LFW: Eudon Choi autumn/winter 2023

London-based South Korean designer Eudon Choi continues to focus on creating a timeless, staple wardrobe with his autumn/winter 2023 collection opting for modern, tailored pieces subtly punctuated by historical and artistic references.

This was a collection “driven by ambition to create garments that are long-lasting in both style and endurance,” explains Choi in the show notes, juxtaposing contemporary, relaxed silhouettes with sartorial functionality and comfort.

It was elegant and timeless, with touches of luxe sportswear, with intricately cut blazers, shirtdresses, beautifully draped floor-length gowns, lamb Nappa leather jackets with matching skirts, luxe bombers in Venetian wool, utility trench coats, and wool jumpers with slit detailing.

Choi also offered a colour palette filled with muted tones borrowed from Lucas Cranach’s portrait (c. 1540s) with deep hues of indigo blue, walnut brown, and caramel, offset with pops of rose pink and scarlet. He also opted for regal, warm wintery fabrics, such as pure cashmere, brushed jersey, wool, tweed, and leather, alongside corduroy, denim, and stripe detail ribbing.

AW23 also saw the continuation of his collaboration with Korean-owned French label Louis Quatorze, a Korean-owned French label, with most of the looks paired with bags. Choi stepped away from the bold shapes of previous collections and presented leather bags featuring elaborate Tudor influences with slit detailing, stud embellishments and structured panelling quilting.