth it.

Why did you choose Manchester Metropolitan University?

I chose it because I wanted a course that was technical but also let me be myself. They gave us space to figure out who we are as designers, and I needed that. It helped me find my voice.

Most valuable thing you learned?

Things don’t always go to plan, and that’s okay. The weeks where nothing was working taught me the most. Research and resilience go together. You can’t just dream it; you have to fight for it.

What do you wish you knew before starting?

It’s not just about talent, it’s about endurance. You’ll cry, you’ll feel stuck, you’ll doubt yourself. I wish someone told me that’s normal. That the breakdowns are part of the breakthrough.

What are your plans now that you’ve graduated?

Right now, I’m taking time to reflect and build slowly. I want to launch a brand that’s rooted in culture and craftsmanship. I’m not rushing, I want to do it right. My goal is to build something that lasts and tells real stories. It’s not just about having a brand, it’s about building a world.

Have you done any placements?

Not officially, but I’ve learned through doing. My process involved sourcing materials in Nigeria, experimenting with new techniques, and learning from the people and places around me. That experience was just as valuable. It taught me how to problem-solve in real-time, which felt more personal than any structured placement.

Advice for someone studying fashion?

Go in with passion, but be ready to work hard. Fashion will stretch you in every way. But if your “why” is strong, you will push through. And don’t try to sound or look like everyone else. Your voice matters. Use it.