Resort SS23 buyer’s guide: ten key items

At the high end of the U.S. fashion industry, it was once a commercial necessity for designers to deliver a 'cruise' collection. Delivered into stores at the end of the year, it was for wealthy clients who would travel to warmer climes between December and April and needed fresh looks in lighter fabrics.

Over the years, most major labels continued the tradition, because this particular delivery could serve a few different purposes. It could refresh a winter collection; it could give a glimpse into the next season or it could simply provide warm weather clothes during the winter season, in the old tradition. Call it what you will, Cruise, resort or pre-spring, here are the ten key items any retailer should stock for the Resort 2023 season.

1. A corset

Several designers including Christopher John Rogers and Proenza Schouler featured the type of structured corset made popular by Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westward a few decades ago. Nicky Zimmermann’s collection was filled with the kind of silhouettes made popular in the 1950s and 1960s. Look 12 was a structured strapless corset top and matching full skirt with a yachting print motif.

2. A printed pant suit

Following their success this year at the retail level, pants suits in bright colors or in an all-over print go forward into next year’s resort season. Frederick Anderson’s version for look 14 of his collection, was a matching jacket and slim flared pants in a blue and green no-print print.

3. A black leather jacket

Ever since Marlon Brando famously wore one in the 1954 film ‘The Wild Ones,’ black leather motorbike jackets have come to signify youthful rebellion. Versace, Givenchy and Louis Vuitton all showed versions. Derek Lam 10 Crosby included a traditional version embellished with quilted elbow pads and silver studs.

4. A denim maxi skirt

Over the past few seasons, rugged denim skirts, especially in longer lengths have made a comeback. They were shown by N21 and Burberry. Designing for Tod’s, Walter Chiapponi’s look 2 was rendered in a light blue and white wash with frayed edges and trim.

5. A tweed suit with a mini skirt

Over the years, many designers have riffed on the traditional Chanel suit. At Carolina Herrera, Wes Gordon showed a pink, white and gold tweed suit with a collarless ruffle trimmed jacket and matching split side mini skirt. Dsquared2, Giambattista Valli and Derek Lam followed suit.

6. Cargo pocket pants

Utilitarian pants with cargo or bellows pockets showed up in several collections including those of Diesel and Dsquared2. Nicola Brognano toughened up the Blumarine image, giving it a Y2K edge. For look 26 the designer teamed utilitarian multi pocketed cargo pants with a feminine cold shouldered frilly top, both in cream.

7. Baggy denim jeans

In recent seasons, denim jeans have adopted a silhouette made popular in the ‘nineties. This was the case with look 3 of the MM6 Maison Margiela resort collection for 2023, which consisted of a soft wash extra-long baggy legged jean with a drawstring waist.

8. A Lurex knit

At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena showed several sparkly knits made popular in the 1970s. Look 3 was a Lurex knit bra top matched to a maxi skirt with a side split in cream and gold stripes. Sparkly knits could also be seen at Tory Burch, Proenza Schouler, Christopher John Rogers and Carolina Herrera.

9. A statement shirt

Many resort 23 collections, including those of Diesel, Rosetta Getty and Sacai, showed white or striped shirts that in some way or another, made a statement. In amongst the tweed suits and printed dresses at Chanel, Virginie Viard presented a series of items rendered in a striped cotton, embellished with the House logo and the numbers of its fragrances. Look 55 was a long-sleeved button through shirtdress with a floral yolk and white collar.

10. Bermuda shorts and jorts

‘It’ girls have made ‘jorts’ (knee-length jean shorts) and Bermudas popular again. At Etro, the second look shown consisted of a jacket and matching knee length shorts in a psychedelic print.