Harrods buyer: PFW AW26 offered “variety and strength”

Paris Fashion Week autumn/winter 2026, which took place from March 2 to 10, “delivered remarkable strength,” according to Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion at Harrods, who was impressed by collections from Chanel, Dior, Tom Ford, Givenchy and Hermes, as well as the “confident” debut from Antonin Tron at Balmain.

“After several seasons marked by high-profile creative debuts, this felt like a moment of consolidation and confidence,” said Longland. “Designers appear increasingly settled within their houses, and that clarity translated into collections that were both compelling and highly desirable. Overall, it was an overwhelmingly positive season in Paris, with a strong focus on product and enduring appeal.”

Harrods buyer Simon Longland shares trends and thoughts from Paris Fashion Week

What were your favourite collections this season at PFW?

This season in Paris delivered remarkable strength across the board, but a few houses stood out in particular for their clarity of vision and execution. Chanel, Tom Ford, Dior, Givenchy and Hermes all delivered collections that felt both confident and deeply resolved. Each offered a distinct perspective, yet what united them was a focus on exceptional product, pieces with real presence and lasting desirability.

What did you think of Antonin Tron’s debut at Balmain?

It was a strong and confident debut for Balmain under Antonin Tron. From the outset, his vision for the house felt clear, establishing new codes while thoughtfully reinterpreting those that are already synonymous with Balmain.

What stood out was the balance between strength and glamour. There were clean, powerful silhouettes that conveyed authority, alongside moments of unmistakable Balmain energy, pieces that carried a sense of drama and allure.

The richness of the fabrications was particularly notable, complemented by a sophisticated use of colour that added depth to the collection.

Importantly, in a season where many collections leaned into exaggerated volumes, this felt refreshingly focused on celebrating the female form, a confident, precise approach that aligns naturally with the house’s heritage while signalling a compelling direction forward.

What key trends emerged from Paris?

Several themes emerged with real longevity. Lace appeared repeatedly, but notably not confined to eveningwear—it was reinterpreted for day, often layered or styled with tailoring.

Tailoring itself was another defining element, executed with remarkable precision across multiple collections. Exceptional jackets in particular stood out as key pieces of the season.

There was also an interesting dynamic between minimalism and maximalism, often coexisting within the same collection, giving customers a broader spectrum of expression.

Some ideas, however, feel more directional and potentially harder to translate commercially, notably the exploration of latex and rubber, which appeared in several collections but remains a more niche proposition.

Where will you buy deeper?

We will always focus on the strongest expressions within each collection, the pieces that feel the most special and memorable, the ones that stay with you long after the show. These vary significantly from house to house: it may be the sharpest-cut jacket from one brand, or an embellished dress from another.

What matters is that these are the pieces that capture the essence of the collection and resonate emotionally with the customer.

Which show best captured the moment?

Two shows captured the spirit of the season particularly well. At Tom Ford, the atmosphere was intimate and almost voyeuristic, an exploration of seduction that felt both confident and controlled. Meanwhile, Dior delivered a beautifully uplifting show set in the Tuileries around a vast pool of waterlilies. Bathed in sunlight, it created a moment of optimism that resonated strongly with the audience.

What was it about Dior this season that impressed you?

It was an exceptional moment for Dior. This marks Jonathan Anderson’s fifth show for the house and his second for women’s ready-to-wear, and, for me, it is his most strongest collection to date. What was particularly compelling was the sense of true alignment between designer and maison; you could feel a genuine harmony in how the codes of Dior were interpreted and evolved.

The collection struck a delicate balance: romantic yet modern, soft yet assured. There was a clarity in the silhouettes and a confidence in the restraint; nothing felt forced, everything felt considered. It is at this point that a designer moves beyond introduction and begins to define a legacy within a house.

The setting itself, under a clear blue sky in the Tuileries, centred around a vast pool of waterlilies, was beautifully judged. It created a sense of calm and optimism, elevating the emotional resonance of the collection and allowing the clothes to fully breathe.

What was your must-have piece of the season?

Whatever makes your heart skip a beat. This season, however, exceptional jackets were undeniably the standout pieces. The breadth and quality on offer were remarkable, from Tom Ford to Saint Laurent, and from Dior to Chanel, as well as Celine and Alaïa. Across these collections, jackets became the defining piece, often the item that carried the strongest design statement.

Overall thoughts on the season?

It was an exceptional Paris season. Many designers delivered their very best work, presenting collections filled with pieces that inspire genuine desire. Whatever your personal aesthetic, minimal or maximal, this is a season where wish lists will likely grow longer than expected.