LFW AW26: Julien Macdonald and Joseph return to a packed schedule

As the global fashion industry turns its attention to London, there is a renewed focus on British designers and brands under the leadership of Laura Weir, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, for the February edition of London Fashion Week, with the return of Julien Macdonald, Phoebe English, and Joseph to the schedule.

Running from Thursday, February 19 to Monday, February 23, London Fashion Week will feature 90 designers and organisations, marking an 11 percent increase compared to last February, as the BFC continues its "designer-first" strategy, waiving show fees for designers presenting physically on the main schedule.

This season, LFW will feature 41 catwalk shows, 20 presentations, 4 appointments, 33 events and 19 digital activations, including Burberry, Emilia Wickstead, Erdem, Richard Quinn, Labrum London, and Simone Rocha, as well as Chet Lo, John Richmond and Masha Popova returning to the schedule. There will also be a chance to see the new director for Joseph from creative director Mario Arena, who joined the premium label in 2024 from JW Anderson.

There are also a host of newcomers, including sculptural womenswear label Agro Studio, accessories designer Clara Chu, Afro-contemporary menswear brand Gravalot, womenswear label Liberowe, craft-led Indian brand Raw Mango, London-based fashion label Selasi, founded by multidisciplinary artist and photographer Ronan Mckenzie and Leo Prothmann.

Julien Macdonald to return to LFW

The biggest addition to this season’s schedule has to be the return of Welsh designer Julien Macdonald, who is showcasing for the first time in three years following his brand's liquidation in 2023. The highly anticipated return will take place at The Shard, marking the first time a catwalk show has been held at the iconic London landmark, and as it will be on the 69th floor, it will also be one of the highest fashion shows ever held in the capital.

In an interview with FashionUnited, Macdonald said his return will add “much-needed glamour” to the London Fashion Week schedule, as it will be a celebration of “women and femininity”.

Macdonald added: “This collection’s starting point was The Shard, it’s strong, powerful and confident, and stands out in the London skyscape - just like the women I dress. It also represents the New World being built around us, like Qatar, Abu Dhabi and Dubai, the new luxury customer.”

William Costelloe to present first collection for Paul Costelloe

All eyes will also be on William Costelloe, who debuts as creative director of Paul Costelloe following the passing of the brand's eponymous founder and his father in November 2025. Appointed in January, Costelloe was previously design director at the London-based brand for the past seven years, working closely with his father on the development of the brand’s seasonal catwalk shows.

On Instagram, the brand shared an update from the designer stating his first collection, which opens LFW on February 19, would carry forward “the house codes of craftsmanship, confidence and modern elegance”.

"I'll have his words in my head and feel his great hands on my shoulders. He will always be my inspiration," added Costelloe.

LFW more than just catwalk shows

Under Weir’s direction, LFW is continuing to evolve as a flexible and innovative platform, with many designers this season opting to embrace more “intentional formats that suit their business needs,” explains the BFC.

This includes designers such as Phoebe English, 16Arlington, Chopova Lowena, Kazna Asker, Stephen Jones Millinery, Malone Souliers, and Milan-based Fiorucci, opting to showcase presentations, while Talia Byre is hosting a screening, and London-based womenswear label A Letter, founded by designers Matt Empringham and Freddy Coomes, formerly known as Aletta, is presenting an exhibition for its autumn/winter 2026 collection, which will also be open to the public.

Other designers creating their own retail-led environments, blurring the lines between show, store and cultural space, including Chet Lo who will spotlight Asian makers through a dedicated market, while London-based luxury fashion label KNWLS, founded in 2017 by Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault, is skipping the traditional catwalk show this season to unveil an immersive retail space that will be “part store, part exhibition, and part community hub” celebrating fashion, art, food, music and literature.

British designer Nicholas Daley will also be hosting a pop-up showcase featuring his spring/summer 2026 collection, bringing together craft, design and community, while Swedish retailer H&M is returning to LFW with an immersive townhouse takeover.

Jewellery on display at LFW

With the jewellery sector identified as a key category for growth in 2026, LFW features a host of jewellery brands and designers on the schedule. This includes London-based jewellery and accessories brand Completedworks, known for sculptural jewellery and ceramics, which has previously showcased theatrical presentations featuring actresses Joanna Lumley, Dianna Agron and Lily Cole. The AW26 show will also debut the brand's first-ever sneaker design in collaboration with Japanese sportswear brand Asics, where founder Anna Jewsbury has embellished the sneakers with mismatched gems, pearlescent bows, and floral elements.

There will also be several emerging brands, including NewGen recipients, The Ouze, founded by self-taught jeweller Toby Vernon, and Octi, a jewellery label focused on sculptural, tactile pieces hand-carved from recycled metals.

There will also be a BFC jewellery showcase with a curation of pieces for sale from a selection of BFC Foundation designers and BFC Designer Members, taking place at Dover Street Market.

BFC launches the LFW Designer Showcase

This season, the BFC is launching the LFW Designer Showcase, a new platform designed to connect designers directly with local and international industry experts, “shifting towards purpose-driven creativity with real commercial outcomes”.

Running from February 20 to 23, the showcase at 180 Strand will spotlight a cohort of designers at the “forefront of British fashion,” including Aaron Esh, Ahluwalia, Bleue Burnham, Clio Peppiatt, Clothsurgeon, E.W.Usie, Johanna Parv, Nicholas Daley, Steve O Smith, Talia Byre and Thevxlley.